YPVS TONE

In the Yamaha Two Stroke Twins book I have it lists in the back for the YR2 as gearbox oil qty as 1.2 Litres but doesn't say if this is for a bone dry case or not. As og has said have a look near the oil filler as you may find the amount on the case.

The only data I have doesn't actually list float height only fuel level which is listed as 6.8 - 7.8mm above the lines marked on the bottom of the float chamber by attaching a piece of clear hose to the drain hose union on the bottom of the float chamber and undoing the drain screw and holding the hose vertical by the lines.

On the standard Yamaha reeds there is a corner cut off on one side by the screw holes as OG has mentioned is to do with correct fitting which when you reasemble you make sure is on the same side as the cut off in the reed stop.If you look at the reeds from the side you will see they are slightly concave and if you fit them upside down you will get a slight gap at the front between the petal and the reed block. I had this on my RD350LC2 as I couldn't get an even tickover and found one of the reeds was fitted wrong resulting in a gap. Also it does also mention in the Genuine Yamaha manuals to put a drop of Loctite on the screw threads to prevent the screws coming undone.

When I worked for a Yamaha dealer in the 80s we had an XJ750 in where the pattern paper type oil filter had broken up blocking the oil ways to the cylinder head and causing the camshafts to seize in the head which meant a new head and camshafts. And some of the pattern filters used to be more expensive then the Genuine Yamaha ones.

Just done a search on google and a couple of sites list as XT125X 2005-2009 as Front = 14 Tooth and Rear = 48 Tooth but if on original sprockets best to count to double check.

There should be a lock washer behind the nut that you bend against the nut once it has been tightened.

Personally I would try and clean out the stock carb. The only problem with fitting aftermarket carbs is that you have to start from scratch getting the jetting right. If I remember right the 80cc chappy had a vacuum operated fuel tap so you might find a pipe running from the tap that connects to the carb so when the engine is stopped with the tap in the on position it shuts off the fuel supply.

Yes you are right Cynic. Just tried it on a spare carb i've got and yes the slide will go in but as you say the slide will be virtually fully open.

As og say's I don't think you can put the slide in wrong on a single but as cynic say's it is possible to cross the slides over on the twin cylinders like the RD and LC's. Just make sure when you put the slide in that the cutaway in the slide faces back towards the airbox . When you say you removed some shims from the pump did you actually measure the minimum stroke of the pump or just take some shims out because there looked too many in there? Usually when set the pump stroke rarely needs adjusting. Also regarding the high revs make sure the throttle cable hasn't come out of the junction box.

Definately not right as the fuel should only flow in the On and Reserve position with the engine running. You could perhaps find another s/h tap or find a conventional tap like an early aircooled RD250/400 one as long as the distance from the holes is the same I can't see a problem. Remembering to blank the stub on the inlet manifold.

Are you saying that the fuel still flows with the tap in the ON or RESERVE positions ?

No you just prise out the gasket and the restrictor should lift out then make sure you put the gasket back in.

Have you checked the air cleaner to make sure it isn't dirty. Also do you know if it still has the restrictor in the downpipe which was fitted to reduce the output for young riders.If you take the exhaust off and look in the flange where it bolts to the cylinder the restrictor is like a large washer with a reduced hole in it under the exhaust gasket. My nephews have a PW80 and with the restrictor in it won't rev out and stutters.

I did suggest this in your previous topic !! "Sounds to me like a fueling issue if you say you sprayed carb cleaner in plug hole and it run. Check to make sure jet in floatbowl for choke is clear . Try blowing down hole "B" in oldgitonabike's picture you should be able to feel air coming out of "A". If not the choke jet is blocked. Try soaking in carb cleaner or if it is stale fuel which has gummed up boil a kettle and pour hot water in the float bowl and let it stand for a while and see if this melts the gum, making sure you rinse out floatbowl with carb cleaner afterwards. DON'T start poking bits of wire down the jet or you will enlarge the jet" And Your Reply "I did clean the entire carb with carb cleaner, and sprayed in every hole I could find. so item "A" is clear. I did poke a fine wire through the jet to unplug it, but I doubt I enlarged it. Tony

Get some 10w40 grade from your local bike shop and make sure it has "Jaso Ma" spec on the back which means it is compatible with wet clutches

Will you get them printed with the Tuning Fork logo the right way up ?

Looks like the same bike minus the lights as featured in the film "Little Fauss and big Halsy" starring Robert Redford that I've got on video.

I've got a Yamaha service data book that says TW125 1999 and onwards Pickup coil Resistance 656 - 984 ohms across the Red and White Wires Source Coil (CDI Charge Coil) Resistance 624 - 936 ohms across the Brown and Green Wires Yamaha never used to give any figures for the CDI unit even in the Genuine workshop manuals so it was a case of making sure the other tests checked out OK before replacing the CDI Hope this helps. Tony

Try draining the carb floatbowls first in case you have water in there.

I would say item 16 on diagram

Have you checked the air filter to make sure its clean and not over oiled and checked the air intake is not restricted?

XJ900 1985 - 1992 Fork Oil 276ml per leg of 10W fork oil.

On is straight down at the 6 oclock position, reserve is straight up at 12 oclock and prime is at the 3 oclock position. Remember prime is only used to fill the carbs. In normal use you leave the tap in the ON or Reserve positions.

You might find this helpful http://www.scooterhelp.com/RZ_help/restorations/brakes.front.master.html Tony

If it is the same as on my old 1980 RD200DX I had which I think it is you should find a window on the outside of each carb . What you do is open the throttle fully and look in the window and adjust the cable using the adjuster on the carb top until you see the line of the slide in the centre of the each window doing this before you set the throttle stop screws.If you strip the carbs to make sure the jets are clear "especially the pilot jets" make sure you connect the pipe between the carbs that joins the choke system and you reconnect the oil pump feed pipes on the carbs and you get the throttle slides in the right carbs with the cutaway on the slide facing back towards the airbox.