YPVS TONE

The carbs on the RD200 and the RS200 are different. The Yamaha data book I have says the RD200 uses 2 x Teikei Y20P carbs and the RS200 uses a single Mikuni VM24SS .

It may be also that the carbs have become gummed up with stale fuel if you say it ran ok before you put it away. Did you drain the carbs before storing ? You could try draining the carb float bowls to get some fresh fuel through to see if that makes a differance. Is yours the CDI ignition model or does it stil have points ?

Regarding the rough running and popping the first thing I would do is get the valve clearances checked. I helped a mate check an old XS1100 a few weeks back with the same symptoms popping back through the inlet of no 4 cylinder. When we checked the clearance on no 4 inlet you couldn't even get a 11/2 thou feeler gauge in between the shim and camshaft. After changing the shim to put it to the required clearance it ran a great deal better with no popping. You can check the clearances yourself if you have a manual but you do need a special tool to hold the valve bucket down to remove the shim. If you have a Yamaha dealer near you perhaps see how much they would charge to do them.

Seem to remember the early SR250 had fairly high bars as standard anyway or has yours got low bars on it. Can you post a picture?

I know some people use the red grease to lube the seals but you only need a very fine smear as if you use too much it sits in the seal grooves in the caliper and stops the seals from sitting in the grooves properly. I don't think brake fluid will be a problem as it is in fact what is recommended in the Genuine Yamaha Service manuals to clean and lubricate internal parts of the caliper using new brake fluid and when you think about it the seals will be in contact with it anyway.

Hi mick600 I've got a Yamaha Technical bulletin about these O rings fitted to Sumitomo callipers and it gives part numbers depending on what caliper is fiitted. You say they are 4 pot calipers. If the 4 pistons in the caliper are all the same size it gives the part number as # 90891-85001-00 x 2 per caliper. If the 4 pistons are two different sizes it gives the part number as # 90891-82715-00 x 2 per caliper. You can give a Yamaha dealer a call to see if they are still available. The bulletin also give a torque setting for the bolts that hold the two halves together for the 4 pot calipers as 2.5 - 3.3 kgf-m. It also say's : 1. DO NOT clean internal parts with a solvent as this may damage rubber parts. Use fresh brake fluid. 2. Ensure you use the correct " O " ring for each caliper type. 3. Apply a small amount of silicon G40 grease part number # 90890-SG40M to the "O rings" 4. Upon assembly apply new brake fluid to the first 2 or 3 threads of the calper bolts which hold the two halves together. 5. Locate the "O" ring in the groove which is in one half of the caliper. 6. Make sure that the "O" rings are properly seated before the 2 halves of the caliper are fitted together. 7. Tighten cailpers to the correct torque. IMPORTANT The above information only applies to machines fitted with SUMITOMO brake calipers and DOES NOT relate to any other makes of calipers. Hope this helps .Tony

I think you will find the round housing with the oil pump and throttle cable around it is as you say supposed to rotate. I remember looking at the one on the DT125MX I had and it looks like as you open the throttle the round part in the middle rotates to take up the slack in the two cables then locks in position by small " Teeth" around the outside". Are both bottom oil pump and throttle cables free and not seized ? I seem to remember you can disconnect both cables from the junction box to see if they're free. It mentions the junction box in the Haynes manual for the DT125R and says NOT to lube with grease or oil but to use WD40. Tony

I've got a Yamaha technical information book that lists two Genuine 25 KW restrictor kits for the XJ600 S/N. The one listed for the 1992-1995 XJ600N/S is part number # KIT-XJ60S-25-KW and mentions 4 x Inlet port plates that go between the inlet point joint rubbers and the cylinder head and 1 x throttle stop screw and 1 x throttle stop screw spacer that goes between numbers 2 and 3 carbs. The one listed for the XJ600N/S 1996 and onwards is listed as part number # KITXJ6SN-25-96 and mentions 4 x carburettor slide restrictors that go on the top and bottom of the carb diaphragm springs. Tony

You can fit a later type shock from the F2 models which I have on my 83 LC2 which is probably the cheapest route and does away with the toothed belt to adjust the preload but is still adjustable with a "C" spanner or Hagon list an aftermarket one for £300.00. Has the damping gone on yours or is it leaking. Tony

Are you saying it's running like this with the choke on ? If so you will find this is normal as the choke is only meant for cold starting and as soon as the engine is warmed up you should be taking the choke off.

An easy check to see if it is charging is to have the bike facing a wall in the dark, start the bike with the lights on and see if the lights get brighter as you rev it. Or if you have a digital multimeter connect the leads to the positive and negative on the battery i.e black lead to negative and Red to positive with meter set to 20 DC volts and start bike. When revving to 2000rpm or above you should be getting 14.5 Volts + or - 0.5 volts. How old is the battery, is it topped up with distilled water to the line ? If it is the CDI model don't run the bike with the battery disconnected as you will damage the Reg /Rectifier unit. Tony

I think you will find this is correct.I seem to Remember the Sr125 and Sr250 oil filters were like this and as Drewpy say's the filter is held in place by the cover once it is screwed up. http://www.gileraspares.co.uk/spares/epc2.asp?ModelID=9738&pageID=7&m=YAMAHA+XVS125+2002+OIL+CLEANER&uid=0

Have a look here ; http://www.gileraspares.co.uk/spares/epc2.asp?ModelID=9738&pageID=5&uid=0 Shows a single crankshaft with a sprocket on each end driving two seperate camchains to drve the seperate camshafts. Tony

Have a look by the oil filler plug on the RH crankcase cover and you should see something like i.e 300 cm which will be the qty you fill with after comepletely draining the transmission oil. Seem to remember there is a drain bolt with a 12mm spanner size bolt with a cross head screwdriver slot in the middle of the bolt at the very bottom of the RH crancase cover. After draining refill with a motorcycle specific 10w/40 oil with the amount it says on the case i.e 300cm which is the same as 300ml. Seem to remember there is no way of checking the level on these so you just drain it out and refill with the specified amount. Tony

Found this, perhaps you can check too see if you have everything installed correctly. https://www.motomummy.com/SD183.pdf Tony

From memory I don't think you have to remove number 13 totally to adjust. Seem to remember to adjust cam chain you remove LH engine cover, turn engine over to set piston to TDC on the compresson stroke (with both valves closed). Undo and remove domed nut #16, just loosen nut #15 and loosen screw #13.This lets the spring #10 take up any slack in the camchain. Retighten screw #13 to lock it against #8 to maintain tension in camchain, retighten locknut #15 and replace domed nut #16. Tony

Are you saying you've left the tps disconnected ? If so this is why the tacho is doing this as 3000 on the tacho is an error message for the tps.

When locking, have you got the handlebars fully to the left and pushing the key in while turning it from off to lock ?

Oh No Not another prick who's got more money then brain cells or who's had everything bought for him.

As mentioned above DO NOT use a car battery charger as these charge at a much higher Amperage and will ruin a small bike battery. Just had a look on a couple of sites and it looks like the battery for the SR125 is only 7 amp. So you want a charger that charges at 1/10th of this i.e 0.7amp or 700 milliamps. There are some on ebay that are rated at 500 milliamp or 0.5amp so these would be ideal. Certainly do not use one over 1 amp for your battery. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6v-12v-MOTORCYCLE-TRICKLE-BATTERY-CHARGER-CAR-QUAD-ATV-/270773934118?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3f0b625826

I think you need to ask them why they think it would take 2 hours. I serviced a couple of these back in the 80s when they came out and apart from taking off the legshields and the LH engine cover I seem to remember it was pretty straightforward,similar to the Honda C50.

That oil should be fine as it has JASO MA in the spec which means it is suitable for bike wet clutches. You shouldn't really loose any oil when doing the valve shims but you will when you do the clutch plates so best to drain the old oil out, do the plates then replace the oil. Tony

If the speedo is cable operated you could try this .Then I think you read the KMH increments as MPH. Tony http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Mechanical-Speedo-Converter-KMH-MPH-Top-Fit-/270783017607?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3f0becf287

Seemed to remember there is a domed nut on the LH side of the cylinder head you undo and take off with a locknut underneath which you just loosen then loosen the cross head screw then retighten screw and locknut. Can,t remember if this is done with engine running or with the engine at TDC on the compression stroke. Does the Haynes mention this ? Tony

Personally I would wait to see if the one from pgm is right. If you do decide to drill the carb just make sure that the hole is fully clear of swarf befrore you press in the spigot .