Ryan09

But their underpowered and a heavy, imo could of been a better bike espcially for the asking price.

If you want to check Lois pick up some older copies of TBM she writes (did not sure any more) in there of her trips and has a book out, interesting read. Serows are good bikes aswell, nice and easy to ride.

OR if you think about looking at DRZ's just forget it and look at the CCM 404, you will never look back, crf rad shrouds (so its a good looker), drz-e motor (reliable but more powerful than the 's' version), wp suspension front and back. (same as KTM's) Amazing pieces of kit, will go all day on the trails and will be good in enduros/rallies. Great for a starter to off roading and theres loads of help out there for them if you need answers to anything. Prices are good aswell compared to WR's and drz's so good value for money also!

Looks like you now own a new bike again thats amazing how that bike is still chugging along and looks in amazing condition to! Well done

How fars your commute? I honestly do not think the wr would like it much (otherwise id have one in the garage!) The later WR's have ali frames 06 on i think? The earlier ones the blue steel frame. Not sure about the difference of the engines but the ali framed one is ment to be a smoother ride. WR250r is more road orientated/trail bike so heavier and a bit underpowered. Soo enough of that... if your going to do a commute in there aswell id personally look at the wr400, little bit older but still an awesome bike and more reliable just hard to find a good one. HTH

I know it wouldnt of got an mot because the plate was too small aswell but it was too new to worry, thats for the new owner to think of now. (was an Acerbis enduro type light) But on my CCM the DRC Edge 2 looks like a stock item but really tidy and has a number plate light so would 100% pass an mot. Also its not new for people to change their bikes a little for the mot....

My DT used to have a tail tidy on, was more horizontal than that 1st image and i rode it for over 2 years with no problems at all... didnt iilluminate the no. plate either, would recomend the drc edge 2, perfect aftermarket light

On all the bikes iv had iv only had to push them in towards the seat and they come undone easily, u just have to get it going.

You probably can but i cant see the point to be honest, whats wrong with the standard one?

Iv got maxxis goldspeeds on my CCM BUT i think they might catch being on a DT being 160/70 rear and 120/70 front... why not replace them with what you have? Iv known people that have had the chain rub but have just let the chain make its on groove in the tyre ... im not sure id recomend it though. Iv got a feeling that the distanzia 150/60 will rub. http://www.tyresite.com/product.asp?numPageStartPosition=1&P_ID=862&strPageHistory=cat&strKeywords=&strSearchCriteria=&PT_ID=46 Theres 120/80's on there and they would be fine. Just saw the link barwell put and reminded me of bt92's which are good dual compund tyres

+1 wouldnt bother messing with the stock header, dep headers are so much nicer if you can afford it and also saves a lot of hassle, they also dont get as hot which is nice,

Avon distanzia's are okay for light green laning but this time of year all teh lanes tend to be boggey and nasty also having a large front disc means you might dink it on rocks etc, might be worth looking for some off road wheels?

If its fully deristricted then it should wheelie of the power in 1st and with the clutch in 2nd, a good tug on the bars always helps too

Why not just remove the baffle? You must have the standad can right just for MOT's?

So far so good, looks better than i thought it would after reading your 1st little bit of write up

ooooo i think i caught the wrong end here, thought he might of wanted to go have some fun in the snow aswell otherwise no point.

I used to do a 30mile round trip to college every day no matter the weather on my dt, loved every day of it I say go for it

Good idea, try putting knobblies on your sm wheels, i know that mitas make a 17" co2. Looks fun and seen them on r1's....

Modifying a DT 125 (100% certain on 2004 + models) The first thing to do is to Earth the black cable with the green stripe going through it, you can either remove it from the connector block and earth or (what I did) crimp another piece of cable and add it to the adjacent side of the connector block and then earth it (I used the bottom yoke). This is probably the most noticeable mod I done to my bike and it’s completely free, The only other thing I done to my bike was adding a full DEP exhaust system which I found cheapest from here: http://www.adrenalin...D-2004-581.aspx I didn’t re-jet after putting this on either as my spark plug was a nice goldy/brown colour although some people have needed to re-jet (depends what climate and altitude, if you live in but the UK I wouldn’t bother). Some people say about modifying the power valve to give more top end. This didn’t appeal to me as I’m more interested in acceleration and country back roads so I left this alone. If any previous owners had adjusted it and wedged it open you’ll probably find that all they’ve done is tightened the power valve cables so the servo motor won’t be able to turn the PV (power valve) which could have burnt it out or it may have been disconnected completely. To reset this all you need to do is just slacken them off a little bit and follow the image below. (Borrowed from DT125r.net) Any engine parts such as piston kits, gudgeon pins and cir clips etc for top end and bottom end rebuilds I purchased my parts from: (Prices seemed reasonable to me) http://www.pjme.co.u...aha_DT125R.html That’s all the ‘basics’ to get the most noticeable power performance from you DT, Hope it helps. Theres also loads of other bits for older DT's here: http://www.dtr125.net/

Okay np.

Hasnt this been done before? Il have a little dig through your archives

I got my parts from these guys: http://www.pjme.co.uk/acatalog/Yamaha_DT125R.html Very helpful over the phone too

I know for certain the front wheel wont fit straight on as youl need a different brake caliper bracket as off road wheels have smaler discs. I dont think the sm has a shorter swingarm so the back wheel should go straight on as everything else is the same, You'll also find that theres not as much travel on your forks to the RE model, the front fender might also hit the front wheel, Most people are always looking at doing the complete opposite to you, I wouldnt bother unless you fancied some green laning to as knobblies wont make it any easier in the winter.

When he said 4t'ing i think he ment a technical term, I supose it could be your reed valves being stuck open, i didnt think of this, if its the float bowl wouldnt it be a pig to start and fload the carb?

My bike used to rattled... once it seized. I done the top end rebuild which took most of the piston slap away but there may have been a little play in the crank (irrelavant here). Was it done or did he say it was done, (2 difrent things).