Ryan09

Looking good, the fuse box made me laugh =)

Comfy looking seat!

Id book it now for your birthday if i were you. It cost me about £300 ( 5 years a go now) to do 2 days training and then the test on my 125. Then youre restricted to 33bhp for 2 years but i just kept the dt and after the 2 years what ever you fancy =)

As standard Yamaha claim 65mph, mine (an re) done 65mph as standard as well. With the wire earthed and a dep it saw 80mph but no more than that.

Check all the simple stuff, try starting it again with the jump leads to see if it will fire up again. Could be battery/rectifier.

Looking sharp Great little bikes.

Very nice bike, my dad had one when i was little. Id keep it stock personally, bit of a classic now.

Nice bike, looks 'chunky'. Id be tempted to cut the rear fender down a bit, expose that rear wheel a bit more. Out of interest does the speedo cable fail the tyre when turned full lock right? Personally id route it up the fork leg if its long enough, would look that bit tidier. Its cool though.

As said before, probably too much oil in the bike so it gets dumped in the air box as the oil pressure goes up when the bike gets warmer. When was the last oil change? Did you do it yourself? If so did you fill it right to the 'full' mark? Ideally you want it at half on the sight glass/ dip stick.

Nice!

I fitted aftermarket wrap around type ones, was fine. these: http://www.amazon.co.uk/KTM-Handguards-Black/dp/B005KJYU20 Made by KTM but fit any bike and look really nice. Come with fat bar clamps as well as standard so will definitely fit your bars.

I wouldnt clean an oil filter? Never have as i cant see why you would bother when they are so cheap to replace. Im doing a service on my r6 at the moment, bought a K&N filter and its fine, was £10 delivered.

As title says, would anyone be up for going to this? Im going with my brother but it would be cool to put names to faces as well. http://www.nsra.org.uk/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=34&Itemid=29

Yeah it looks like Yamaha had a batch of bad batteries, i guess its better to know its most likely that than something major. No worries.

I guess you could try Venhill? They might be able to help you out.

You may have to flick through the trip meter, clock etc to find the code. It is usually a 2 digit number and is stored untill you delete it. (I take back what i said earlier, theres an error code for side stand switch sorry) Also do you let it go through its cycle before you hit the starter button? I found this thread on another forum, sounds like the same problem: http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=243951

+2

start a new thread?

Nothing wrong with air cooled!

I used to use ac10's on the rear and a mitas ef-08 on the front, i really liked them for trail riding but on the road they were a bit sketchy until worn in. Im just not a fan of trailwings, (just my opinion)

The stand switch could be faulty i guess but i thought it may have started at least? Its simple to bypass so its worth a try. But why did the bike start with jump leads attatched?

Carbon build up can cause excessive heat, when was the top end last checked?

Try the fuel directly into the cyclinder, it should start for a couple of seconds. At least you know the cylinder side of things is fine if it starts. My sister has a Gilera Dna and had a similar problem to this. I ended up completely stripping it and it turned out the vaccum hose had slightly melted on the exhaust so the fuel wasnt being sucked through properly. The fuel line had fuel in it going to the carb but because there wasnt enough of a vaccum there wasnt enough being drawn through to run the bike.

Avon Distanzias are a good on/off road tyre.

If the yellow engine lights coming on it wont be the side stand switch. An error code should be displayed on the dash, this will tell you what the problem is. Any mods to the bike?