rikernumber1

It's not an XJ, but I'm selling my Radian on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160418063915&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT

OK - I do have a problem. Managed to get it to start after a lot of coaxing. However, it won't idle. The adjustment screw on the back of the carb doesn't seem to do any good - I think the choke is making some difference, but not enough to keep it going. I haven't touched the setup on the carbs at all - all I did was take them off, and replace them again. I'm guessing the system is more airtight than it was as I've replace the carb holders that look a bit perished - unless somehow I've got something wrong and it's less airtight. Any ideas?

Not a question - just an observation. I'd manage to source a replacement airbox for my Radian sometime last year - finally got round to having a go at fitting it today. Unfortunately, I discovered that when they built these bikes, they started with the airbox and then built the entire bike around it....I'd dismantled virtually everything, and after a couple of hours trying to bend ease it out I gave up - seems the only way to get that baby out is to take the engine out. I fitted new carb holders whilst I was at it. Now it won't start.....there's always tomorrow I suppose (once the battery has re-charged...)

Check the starter connections - also check it's bolted tight. However, the fact it's running hot doesn't sound good.

Hi, Looking to replace the air cleaner housing and the inlet manifold rubbers on my Radian (YX600) - US import. I know it shares some parts with XJ, FZ and FJ 600 models, but not all. I have two specific questions: 1. I know the FZ600 air cleaner box/housing is different to my YX, but can anyone say whether an XJ-600 one is the same? 2. Inlet manifold tubes: Haynes manual indicates that the YX600 and FZ600 share the same carbs - so I'm hoping that means the inlet manifold tubes are shared between them as well? Can anyone confirm this? Both of the components described above are looking a bit knackered on my Radian - looking to replace them from UK if possible. TIA

As it happened, it passed the MoT OK, so I will just keep an eye on it. Thanks for all the advice - especially about wemoto - just got a load of oil from them....

Duh! Forgot about the SatNav - that's how I checked my car..... I'll get a mount for my TT One. It's definitely a Radian speedo - they're quite distinctive and different to Xj,FZ etc.

Hi All, I recently replaced my speedo on my Radian YX600. I can't remember the rpm against the speedo on the old one, but the new one feels like it's over-reading - I can't put my finger on why. The other alternative is that the other one was under-reading. Anyway, at 6000 rpm in sixth gear, I'm doing an indicated 75 mph. Does that sound about right? I think the chain/sprockets are standard. On the other hand, it could just be me....

Looked at Mr Hayne's manual and the forks look different across the range (manual covers FZ-600, FJ-600, XJ-600, YX-600). Bugger.

Hi Guys, Thanks for this - looks like it's even stevens for re-chroming v. replacement (Radian specific). I'm guessing these forks are shared with the XJ-600 and FZ-600 (I'll look in the manual when I get home....) - I guess that widens the possibilities for spares. Anyone know if they are shared across other models?

Seen those - were already in my eBay watch list - cost is a consideration though, so not sure whether it's cheaper to re-chrome?

Hi All, MoT is due at the end of March. Advice from the last one (before I owned the bike) states that the fork seals were replaced, but won't last long because the forks are pitted. I assume that means the chrome is no longer smooth, allowing the oil to seep out of the seal (there's a slight seep now). What can I do to fix this problem in the long term? I'm guessing: 1. replace the fork(s) or 2. get the forks re-chromed Any advice welcome, particularly on approximate costs for re-chroming (if this is the answer). Bike is a 1986 Radian (US import) and I'm in the UK.

I did kill it. I noticed that when charging off the charger, only 5 of the six cells were bubbling. New battery solved the problem. And now I have a spare starter motor.....

If I remember correctly my YB100 was N-1-2-3-4 - can't remember now whether it was up or down.....anyway, I tend to work my way down the gears, partly 'cos sometimes the gearbox feels sticky and unless I come to a stop in 2nd or 1st it won't shift down to first unless I let the clutch out a little....and then stall it....and then look a prat.

What with work and Christmas, I had to leave looking at the bike again until now. I'm fairly sure the battery is OK (and I've trickle charged it once a week), and as I can hear the relay clicking over I went straight for the starter motor (also easier to get at). To test it, I simply connected it directly to the battery to see if it would turn (I tried two charged batteries) - and it didn't. I could turn it by hand, so it wasn't jammed. Logic suggests to me that a starter motor should turn if connected directly to a power source, right? However, if someone knows different please shout! TIA