Lardybloke

Hi, having trouble starting my YZF750, sometimes the starter engages but most times now it just spins out. Someone said it could be the sprag clutch? Is it going to be: A. Expensive B. Difficult C. DIY job or bike shop Please help. bl**dy thing stalled at the lights this morning and wouldn't catch, v annoying when you've just filtered past everyone to get to the front. It's a 1994 standard R model, 28K on the clock. Cheers

1984 on an old AP50 fitted with a 65 big bore kit and ported too. Thing was I didn't know it was running really rich, so when the fuel ran out, ie, onto reserve the engine would lean off and rev itself silly. Sat at a crossroads one day and it started to rev out, what did I do? Reached down for the ignition switch to knock it off in a fit of panic. Thing is, the ignition key on those is in the left hand side side panel........ So, taking my hand off the clutch, with the engine screaming, at a crosroads, in first.......... Wheelied, one handed across the road between two cars. Lucky to be alive methinks.

The YZF subframe is welded on so you can't swap them over without cutting and rewelding. The seat unit from 98 to 200 inclusive will fit the standard subframe without too much modification. Have a search on here or the net for FZR600 seat swaps as they use the same rear subframe and I know it's been done. Cheers

Fork bottoms look very similar to a YZF750, possible they would fit. If they do then that opens up the possibility of R1 calipers too.

From memory I think it is a 50mm link pipe, but any decent parts dealer should be able to look up the fitment for any given pipe manufacturer. Use a set of verniers or even a large pipe wrench to measure your original if you're buying privately.

Have you checked the sidestand switch? It'll cut the bike out if it thinks the stand is still down. Other than that check for fluid in the slave cylinder, they are very prone to leaking and as the fluid drips into the bellypan and gets burnt off by the exhaust you don't always see it.

Yeah, sorry Chris, only noticed that one after I'd pressed the button DOH!

Hi Chris, Take a tape measure to a breakers and start measuring up a YZF750 or an R6 for forks and swing arm.

Hi Ryan, I don't know if this is possible but it is worth investigating whether the YZF750R forks will fit without too much hassle, that'll give you upside downers and the option for R1 front brakes too. Also, the rear bodywork for the FZR600 is the same as the YZF and you can fit the R6 tail quite easily to that, in fact I saw an FZR with one fitted at Cadwell not long ago.

Hi, Been offered the chance of some spacers to lift the rear ride height of the standard shock, read somewhere in the Performance Bikes' set up guide that this would improve the handling. Has anyone done this and what height would you suggest adding? Cheers

Hi, Looking to move on from my '94 YZF750 onto something a: Newer, b: More powerful, and c: better for two up touring. The only thing is, I want something that will satisfy my weekend warrior aspirations and scratch as well as the YFZ. I'm not a nutter but I would like something that isn't going to be left behind. I reckon the old ThunderAce will fit the bill, anyone got any comments or experiences that would change my mind or confirm my choice? Cheers, Lard

Hi ya, I haven't done the swap but I run FZR600 bodywork on my YZF for track days. Fits better than the standard 750 panels

The early R6 and R1 seat units fit the YZF750 with minor mods so should work on the FZR600 as the bodywork is interchangeable between the two.

There's a guy on Ebay selling a YZF750 streetfighter unfinished project with a carbed R1 engine fitted. Only £400 so far which is a bargain even if you just take the engine out you would flog the rest off easily enough. I'd buy it myself if I had the cash. Even if you don't buy it, he's done the engine swap so he could offer help and advice on fitment.

Cheers for that, I'll start with those settings and see how it goes

Hi, Does anyone have a good set up for a YZF750R, MCN did a booklet a few years back which I've unfortunately lost which had this in. Any help gratefully accepted. Cheers

Anyone doing this trackday?

Hi Brian, Couple of things first; Are you sure it's the back wheel? Have you put the back wheel up on a paddock stand and spun the wheel? I only ask this as it's usually front brakes that tend to warp which could be causing the squeal. The pistons in the calipers may well have stuck, and forgive me saying this, as you're new to biking, make sure you're not riding with your foot on the back brake lever, this could overheat the disc causing it to warp. Is the bike two months old from new and did you buy it from a dealer? If yes to both, take it back, no brakes should be squealing like that in such a short space of time. Hope this helps

I got a ticket for my birthday so I'll be there whatever the weather. Any plans on meeting up?

Sorry, that wasn't meant to have capitals on. Wasn't shouting or owt.

Hi ya Bald Eagle, Have a LOOK ON eBay, always someone braking a YZF. Do you know what's wrong with yours? Cheers

Hi Brian, The R6 is designed to carry a passenger so it will be OK. If you've never had a passenger before here are some pointers, from personal experience: Before you get on the bike, talk to your friend, have they been on a bike before? If not they need to be aware of a couple of things. Firstly, how are they intending to hold on, grab handle behind them or holding onto you? First timer I would recommend holding onto you, put their arms around your waist grip one wrist with one hand and brace their other palm against the tank. This prevents their weight under braking being transferred to your arms. Secondly, he needs to keep his body in line with yours, in particular around bends, when you lean, he leans. Seen passengers try and stay upright round bends which makes the bike harder to turn. On the R6 the pillion will be sitting higher than you, which means an extra 14 stone (plus about a stone for leathers etc) which is going to make the R6 very top heavy. Be prepared and have your legs ready for pulling up and any low speed manouvres. Also, with an extra 15 stone your braking area is going to be a lot longer, allow for it and look a lot further ahead to see any problems before they affect you. Practice smooth gear changes, as you change up and down that 15 stone is going to be rocking back and forth due to inertia, personally I use clutchless changes on the way up and blip the throttle on the way down. But lastly, enjoy. Take it easy and make sure he enjoys it too, if it's his first time. Hope this helps

Hi, I've been offered a pair of front calipers from a ThunderAce, whilst they look similar to the blue dot R1 ones, are they the same? I'm afraid I don't know what year Ace they are from. Secondly, if I fit them to my YZF750, will I need new braided lines or is it a case of try it and see if they reach? Cheers

I signed into it as all my mates seemed to be raving about it. I was on it for a week before it drained the very soul out of me. How on earth people get any work done is beyond me: Dave has slapped you, do you want to slap him back? (yeah, right between the eyes) Michael has joined the Stig's fan club. (And, you're telling me because......) You've been poked (someone's eye is next) Banal, drivel, self centred, all come to mind personally.

I see no-one has mentioned Mallory. It's a great track for a first track day, easy to learn, no tricky corners and is centrally located so should be close to wherever you are in the country. Cadwell is a technical track, best left until more experience is gained or it will be a hard day and mistakes are not easily gotten away with. Tell you this though, once you've done a track day you'll be hooked.