mckenzie

As you may or may not have heard, road racing legend Robert Dunlop lost his life in a terrible accident at lastnights North West 200 practice. He was on his 250 with Darren burns following closely behind when his bike seized up entering the notorious Mathers Cross bend, Darren Durns could not avoid a collision and he hit Robert. He died later from chest injuries! Darren suffered a broken leg and concussion. This kind of tradgedy comes up every now and again in road racing and we all are aware of the risks, but when a rider is lost, itis felt all over the racing community! we offer our deepest sympathy for Roberts family and close friends. We may never see the likes of him again! also we think of Darren and hope he has a speedy recovery! we all hope for a safe days racing tomorrow!

i think its half a gallon on reserve, i got 10 miles before i had to whell it to the petrol station!!

anyone going over this year? I cant wait! last time i was there was in 2005 when Rutter cracked 201!! what a sight to behold!! So anyone have any favourites this year?

fuel tap, my ft1 had alot of dirt and rust in the tank that clogged the fuel filter on the fuel tap up, flushed the tank out and fitted a new 1 and ran fine, also clean your carb out, check that the float needle isnt sticking

my dtx will crack 85 on a good day (no headwind) all i have done is earth the wire that stops the powervalve opening at high revs which lets it rev more freely, a dep silencer and 2 teeth up on the front sprocket. i get 30mpg but depends how you want to ride the bike!! 0-60 im not sure but it seems quick enough, id say 8 seconds at a guess, drop a few teeth on the front sprocket and you could do it in 6 or less. As for reliability, mine done 11000 miles before needing a top end on standard power, Stan Stevens is doing a stage 3 tune for me to release around 30 horses at the back wheel without sacrificing reliability, although my guess is a top end ever 6000 miles or so, which you cant complain about. if you want a nippy bike for commuting and sunday blasts down the twisty b roads id go for the dtx! the supermoto wheels/tyres make a hell of a difference to the trail ones! I cant think of a better bike to start off with! i know il be riding mine when im an old coffin dodger!! lol

could be dirt in the float bowl causing the needle to stick, i had this problem on my ke100 so it would be worth stripping the carb and giving it a good clean

i was thinking the same thing, i have a dt125x, but i wanted to transplant my dt engine into the yz chassis, i want a light weight bike like the yz but dont want to have to rebuild the engine every other week, i need it for commuting aswell. im not too sure of the legal requirements to register a motocrosser but it shouldnt be that hard, just get a lighting kit and a number plate bracket!

you will have to split the cases and clean everything, people are breaking dt's all the time on ebay, you will get a dt/tzr barrel and head for under £100 if you are lucky!

6.7:1

i use silkolene comp 2 and a litre usually is good for 450-500 miles, but it all depends what way you ride the thing lol

just look for any dt switchgear, im sure it will fit, even rd125 or maybe some other yamaha models, theres loads of yamaha spares out there

Because its a 4 stroke 125, there isnt much in the way of 'deristricting' to get more power out of it you will have to change the exhaust, jet the carb, polish the ports, look for a higher lift cam, look at ignition. Remember that its a 4 stroke and cant be deristricted like 2 strokes!!

it could be similar to some dt models, there may be a reed switch which restricts its top speed to 65 or so, usually found in at the speedo

yeah i think a toggle switch between 'full power' and standard would work ok, im sure a variable resistor would work but i could end up frying the circuit!

did u feel the piston throught the exhaust port?? if its wobbling then yes you could be looking at a top end rebuild and more than likely a rebore, my top end went around 12000 miles and that was me riding it like i stole it nearly every day which was enevatable but none the less inpressive for that milage, compared to an rs or tzr etc! when mine went i could rev it up a little bit then it died and spat bits of rings out the exhaust with a few puffs and bangs, the barrel was suprisingly tidy but i went to .25 oversize (1st oversize) just to be safe, i also had the crank rebuilt and new main bearings while i was at it. you will need to strip the top end of her and get a proper look at it, find someone that does rebores (usually £20) top end kits and crank kits are cheap and can be found on ebay or wemoto or if you have the cash just send it to Stan Stevens http://www.stanstephens.com/street.htm http://www.pjme.co.uk/acatalog/Online_Part..._DT125R_19.html Im sending my barrel and head to him for a stage 3 tune this summer, Im hoping she'l crack the ton, already getting 80-85 with 2 teeth up on the front sproket and its standard power!! so it shouldnt have any trouble!! anyway stick at it and get her running again!!

if shes worried about weight and seat height would an rs250 or an rvf 400, 400 ninja or gsxr not be a better bet? still as quick through the twisties!!

make sure you havent overfilled the bottle, I did this before after rebuilding the engine and there was coolant leaking from the overflow pipe for a few runs! also check that the overflow pipe is secured to the expansion bottle! also if you havent mixed the coolant correctly or used stuff like additives and radweld it could have eat into the waterpump seals. thats all I can think of at the minute, hope you get it sorted, also what has been done to your bike regarding deristrictions?

it could be a poervalve problem, you should srip the powervalve and give it a good clean, they should be cleaned every 2000 miles or so, carbon builds up and can make them difficult to turn. Also it may be an ignition problem if its eating plugs so you should check that out, also check the carb, there may be dirt in the float bowl chamber that could result in fuel starvation, find out when it was deristricted and if the main jet was changed

I was wondering about that myself, my bike is an 06 dt125x, to stop the valve retarding after 7000 rpm you have to earth a wire to the frame which made a difference, but I wanted to put a variable resistor between the wire i have earthed and the connecting block that it origionally was wired into to see if it made a difference, but as you say theres no mention of a resistor in the circuit. The effect I was looking for was to use the variable resistor to switch from power and standard mode. Do you think it would work??

have you tried the fizzy parts site? http://www.fizzyparts.co.uk/parts/index.ph...68f13730061ab23 hope this helps

The frame and engine numbers both match so thats a good start, I dont think the frame is bent although the forks are so I hope the headstock is ok! there is no registration on the bike, so Ive contacted Yamaha uk with the frame/engine numbers and hopefully they can help

any dt engine, yz or tzr should fit, i dont think the frame has changed much so engine mounts are probably the same as in newer models

i think the reed switch on the older dt's restrict the top speed, im unsure of the wiring but you can always buy a Haynes manual if you can read wiring diagrams, also check out this site.... http://dtr125.net/

why do you want to jet the carb?? If the bike isn't tuned then theres no need, stardard jetting is reccomended by DEP if you fit even a complete exhaust system

The yzfr125 is a 4 stroke, the only way you will get more power is to open up the ports and get a good exhaust, im sure something could be done with the fuel injection aswell but I wouldnt know because I havent owned 1 but your probably talking alot of money to do this kind of work. 75 mph for a 125 is great, my dt does 85 and its only putting out around 16 horse, ive geared it for top speed though. If it was me i'd just sling a tzr engine into it