one2dmax

It looks like the main studs pass through the upper half of the block and into/through the heads. If that is the case the block won't split open without taking that stuff apart. The seca 2 (ii) was pretty much a similar engine but in a lot newer bike and more pep. I would bet it's almost or is a direct bolt in. Sean

Man, it's been so long for me on those engines I don't remember if you can. Some yamaha models you can do that with but I think most of the inline fours have "hidden" bolts under the jugs so they have to come off to get to them. I just checked the micorfiche and it sure looks like you have to remove the heads. You might be better off finding a replacement engine for the old girl. Yamaha is very good about interchagability so I would not be surprised if the seca II or the radian engines would not be a direct bolt in. Sean

Cost for shipping would probably not make it worthwhile but I can generally get parts for 20% off retail. Surely there is a dealer there that wouldn't be too terrible. Don't know if they are the same but retail for the levers for an xt250x are a little over $20 for the pair new from yamaha. Sean

The tank I have was being used to clean surgical equipment. I was lucky enough to score it from a bowling friend. I am now trying to get him to get me one of the surgical camera's they used to snake into your body. Will be great to snake into an engine to inspect the internals. Sean

There should be a code on the side of the ignition switch (label on the switch housing). Take that code to any good locksmith. If you don't have any overseas I am sure I could get one made for you here in the states. You should be able to remove enough plastic to get to the lock assy without the key. Sean

I have a heater ultrasonic cleaner that works very well. They are expensive for this type though. It gets hot enough to steam and I think if I left the heater on long enough it would boil. The ultrasonic actually heats up the fluid too but takes longer to make any real temperature. I use a solution of carb cleaners which really help remove the gunk and grime. I still have to remove the carbs and parts and immedately spray them with carb cleaner followed by brake cleaner then compressed air to clear the passages and verify they are working. I have not tried straight water yet though it may work. Sean Morley

Yes, that is correct, as long as the bolt through the bottom is removed and the clip under the dust seal. All you have to do is push the inner fork tube into the fork lower then quickly yank it like you are pulling it out - much like a slide hammer as was previously mentioned. It may take a couple of yanks. If the bike is stable enough you can install the fork back in the tripple and then yank down on the lower. Either way you will have to use a slide hammer tool to reinstall the "metal slide" which is what is holding you up right now. You can make an inexpensive one with a long section of thin wall PCV pipe (schedule 40 i believe). Sean Morley

I am not sure about the movement from single pickup to dual as I have only done it the other way around. You could probably use one for the Fazer/FZX engine since it was dual pickup. The older bike probably has different bolt hole spacing but not sure on that either. I have adapters for 6 piston huyabusa calipers and R1 rotors for use on early Vmax models which I think are the same as the 2 piston Fz's. If yours were 4 already you might be able to simply bolt on a set of r1/r6 calipers. We did that to an 88FZR1000 and it was a direct fit. It's also a direct fit for the newer Vmax models. Sean

I don't know if you got the calipers figured out or not but I have some new adapters to fit huyabusa 6 piston calipers to Vmax and Fazer models. It would not surprise me if they wouldn't work on your setup. email me directly if you still are looking and we can make some measurements to see if they might. Sean Morley [email protected]

I believe the socket you need is 18mm but I don't recall at the moment. I know that is the size for the Vmax plugs. 13mm is about the equivalent of 1/2", 16mm about 5/8". You may need 15mm socket too. Sean Morley Kansas Chapter Rep - Welcome to the VMOA! Member Number #1479 Our Website - Morley's MuscleCars and MuscleBikes - http://www.fbody.com/members/one2dmax/MorleysMusclecars.htm