chrisw

Nice looking bike. Regarding the screen, out of all the one's I've seen the Yamaha racing screen with is the one I'd go for, it doesn't look tatty like some screen do. Want's a Oval Carbon can sticking on it as well, that'll make a heck of a diference to it's looks.

People will assume it's alot of milage purely because of what the annual average bike milage. But to be honest there's no reason why your engine shouldn't last until 100k at least. I think it was last week MCN where someone was asking a similiar question and got a reply saying that he'd known someone have an engine strip down at over 100k and you could still see the original honing marks on the cylinder walls.

I had a 2001 YZF600R and put 36k on it within 2and half years, and it still ran spot on. Just make sure it gets serviced properley and it will run for a long time. I now have a 2004 R6 and it's got 35k on it, and as you do, you do start to think it's getting a bit tired and needs some work so last week I took out a new R6 and I actually realised mine was still spot on and it's all in the head that it's getting tired. After all it's not a lot of miles really.

Possibly the water pump on it's way out, could explain the rattling and also the temp increase !

Is it bouncing up to 8k and then to actual revs then to 8k again then actual revs roughly every 3 seconds ? If so then the usual problem is that the fuel tank sender has broke ... but don't worry it can be easily repaired. Take the sensor out and you'll see that a wire has broke away from the soldered joint. Solder it back on, put it all together again and it should be ok.

Try to avoid the Carbon look stuff ..... it just looks tat IMHO.

Hi, I've taken my rear pegs off, and put em back on and took em off ...... see where I'm going ! You need to remove the rider seat to get to the bolts that undo them, the front bolt on each side is slightly fiddly to get to because of the bodywork, however I just took a nic or two from the bodywork (it's hidden unfder the seat anyway) to make removal and refitting a bit quicker/easier. The most fiddly job on mine is having to fit the exhaust strap each time, I plan to add in an thin extra nut that goes between the hanger and the strap so when I remove the hangar it doesn't loosen the strap from the exhaust. Takes about 10 mins to change over.

Not sure which side the cable goes to on that bike but it could be a brocken push rod, (between end of clutch cable assembly and clutch). I think you've got no alternative but to take things apart and have a look.

What kind or indicators did you fit ... BULB type or LED type / IF LED did you swap the indicator relay or did you fit inline resistors or nothing ?

Hi Neil, It's nice to get the missus on the back (so to speak) but there's to much of a good thing when they won't get off. As regards to your susspension set up, you'll probably need to add a couple of clicks onto the rear preload, and try adding a click or 2 onto the rebound dampening. Basically you'll have to play a bit to get it to just how you want it.

You could wire the light up directly to the battery using 6mm wire and relay that pulls in power from the CDI unit. That way your not pulling much current through the CDI and you can be sure that your light is getting the full voltage and therefore brightness.

not heard good or bad about those. Have you looked what Yamaha offerings are like ? I'm sure they do them.

Matt do us a favour ... how do you load images on here ? I can't suss it out and the HELP section proved little help! Anyway I too have a Carbon Slip on for my 04 R6 (Scorpion) Power gains were irrelevant, just wanted something that suited the bike better than the thing that comes on as standard. I am thinking about gettnig a Scorpion stubby exhaust for it now though.

Might be worth having the forks serviced if you think they're a bit niff naff. However, comparing them to a crosser .... on a crosser you have loads of travel and can set the Compression and rebound dampening to suit the terrain. If I recall on a Fazer you can't set the compression dampening so they'll compress at a factory preset and the only way of changing that is to put thicker oil in the legs. but this brings us back to the original comment of increasing load onto the headstock. I don't think the firmness you'll get from a fazer forks is going to cause your head bearing to fail so quickly. It's possible that it's most likely just unlucky that they went at all so early in it's life. Get the bearing changed, check what adjustment is on the fazer forks as I'm not sure about that particular year (guessing it's a early 2005 model considering it's just out it's warrenty period) and then see if you can change the compression dampening.

less dive on the front end is likely to put more stress on the bearing. If the forks don't absorb the energy where's the next contact point ... the head stock !!

Got an 04 Plate R6 and done 33,000 on her already. No where near as much as some I know but then it's no tourer either

Car oil in a motorbike with a wet clutch will allow the clutch to slip just as you describe. You need to use proper Bike oil.

That should be fine I don't think they ever changed the wheel on the YZF600R during it's life span.

R1 Rims are too wide. It's recommended that you stick to the 160 tyre on the back of the YZF600 (Thundercat). I think Fazer wheels are the same as the YZF600's

Only 'Nutter Syndrome' which is rider induced anyway. The one thing I will advice mate is take it steady for a while and learn to read what the bike is doing/telling you. Earlier R6's are known to bite if you can't read the signs and being a newbie to bikes your not going to be able to yet. Front end comes up easy and tank slappers are not uncommon. get used to it and enjoy biking!

Didn't know Vin Diesel Played the Gutiar

Unbolt the lever from the actual hanger and ensure it's clear of crap and Ally corrosion (white powder). ensure it's greased up , but not too much to attract more crap, and refit it again.

Ok so how the hell do you put pic's up on here ?

Hi, so it's not really the shock you want to adjust. Depending on how short you've got a couple of options. either have the seat foam reprofiled lowering the actual seat or you could get a lowering kit for the rear suspension.

Hi Front Indicators are currently Tiny-cators, but Motrax have just bought some new ones out that are LED flush mounted that are designed to go into the gap left after removing the original indicators. As for the rear the only photo I have was during prototyping to see if it would work, so I've since painted the brakcets and fitted black polts from underneath rather than seeing the nuts. can't suss out how to put pic's on here though ... though I had but it's not having it !