chrisw

Hi Matt I've got an 04 R^ and put a Scorpion Carbon oval end on on it. It's looks smart has removal baffle, I never put mine in and commute 40 miles on it everyday. I've also got the rear light fitted with the built in indicators and it really cleans the back end of the bike up, it'll be going for its first MOT soon so I'll know whether it passes with these instrictly speaking it should but you never know. As regards to tail tidys I just removed the old unit and then got a couple of bits of L shaped bits of metal drilled holes in them where the original fixing holes are and then bolted it up and fixed the plate to these. Cost only a few pence compared to 40 odd quid for a proper one. Also I think it looks less clutered this way as soome I've seen have quite large metal plates that bolt to the undertray.

Happy riding Rog, you should have pleny of fun on a Cat. A well underestimated bike they were. YAm should bring a modern one out.

A Stator is the part of an electric motor or generator that doesn't move. i.e. Stator plate and is a single part of an Alternator.

The TCat has a couple of built in fault codes and it shows the fault by playing with the rev counter deliberate. 1st code is rev counter at 8000 for 3 seconds then actual revs and keeps flicking between the 2. 2nd code is rev counter at 3000 for 3 seconds then actual revs and keeps flicking between the 2. If the fuel sensor or the fuel light bulb blows it shows one of these codes (just can't remember which).

I use to put BT020 rear and BT010 front on my old Cat. Handled spot on come rain /shine or even snow. I'd get 6000 mile out of a rear before changing when I use to change both tyres as a matter of course, whether the front was ready or not. Currently ride standard Diablos on my 04 R6 and get about 5500miles out of them. You wouldn't need anything above standard on a Cat. Milage wise on a daily commute of about 25 miles each way some of which was stop start all the time in Nottingham I would get 162 miles to a tank before fuel light would come on. As regards to oil, keep with the good stuff Castrol/Mobil1 don't use Halfords stuff it's not worth it in the long run. Service intervals are every 6000 miles and that plate (Upto 1999 plates were 4000 then it went to 6000). One thing I'm aware of that plays up regular is the Fuel level sensor. The wire seems to break from the solder and you'll get the rev counter goin between the actual revs and then nothing and then reading 3000rpm (may have been 8000) then back to actual revs. if this happens, lift the tank (drained) no need to remove it, and remove the fuel level sensor, if it is purely the wire that has broke from the solder, then solder it back up and refit (may need a new gasket).

i doubt we'll get chance to ride up to practise or ride lengths, we all work at the same place and I know some of the riders work very long hours and don't get much time at weekends either to make regular rides. There are some of us who won't find it as difficult as others. We haven't got bike to bike but we are using the Leader/marker and Sweeper riding system and are all familiar with so that will help with keeping the group in the right direction or at least the direction of the leader anyway :-) We've actually got some people who have helped with promoting the ride on internet forums that are going to join us for part of the ride.

No, we're not those guys. Sorry to hear about your missus, it's not a nice thing to cope with as a partner either I'm sure. I don't normally do Charity stuff as it goes to the wrong place's much of the time (usually out of this country), but the 'C' is something that will at some point in our lives effect each and every one of us in some form or another, which is why I support this one. It would be nice to think that one day it'll be something that just like we get jabs for as a kids (like we do now for TB) or even a cure rather than preventative measure.

3 days may initially seem like a long time but we've 1) Got a lady rider who's only ever rode 150miles max in day before, So to her this is going to be one heck of a challange. 2) We're not only missing Motorways but we're not taking the most direct route either which is why we'll cover 1003miles according to Sat Nav. 3) 9 Bikes and 1 support vehicle are always going to take longer than just a couple of bikers doing it. A petrol stop for 9 bikes isn't going to be a 3minute stop. 4) We've also got to get up there and back so outside of those 3 days, so we've actually got to cover about 1850 miles. I've done 1000 miles in 2 days before on A roads and it takes it's toll on you as a rider. What we don't want is for a rider to be too weary that they end up making a serious error injuring either themself or a member of the public, so we're keeping it sensible, leaving enought time to have a good sleep and keep us refreshed so we all get their safely. Besides averageing 360 miles and keeping it legal for the first day driving the roads in Scotland in August bank Holiday fighting the flow of Caravans will take approx 11 -12 hours. Now in August you can guarentee it's either going to be boiling hot so regular stops to hydrate will be needed or seems it's a Bank Holiday it'll be pissing it down with rain. The 2nd day will also be approx 11 hours riding in to Ross on Wye on the Welsh border. We expect to hit Liverpool Midday and we've been told that we'll get held up there. The third day we only expect to be riding for approx 7 hours as once again we fight with the caravans through Devon and Cornwall.

On a 2000 I wouldn't drop them if your using it on the road. The front is known for it's tank slappers anyway (never owned one so don;t know how bad) and droping the yokes will only worsen that. 2003 - 2005 you can drop them a few mm without affecting the stability too much yetget a noticable difference

What model R6 have you got ... I assume that's the bike we're talking about !

The click could be the pads moving in the caliper. My mates Gixer is a sod for it. Saying that both the vibration and the click could be the headstock bearings. Gat them checked to make sure they're not loose.

Well I bet he's learnt his lesson and won't try that again

Best bet would be to get the Alternator checked. Get a Yam dealer (or other COMPETENT garage) and ask to check the wiring etc as well. It may be that you cooked your battery once and changed the reg/rec with out changing the now duff battery so the new reg/rec won't last long, so you change it again only to find it doesn't last long again. get compnent checked before fitting and using otherwise you'll just keep going round in circles.

Think there's a bit more than just a fiddle here and there, It's probably got softer cams on it. To be honest there's not a huge amount of difference anyway ... both are de-tuned R6 engines.

Not yet it hasn't ! But I take it apart and clean it myself now.

Crike, your not joking, not the most comfortable of saddles for 10 days.

Hi Guys Myself and 8 other collegues are riding from John O'Groats to Lands End to raise money for Cancer Research UK. We're all Sportsbike (ish) riders, myself on an R6. We plan to complete the ride in 3 days, covering just over 1000 miles and not using any motorways. As a regular on this site I thought I'd post the link on here so people can have a look and get more info and hopefully use the 'DONATE ON-LINE' section to donate some money! http://www.thrape.fsnet.co.uk/jogle1000forcruk/ Also the MSS Discovery BSB/BSS Team have kindly donated a VIP package for us to auction against costs. If this is something you would like to bid for here's the Ebay link http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=230097740122 Thanks for looking

I had a similar problem on my 04 R6 - Basically it was getting gunked up and not returning. Cleaning it all down solved the problem (by the dealer).

I always use Parrafin and a toothbrush for grubbed up parts.it's cheap and you can flush the part with clean parrafin easily.

Just bought her indoors a new bag and belt for Valentines Day ........... the hoover works a treat now !!!

If parking on a hill I always try to park at an angle, keep front end pointing up the hill with the stand to the curb side, so the bike is leaning into the hill, and roll it backwards so the rear tyre is resting into the curb to stop it rolling backwards. But it all depends xactly how far you bike leans on the stand my 04 R6 leans quite alot, I've seen other bike that are still quite upright on the side stand so ou'd need to adjust the method slightly to suit.

All of those stands seem to be ones paddock stands ... or that home made one ! All of which a re very useful in the garage for maintenamce and cleaning, but can't be carried around and thefore not suitable for what you originally said you wanted it for. Enjoy safe parking !!

Ow, that looks worse than i expected. That's loks like it's got a crease in it so your stuffed for popping it out fully. You could have it repaired and resprayed but it may be cheaper to get one off Ebay or from a scrappy (breakers yard).

Can't confirm the Paint code as I'm pretty sure they they do do different colours in the States. If you take your seat off you should see a code that can be used to determine paint. As for the dink in the tank, does it have any crease in the metal ? I dropped my old Cat once in the garage and it hit the paddick stand and pushed in the tank. Using a soft faced hammer i tapped around the dent and it bought the dent out as if it had never been there.

Hi Darren Sounds like your mechanic is talking out his rear end, I've never heard anyone say they can't replace an exhaust in winter cos the pipe contracts. dfoes he not have a warm workshop. I think the most likely reason is that the studs that hold the header pipe become quite corroded and often snap when undoing the bolts to remove the old header pipe. This happened on my old 2001 TCat at approx the same milage. I was lucky in that I could just get the nut on enough afterwards to secure the new header pipes. (replace with Stainless stell pipes so you don't have to replace them again.) If they do snap and there's not enought thread left, it's a drilling out job which is quite difficult. to get spot on straight. Saying that it sounds like a bag of spanners could be because of the gasses escaping from the holes in the exhaust. This could be why the idle is unrestful. Did the mechanic check the Cam belt Automatic Adjuster, it may be past it's best and not have enough tension to keep the chain taut alowing for cam chain rattle, also making idles unrestful. I'd phone a main dealer and see how much they are to replace. As far as the battery goes, did you get the Alternator checked, if this caused the battery to flatten then a discharged battery is likely to become faulty and not be able to be restored meaning a new battery is needed. Only replace though if your sure the Alternator is OK as you don't want to kill your new battery.