chrisw

Could be that the valve shims need checking. Take it to a dealer to diagnose the fault correctly. It's so hard to give a correct answer when all you can go on is a top end rattle, as it could actually be coming from the side and travelling up.

Recently a mate took his bike for a service and had arranged to take out an R1 demonstrator. I thought I'd take out a new R6. This is what I wrote to someone I often have a 600 v 1000 debate about. Now bear in mind as well that the write up is subject to the kind of tight twisty roads that are the English Peak District and could may be totally different for someone in the states riding big open fast sweeping roads. So off we went on some familiar roads to test them out, and this is my findings 07 R6 1) Lovely and I do mean lovely BARK from the front ram air, snapping the throttle is so satisfying 2) Handled superbly, I've never ridden anything that handled that way, it just flicks about like you can't imagine. 3) Engine is weak in low revs, but once at 6k it take off right through to the redline, gearing means that this isn't a long wait till 6k anyway 4) Brakes were good and had an excellent feel and bite to them. 07 R1 1) Too quiet 2) Fast as you not what in a straight line 3) Suspension was lot softer than the R6 4) Handling (and the R1 is supposed to handle good) was below expectations. 5) Brakes were very strong but lacked feel. 6) All you can hear is the R6 rider blipping the throttle and enjoying the intake bark. I'm not sure if it was because I'd just jumped off the R6 but the handing on the R1 was naff compared. Where the R6 loves to lay down in corners and there's loads of feedback and confidence from the front, the R1 wants to stand upright all the time and felt like there was no connection between road and rider, this meant twisty corners were slower on the R1. The R1 was like a missile, but felt uninspiring to ride as you didn't have to work it, the R6 is without a doubt ..... utterly amazing; OK the revs have to get up before it takes off, and it doesn't have a much low down grunt as an 03 - 05 R6, but once it's on the move it's handling excites and because your using the gearbox instead of just sticking in one gear it's far more satisfying to ride and gives way more SMILE PER MILE. Where would my money be ............... it would be on taking the engine out of my 04 R6 and sticking it into a 07 R6 frame. It has strengthened my opinion that a new R7 or R8 should be designed, waivering towards the feel of the R6 rather than R1. Shortly after we got back on to our own bikes, and refuelled we swapped to each others. My mate has never ridden mine before and the only time I'd rode his was over 3 years ago when I still had a Thundercat. Our thoughts about the 2 were the same: 1) The Gixer 750 engine didn't seem that much quicker than the R6 (both 04 plates), but did have more grunt a little more torque further into the midrange. 2) The R6 seems more roomy around the controls and dash. 3) The R6 handles better and leans on it's side easier. The ride on all the bikes has helped me appreciate my own bike again. I had been thinking it must be getting tired having had so much use, but I no longer think that, also seeing it on the road with gas riding it I thought .... "God d'mn that's good looking !" SUMMARY : 600's are better if you like cornering and enjoy RIDING a bike, 1000 better if you like straight line speed and enjoy just holding on Yamaha R6, whether '04 or '07 models are bloomin good bike's ! Not that I'm biased :-)

Seems like a long time, mine never sufffered like that. Take it back to the shop you bought it from and tell them of the problem. They should sort it out.

Next service will be at 6000 miles

Sound advice from thundercat2325 there. Starting with the basics first with this kind of propblem usually rectifies it.

Most bike shops should have a Haynes manual in for that bike, even Halfords probably have it in.

I think what they probably mean is the FZ6 is easy to ride. Because of the seating position at slow speeds it is probably easier to manouvre (at least for someone not familiar with either bike), and it also means that your not in such a cramped up position meaning it's easier on the wrists/back and hips where some people may suffer on an R6.

Just covered 2000 miles in 5 days on my r6. Only time I got butt ache was when sat in 1 position too long, when on twisties it was fine because of the shifting body weight.

You've propably changed it now, but it is a simple job to do. No special sealant should be needed, just make sure the mating surfaces aen't pitted otherwise use a exhaust silicon sealant.

Glad to hear it's back up and running again, now we need the weather to stay warm but not too hot and definately dry.

Same as Matt I have a genuine Yamaha black one on my '04 and it fit's spot on and colour match is spot on.

Thought I'd just add another post on here regarding this jaunt, We set off for John O'Groats tomorrow (Friday 3rd Aug), hopefully were not going to get this the naff weather we've been having lately. Organising the event has been time consuming especially for our Group Leader, but it's all for a worthwhile cause (Cancer Research UK), For those who havent, have a look at our website http://www.thrape.fsnet.co.uk/jogle1000forcruk/ if anyone wants to make a donation online, then feel free to do so Thanks Chris

Hi Hopefully you've not bent anything but just twisted the forks in the yokes. Put the bike on Paddock stands and then support the bike in the middle with a bottle jack and some wood. and jack it up until the font just stays on the ground. Take a not of how much fork is sticking out of the top yoke This will take the weight off the front end, allowing you to loosen all the yoke clamps at once without affecting the form height to much. When all bolts are loose, just grip the front wheel between your legs and wiggle the bars a little bit, this should centralise everything again if nothing is bent. If you need to adjust the height of the forks, jack the bike up or down slightly accordingly. Now tighten everything back up and all should be ok.

No that's not your cogs, it's just clutch rattle. You'll notice it probably doesn't do it when the engine is cold as the oil is thicker, but as soon as the oil is up to temp then when your in neutral and let the clutch out it starts rattling a bit, I'm not talking like a Ducati .. just a bit of a rattle.

Sometimes when pads are very close to worn they rattle as the caliper pistons retract more allowing extra play in the pad's. I've just had this with my 04 R6.

06 R6's had the stubby exhausts as well, so maybe you've actually got an 05 bike ! Scorpion do a stubby exhaust for them and they're quite sexy looking.

What exectly is it doing when it won't go into 4th, is their physical resistance or is the lever moving but nothing to catch? I've had something similar before and it was just dirty linkage around the lever not allowing it to return properley to get the next gear tapping i down slightly was the only way to move up so very similiar to your problem. Undo the lever and clean/regrease it and then see how you get on.

03/04/05 R6's do have a common rattle from then, usual heard from top right hand side of engine.

Well when I replace my indicators on my old Cat (YZF600r) they only had 2 wires to each one, where abouts are you trying to connect them ? Also you say you've connected it up, but you haven't said how you've done it. Have you connected 1 wired from the new indicators to 2 wires from the bike, or have you left 1 wire unconnected.

Quotes of that price are outrageous, crike you're only asking them to have a look at it. A good garage would be able to diagnose something fairly quickly.

I suppose the obvious thing is to have the camchain/tensioner checked. You could buy a Haynes manual and have a look yourself, but if you're not cinfident in doing so ask a garage to take a look, explain carefully what you think may be the problem and don't let them start replacing things unti you've given them the go ahead to do so.

Racefit are seriously noisey cans. I'd go for the Scorpion on, I'm actually planing getting one of there myself, I already have a Scorpion Oval Carbon one on. The service they provide is excellent as well (also not far from where I live). About a year ago I screwe up whilst putting the bike on the rear paddock stand and the stand bust the carbon on the exhaust, Scorpion too it back resleeved it with new carbon and new wadding and for just £60 (it was my fault).

The yamaha racing screen double bubble is the one to go for, It's angles fit with the bike. http://www.yamaha-motor-europe.com/accesso...ccessoryId=4879 Look at the link it, shows the screen but shows clear with silver print rather than the racing logo one which is black print.

IMPORTANT ... check your tyres ! MCN (19th June 07) has an article about these tyres falling apart and Mitchelin have done a product recall only the following are affected 1) If they are made in France. and 2) They bear the numbers DOT6UCW980T or DOT6UCW979T

Hi The problem here is that you have at least 1 tight link on your chain. When you adjust the chain with the stiff link on a sprocket it will give a different tautness to that when the link is between sprockets. If you put the bike on a paddock stand and spin the rear wheel by hand you'll notice the chain going tighter then looser then tighter and looser again.# The reason for the noise is when the stiff link runs over the sprockets and doesn't fit properley, you'll notice it more if you adjust the chain at it's slackest as when it tightens up it will be too tight and cause a grating noise. If you can't free the link (usually you can't) then it's a new chain and sprocket set, don't be tempted to just change the chain and not the sprockets as 1) it's bad economy at the best of times but 2) they are likely to be worn strangely anyway.