chrisw

My bike has daylight running lights so I can't switch them off, and the bike I had before I did keep the lights on. but I don't agree with ALL vehicles having to use them and with good reason. Using dipped lights during the day is a trade off With lights on you're more likely to be seen so great for motorcyclists who car drivers just don't see (but then to see something you have to look in the first place), most people see cars so there's no need to have daylight lights on cars. What is lost though is Depth Perception, if you're looking at a light in the day that is travelling towards you, you often can barely see the vehicle that they belong too, until it get's closer and therefore it's harder to judge the vehicles speed, so in many cases a car can pull out on another vehicle that the driver has seen, but causes an accident because they had judged the speed of the other vehicle very wrong. If we do go down the route of all vehicles using running lights during the day, expect to see accidents between car drivers and other car drivers go up, and what it could also mean is that bike lights will get lost in the sea of other vehicle lights on busy roads and lead to more 'sorry i dodn't see you' situations. Basically it will be a good revenue stream, because to combat the accidents they'll throw up more Speed Camera's as the government will say that's what the cause is.

totally agree it's far more complicated, actual effect depends on all sorts of things from fork rake/tyre profile/speed blah blah. I was just giving a very simplistic view.

If you've been riding fast bikes for years you've been Counter Steering for years anyway! Anything over 20mph (approx), you have to counter steer you just don't actually realise you're doing it. What the course has showed you is to apply counter steering with more intention, it's all to do with the Gyroscopic effect of a spinning wheel, turn it to the left and it will drop to the right.

Just posted something up about this in the Sportsbike forum (see below) Standard size should be 120/60 17 on the front. A few months ago I changed to 120/70 17 on my 04 r6 (went from Pirelli Diablo's to Pirelli Diablio Rosso's - only increased size because they don't or didn't do 120/60 17 at the time. Personally I didn't rate that size (120/70), where I usually get the front tyre wearing reasonablly round I had a flat spot on each side of the tyre at about 45% .. never seen anything like it before. I understand the logic of the larger profile, it should give you more tyre contact when lent over, I've tried it and gone back to the 60 profile which I feel gives me more feedback.

Standard size should be 120/60 17 on the front. A few months ago I changed to 120/70 17 on my 04 r6 (went from Pirelli Diablo's to Pirelli Diablio Rosso's - only increased size because they don't or didn't do 120/60 17 at the time. Personally I didn't rate that size, where I usually get the front tyre wearing reasonablly round I had a flat spot on each side of the tyre at about 45% .. never seen anything like it before.

A quick glance at the rear pic and I thought "Whoa .. huge clear indicators" ... oopps no that'll be the headlights of the car infront!

I think the issue of using tubes is that under acceleration it is possible for the tubes to slip round putting increased stress around the valva area of the tube until it eventuall gets to a stage where you could suffere a tube failure, rapidly deflating the tyre.

It shouldn't have an effect on your Warranty, as an exhaust is not likely to be the cause of any problems that a bike develops (quoted from my local Yam dealer). However you shuold tell your insurance that you've swapped the exhaust, if you need to claim on it they could use that as a reason not to pay out as you have modified the bike and not made them aware of the fact. Chances are it won't make any difference to the cost, but it's better to let them know. If you're not sure, give them a call first and say you're thinking of changing it and ask if it would make a difference to the premium, they'll ask if it increases the power of the bike, which you can always say no that you know of I'm just doing it cos the original is ugly. Once you know what difference it makes you can make a decision.

Count me in as well. Think it's a great idea.

To cure the jumping up to 8000 will be one of 2 things 1) the Petyrol Low level warning light has blown. 2) you need to lift the tank when it's almost empty, and remove the fuel level sender, you'll see a wire that goes from top to bottom and the chances are that the wire has broken off at the solder ... simply solder it back on and re-install. The jumping to 8000 shouldn't be the reason why it won't start. May be you've just flooded the engine trying to start it, I know with my '04 R6, if I press the starter for a second but don't actually keep it pressed long enough to start then it just will not start until I wait for ages and ages or push start it.

Definately the fuel pump, all fuel injection systems (inc cars) prime/pressurise the fuel system as soon as you swith on the ignition, so the pump activates for a couple of seconds.

Hi to you as well ..... I was ansswering not asking though !

A mate of mine used Rain-X on his iridium visor and it lifted the coating off, looking through it was a night mare so he had to buy a new visor.

Didn't want to assume you only filled up with fuel but I know so many teenagers with 125's that beleive that's all they need to do. If all looks good I'd agree with exupnutta that you have a tight link and then chain is a little on the tight side so you can hear it when that link goes over the sprockets. Spin the wheel and test the chain for slack every few inches you'll probably find part way round it goes really tight. if so the stiff link is on the sprocket (probably the front as it has a tighter radius). Loosen the rear wheel and check the links then just mving them by hand until you get to the tight link. See if you can loosen it up a bit by hand, bend it as far as it will go in each direction (it may be useful to slip the chain off the rear sprocket to do that. Check for any more tight links and then tension the rear wheel when the chain when it's least slack.

PMSL now I know what bike G-Man rides, not that I'm knocking the bike .. just that it puts a whole different persepective on his argument and as I said earlier in the thread: "It's probably fine for some little chuggalong but not for an R1 or R6 etc." something with 27bhp running with a 530 chain definately isn't going to wear chain/sprockets down very quickly at all !

err ..... so who didn't read the origianl post then, which had an opening sentance of :

I f you have a look on EBAY, A couple of weeks ago I bought some brand new ROXSTER panniers that are identical to the Oxford throw first time throw over panniers, they also include the rain covers and a bunch of elasticated hook for £29.99

With the latest Oxford grips you can connect them to your battery without worrying about leaving them on. I never switch mine off manually. The digital controller recognises the ignition is switched off from the drop in voltage and switches the grips off automatically as well, so you can never leave them on accidentally and drain the battery.

Some people would pay good money for that kind or treatment !

Any parking tickets issued by a Private Parking Company are not enforceable and you don't need to pay them, they'll send letters of Court action/Baliifss blah blah blah, but they are not enforceable. Never conntact them to even appeal there's no such thing it is just a scam. Tickets issued by the Council/Police/Companies on behalf of the council are different, and action is needed to be taken, sadly for the councils many tickets are invalid because the wording is incorrect usually around dates and an appeal to PATAS will have the ticket annulled. Go on to www.PEPIPOO.COM go to the Parking forum explain what happened and post up pic's of the ticket with all personal details washed from the image, someone will take a look and tell you whether it incorrect.

I'd be up for it too. I live at Mansfield and very often ride around Derbyshire, and know my round very well not just the usual roads. In fact we're off for a little blast toight, drink at Oakerthorpe, blast around, chips at Cromford (nr matlock bath) and then blast round finishing somewhere like Bakewell for a cuppa before heading back home.

I ride my 04 r6 through winter and always use ACF-50 (quite a wierd product, if you've used it you'll know what I mean) Yesterday it clicked over 50,000 miles and another biker who I was talking too couldn't beleive it was in such good condition considering the milage. Best thing though is if your bike's got fairings take them off and give a good spraying of ACF-50 to everywhere you otherwise can't get to. Beware though you will get it on some parts that when they get hot you get a strange smell for a while. Spray all the wiring connector as well, but do not spray the brakes/disk/tyres. Fit some heated grips as well, they make winter riding far more comfortable, if you can afford it buy some good heated gloves that warm the whole hand not just the palm (don't buy the crap that sells on ebay for around £20.00 though, they're useless on a bike). Heated gillets ae always an option, I wouldn't be doing with out mine on the really chilly/icey mornings and yes when it snows as well (not that often).

make sure you've got decent tyres and be smooth with your throttle. When breaking don't just grab a handfull be progressive. Keep slightly more distant from the car in front when at speed, watch out for damp patches on an otherwise dry road, they can catch you out. And keep relexed, don't tense up because your worried about the condition or you're more likely to make a misake.