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Hello from Banff Scotland. Working on an 97 sr125. Been riding a Honda NTV Trike the past few years and now want to return to 2 wheels but need to do the CBT first hence the sr125, should have don my bike test back in the days when you could ride a 250 on a provisional, but gave up biking for 40 years after my uncle was killed on my 20th birthday in a bike accident he was only 21 & he and I were like brothers. I'm excited to get out and ride and live again, so... here I am.

Hi guys sorry for the delay in responding. The reason I asked about the spring length was that for years I have had trouble engaging neutral. With engine switched off it was easy. I now can engage neutral easily. Culprit 2 warped clutch plates (brand new) replaced with 2 of the original plates and works brilliant. Thanks for the input.👍till next time.

So last week I had my DT MOT'd for the first time since 2021, then took it to Carrog in North Wales camping, with some people I know from an Aprilia forum I'm on. Had a great ride over on the Friday, and our Saturday rideout only had rain for the last 5 mins. Very wet ride home on the sunday though! Few pics below!

You Sir get the Platinum medal today 🙂 lol Shoot.... thanks for the link. I normally get my gear from Wemoto ...... they are double that price https://www.wemoto.com/bike/yamaha/fj/1200/1992/28776/ignition-coil

Morning, thanks for your replies Happy to report that shortly after I flagged this up the bike magically 'healed' itself. One morning went out to start and it sounded and felt like the starter was missing a cog with a loud 'clack'!!! After that it was gone. As it turns out I was most probably the self tensioner of the starter chain being stuck in between two settings creating some looseness there for a bit.

OK So pulled the back wheel checked and cleaned everything tensioned chain and tried again….No good! Did 5 days in France which was lovely but buzz noise persisted. On return I decided for the sake of 15 quid to replace the front sprocket….Ideally you replace both sprockets and chain at same time but as only done 4/5 k miles on these happy to make an exception and also just to see if things improved. When I compared the new to the old the old had indentations from the chain in the rubber damper. Maybe the chain was too tight or maybe it was a duff one. Good news on the test ride as now the buzzing is no more! I had fitted DID chain with JT sprockets this time but in future will pay the extra for the Yam parts. Happy riding 👍

I have messaged a friend in Oz and will pick it up with them late this evening when awake and try and arrange something Cheers for the link

I'm not normally a 'name & shame' person, but that's terrible! And I'm not sure on our rules for that either... So probably better not to. But the point is, it doesn't matter how many people have 'had a go' with it, it's work, and if he can fix it, it just shows his skills. What I'm reading out of that is: "I'm not a proper mechanic, am crap at diagnostics and can only swap out parts hoping the problem will go away." (which is partly what you've been doing, but he's supposed to be the professional!).

Well, as some of you may have noticed, there have been one or two slight, minor, hardly noticeable changes to the Forums... I'm sorry, I'm English, sometimes we don't realise that Sarcasm Mode is engaged! So, long and short of it, I blame Alex, he broke it!!! lol No seriously, there's been an upgrade to Invision v5, and it obviously hasn't gone as smoothly as possible. I got this message from Alex last night: Hi Paul, Hope all is well. I've seen your comments on the board but can't respond! The upgrade to v5 of the forum software has been a disaster. It was fully tested in the same environment, applications etc. I also waited for two revisions after the v5 went live to ensure we didn't have this issue. All testing went perfectly. However on rollout and after migrating the databases, I discovered there's an issue with certain member groups breaking the WYSIWYG editor. I'm in one of those groups. Invision have a ticket on this and they've discovered it's a remnant from v2 of Invision in how the member groups are allocated. They have a fix coming but we just have to wait. They gave me some solutions to try I could do manually but none of them worked. An absolute pain in the ass. Alex So, for those of you wondering, it's being worked on and hopefully things should be fixed soon!

I used to be older than I looked, but then I got fat and bald! rofl

Don't be so sure, I'm older than I sound! 😛 lol

I know about standard bulbs on bikes but not LED's, so go with Snakes posts for advice, however, i did a search on the forum using the search feature at the top and found quite a bit, but this post may be of some help, especially as snake also mentioned the bulb on the dashboard. see the last entry in this post.

Merry Xmas NEO 👍

You could possibly do with an external mike for your camera. You have a rather resonant voice like me, there's a lot of reverberation on the audio... Other than that, an informative video (that's actually in focus!!!).

Hey all been a while since I’ve been on here. I picked up a 1979 rx125 that had been under someone’s house for many years. 29000km on the clock. Seized front brake hydraulics. Totally worn out chain and sprockets. Engine has compression but crank seals have been leaking as gearbox oil was low. Bike has compression and spark but will tear down the engine and rebuild it properly. have been degreasing parts in ultrasonic cleaner and just generally tidying it up. so far I’ve rebuilt front brake hydraulics front forks. Replaced front and rear wheel bearings and seals. New sprockets. New tyres. I went with Bridgestone g511 front and rear. Next up is engine job. For anyone who wants check out my (mediocre) YouTube channel where I’m talking about it a bit more. https://youtube.com/@ejgrae1989?si=gExibA0efaB_JsgV going to do an updated video for engine strip down process next. pland for the bike are to get it running in stock format then, port the cylinder and build an expansion chamber. I’ll swap on a 28mm flat slide too. cheers

Giving someone a Thanks gives one point! and putting up a post gives you 5 points. Merry christmas 🎅

Well, you're a regular now... I'd probably get a lot more points if I posted pictures, but, I'm lazy... lol I don't even know what all the categories are for earning points!!!

sorry for not being on here in a while. There is a face book group page called yamaha xsr125 uk join the group then search in the files folder there is an array of different pdf's to download including the elusive service manual lol. hope this helps.

Okay, here's how it works, how a single bolt can remove the rotor. Its different to the DT magneto which has a full length tapered shaft. The XS 250 has a part threaded section within the rotor body. N.B. the normal short bolt with its washer, holds it all in place.

I guess he's referring to the magneto stator / rotor? if it is, then the internal thread, highlighted in red takes a magneto puller, the shaft is tapered with a woodruff key to hold the rotor in place. one of these... you put a spanner on the flats to screw it in to the rotor and a socket on the end and screw it in, which then pulls it off the taper. the indent in the shaft end takes the pointed end of the device.

I contacted them last night via their 'contact us' page, they replied this morning.... hi there ,Yamaha YZF1000 R Thunderace (1996-2001) OEM Standard Layout - Full Kit, Of the three hoses, all different lengths supplied, which one goes to the rear? many thanks. the reply from Wez...The shortest one is the rear. There you go.

It depends on which set you got... If you got the '2 line race set', the rear line should be the short one. If you got the 'up & over' set, the rear line should be the middle one. So, which set did you get?

Does it matter which one is fitted to the forward cylinder head, and which one to the rear cylinder head? Yes, it does! ........looking at Square's overhead photo .... https://www.squaremotorcycleparts.co.uk/products/carb-to-head-inlet-rubbers-yamaha-xv535-xv-535-1987-2001 I see the vacuum tube is angled in two different directions. for A and B. In my opinion which goes where should give itself up when it comes to fitting those vacuum tubes, as you want the angle of least resistance and prevent kinking. Having said that your vacuum tubes which probably are 'set' at the position, should enable you to pick the right one. When i say set, they have been in the correct position for many years so they will have a natural set position just waiting to be connected to the correct inlet tube. and this photo has an Arrow for FORWARD so the two inlet rubbers are shown at slightly different angles, you just have to look at yours to match the picture, you've got a 50:50 chance of getting it right anyway!! https://www.bike-parts-yam.com/yamaha-motorcycle/535-MOTO/1991/VIRAGO/XV535-20KW-/INTAKE/70_6973-6973/B8/0/14359

I got my Yamaha in a trade a while back, it was sitting for many years and had been cobbled quite a bit. Really like the thing though, rounding up parts, paint, gaskets, etc. Me- I'm recently retired, have an old Ford I'm fixing up too. Divorced, living with my daughter. I'll soon turn 60. Looking forward to learning and talking with you all here.

Pretty sure I've seen these before on barrels on other bikes, I think their purpose is to centralise the long studs through the barrel, so the barrel fits correctly, as you first tighten the nuts up, they press into the top of the barrel and stay there. If the barrel is stripped/sand blasted and the like then you'd probably have to replace one or two. In the distant past studs that went through drilled barrels suffered from corrosion and you could never get the barrel off, these centralising washers (sacrificial as Snake points out) keep the studs in the correct place and the studs exposed between the cooling fins but not corroded onto the barrel but more importantly centralising the barrel and cylinder head.

Someone else will give better advice, but to me it looks like a sacrificial part. The question is probably: Does it still look in good condition or does it look 'used'..? It may just be so that the other parts don't 'weld' themselves to the barrel or crack under the expansion & contraction of an air cooled engine.

Those first 2 options are definitely not going to work lol The tin can insert idea will probably work until you find a replacement.

Thank you Neo. Yes its gone oval and the shim if it ever had one is long gone... I'm either going with ptfe tape and see how long it lasts... or some copper slug repelling tape... or last ditch... a tin can insert or tin can new shim... or very last ditch.... I'll buy a new one. Many thanx.

Moved...

Hi there Boxoffrogs, you've unfortunately posted in the wrong section, this is the area for 1st posts to introduce yourself, this needs to be in the Workshop section. As you're a paid up member you can be forgiven, hopefully a mod can move this into the right section. As regards to your DT cylinder , is this a Psychic one? which i think means you need their 70mm race carb to go with it as it's not compatible with the OEM carb. see ebay photo in their listing..https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303728870851?itmmeta=01HYG5QDDRHVF8964F7Y944430&hash=item46b7a6c5c3:g:jacAAOSwVI5haWBL&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwDaUsbdex5Z%2FN%2F%2BeVDKSxvLRGMTuGxYA58GZnk0VNgNrMmiz1O4x%2Fe%2Bo2peb%2B%2B13MeGLpf9Xy%2B%2FIQB8%2BnvKl688piZg5w3vDIhIguWQq7J91Gz7xt3pHMo%2FYppxpNzxSglAmHzHLGvT2%2BkRYZENreX3qzShHmEOoQX9AuUP6qf6eV%2FcCGzyq99Inak%2FkOMHHAdJWPvmVM3iCYU2F%2B6MKXHB3UWdfU0eCAOcoqUbdH5Tl6WLsmKl05zgii4PQlfIbcw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4rX3YX0Yw

Ahh can see now, you're referring to this bit? yes?. ..and you have already worked out the cause and remedy. It's very common for parts like this to have a bronze sleave lining/bush inside and it's that part that has probably worn away causing the boss to move about on the pivot. You can fabricate a new sleeve providing you can find a similar material, I know this because taking bikes apart you come across various bodges that previous owners have tried to varying degrees of success. So the part you would need is the arm itself as the lining bush will be part of it. That's why it doesn't show up on the parts diagram. and if there wasn't a bush then the boss is just machined metal with a close tolerance when new which has simply gone oval over the years. The two options being: to either ream it out so the hole is equal all around (remove the oval) and fit a metal sleave/bushing of uniform thickness. or cut a sliver of metal and try wrapping it around the shaft, i.e bodge it. You can get thin tin brass, metal sheets in modelling shops, that you can try fabricating one from, try ebay. something like this... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145190789050?itmmeta=01HYFM8YJR8XNME4P2JJBPXDRV&hash=item21ce0b9fba:g:JnIAAOSw16hkrgAq&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwF1kt81QocyvSrSnVPobJjdkDG7uW3KM%2F4gs%2FS1p4jjAj773U51RvIl9E4q0Rw4kGb8CdrvFVuG2%2FIGtIq0MdhmdaJYIWBpQCPXcxmxvMWGO3HGbZvFP9Rq9lWvRBbJQVwjuIjL40DoIrxvZV%2Bvx%2F7Pnkj3%2FPY4I6ds4ddUWxo1C%2Btfey1YsMC0heHBRbVDaxF40Nc0uVgQYosEBcGAwmCOs3C9hUdY4KPJnbPRi%2BWWPgn4Mfk01R6oMM%2FrFXk0%2FEQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8Tpo_TzYw

That is good news, Glad you got it sorted, I did say it's going to be something simple, sounds like different tolerances on the two sprockets causing the issue with chain. Thinking about it, I have a vague memory of something similar on one of my bikes in the long distance past that required a swap out of poorly machined parts, I don't recall the noise you describe but the solution was replace with a different sprocket to cure the problem. and well done for coming back with the end result. All too often there are multiple posts that remain unfinished with no conclusion or report back. I've given you another like on your last post there to help put you on the leaderboard.

Yes, it doesn't help that you've managed to get your handbag strap in the way either! 😛

When you say Alternative to electric driven fuel tap, is that what it is? I thought the solenoid was part of the fuel shut off system. The fuel pump which is electric driven is elsewhere. i may be wrong, but i think the fuel tap doesn't include the pump, they are separate. (its just the terminology you're using may be throwing me, a solenoid being just a type of switch, whereas driven implies a motor) Removing the existing shut off valve and tap and simply replacing it with a gravity tap, is probably not difficult. But is there enough room to get at it? You may have to consider that If you disconnect the solenoid you may get a fault code on the ECU, so you may have that to contend with. Can you not repair the solenoid? I found a vid on youtube which may be of some help.... https://youtu.be/ZldV4FHF2n4

Welcome in, and hope you're on two wheels soon!

Can we stop for ice-cream? Where's my potty? Why didn't I think of that earlier..?

Well thats good news, hope it works out for you. As a bit of fun, we have a ranking system within the forum from awarding thanks and likes etc. the more you get it moves you up through the tables. Popular posts can get gold, silver and bronze medals. Its just for fun and not to be taken seriously but it adds to your profile. On posts you'll notice a grey heart on the bottom right, and clicking on it will show a variety of icons. Anyone can click on them and you can click on as many as you like. I've given you a few likes and thanks and now your name will appear on the Leaderboard ranking for the week. You could end up with a gold medal!!

Hey thanks, i am in the UK also and will try the Oz contact

My paranoid suggestion for this instance would be: Send them the pictures, order the key to a FRIENDS house instead of yours... Or a PO box or dropbox or something... Just not the same address the bike is kept at.

Thanks Neo appreciate the advice…. Chain has been well maintained and have already checked…. The noise sounds like every link is striking/fouling something rather than a single link that would change as speed changes…. Sounds same as if you dragged a fingernail over a comb. I think I will take rear wheel off this weekend and make sure everything is correct…. I feel it’s an alignment issue of some sort….. On the plus side it is a long weekend 😁

Aaah, that would have been good to know earlier... lol The part numbers are different. If they were the same, they would usually have the same part numbers. That said, for £28, go for it... Buy it and see if it fits... Ok, I'm just completely lost now... Exactly which part are you looking for???

Thanks for the comments. I was looking for just the exhaust pipe, not the silencer, so there's no brackets to worry about only its shape and dimensions. Ebay has some of the RX100 pipes under p/n 36LE46110000 and they do look similar being a sort of a shallow L shape with a loose flange fitting to mount to the engine and open where the silencer attaches. Parts drawing sketches of both attached. I should have added that if you click on the drawing, its name will be shown to distinguish between them, although they look the same.

Looks good!

Aaah, you found a cheaper one than I did NEO, but yes, both options are out there, apparently only as a 3rd party item...

Hello everyone, Just joined the club to see what goes on with a view to become a full member and thought I would introduce myself. Got my first bike at 17 in 1968, Yamaha C90 and over the years had many yamaha's including 2 fjr1300's, a Diversion 600 and 3 Tracers with the 9GT being the bike I'm now on two and a half years old with almost 18000 miles on it.I also have a Triumph bonneville t100(sorry if that's swearing on this forum) I joined the IAM when I reached 68 years old to see if I was still capable to ride and still riding at 72 so must be doing something right.