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Avon Tires 45/46


Scouser
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When riding around town the tires dont get very warm but after a long scoot down the highway at higher speeds they warm up quite a lot more.

What I've found is the following.

slow speeds the tires feel good, higher speeds after warm up they feel that there is a weave in the bike when going back down to slower speed. I can ride for a while and still feel this weave in the bike at the slower speed.

The next time I take the bike out again it feels fine until the tires warm up a lot more.

Anyone else ever had this.

Scouser

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Hi Scouser, are you sure its not your bike wanting to ride the other side of the road? (Are you Canadian in Liverpool, or a `pud in Canada?)

Which of your three bikes is this happening to?

Are your tyres worn evenly? is the front older/newer than the back?

What Tyre pressures are you running?

What are your head race bearings like? (Too tight can make the bike weave, Too loose will give jerkeyness and knocking under breaking)

front wheel spindal clamps / axle bolt/nut secure? tightened in the correct sequence?

Check rear wheel alignment. (Do not rely solely on the swingarm marks, use a straight edge and measure both sides)

Is there any evidence your bike had a previous accident?

Is this a new symptom come on suddenly, or has it got progressively worse over time?

Have you got a steering damper fitted? is it adjustable, if so what happens at most and least damped settings?

Are your tyres seated on the rims correctly and evenly all round and on boyh sides front and back?

If you can answer all the above and get 10/10 go to the top of the class, You will probably have found something.

Dont forget tyres aren`t the only things tat heat up as you ride. Wheel bearings, dive chain,brake discs etc all have an effect as they get hot / cool down so you need to check your whole bike over when its cold, do a ride, check it all again when its hot. could be a leaking fork leg with one side lower than the other, or a duff rear shock going all wonky when it gets warm. having said all tat it is probably a dodgy front tyre after all, :rolleyes: so get some new ones on and forget all the rest B)

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Hi Scouser, are you sure its not your bike wanting to ride the other side of the road? (Are you Canadian in Liverpool, or a `pud in Canada?)

Which of your three bikes is this happening to?

Are your tyres worn evenly? is the front older/newer than the back?

What Tyre pressures are you running?

What are your head race bearings like? (Too tight can make the bike weave, Too loose will give jerkeyness and knocking under breaking)

front wheel spindal clamps / axle bolt/nut secure? tightened in the correct sequence?

Check rear wheel alignment. (Do not rely solely on the swingarm marks, use a straight edge and measure both sides)

Is there any evidence your bike had a previous accident?

Is this a new symptom come on suddenly, or has it got progressively worse over time?

Have you got a steering damper fitted? is it adjustable, if so what happens at most and least damped settings?

Are your tyres seated on the rims correctly and evenly all round and on boyh sides front and back?

If you can answer all the above and get 10/10 go to the top of the class, You will probably have found something.

Dont forget tyres aren`t the only things tat heat up as you ride. Wheel bearings, dive chain,brake discs etc all have an effect as they get hot / cool down so you need to check your whole bike over when its cold, do a ride, check it all again when its hot. could be a leaking fork leg with one side lower than the other, or a duff rear shock going all wonky when it gets warm. having said all tat it is probably a dodgy front tyre after all, :rolleyes: so get some new ones on and forget all the rest B)

Scouser living Canada.

Bike in question FJ1200 1986

Tyres are evenly worn.

New tyres only 2000km on them

34 front 36 rear pressure

Bearings checked (wheel and head)

Front wheel tight

Alignment from side to side (on rear) measured by a vernier.

Never dropped.

No steering dampner.

New chains and sprocket in order to eliminate problem.

Fork oil changed no leaks.

Problem only came about after the first 1000km on the tyres.

I heard on another site (Bandit) forum of problem with the Avon from running at high speed back down to slow speed.

For now I'll stay at the bottom of the class untill I get this sorted.

Thanks for your help.

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Scouser living Canada.

Bike in question FJ1200 1986

Tyres are evenly worn.

New tyres only 2000km on them

Problem only came about after the first 1000km on the tyres.

I heard on another site (Bandit) forum of problem with the Avon from running at high speed back down to slow speed.

For now I'll stay at the bottom of the class untill I get this sorted.

Thanks for your help.

:huh: A real puzzle <_< Are the tyres on the right way round? that is does the arrow point in the direction of rotation

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:huh: A real puzzle <_< Are the tyres on the right way round? that is does the arrow point in the direction of rotation

Tyres are on right way round.

It is a pain in the arse trying to sort this as it rides great all day in the country back roads but as soon as I open it up on the Hyw and slow it down to ride around town you can feel the weave in the bike. after parking it I can get back on the back roads (lower speeds) with no problems. Bike is a real treat to handle in the twisties untill Hyw again. It was once compared to (Bandit forum) tyre temp (middle of the tyre) being the issue but you would think in the twisties the side walls would also be affected by the temp.

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Right yu` bugger, try putting some air in your tyres.

AVON`s UK site states 2.5F / 2.9R BAR for FJ1200`s Thats 36 / 42 psi in old money.

Thats for standard 16 inch wheels with 120/80 (60w) Front and 150/80 (71w) Rear

Now you have knocked the newness off your hoops, they are more prone to tramline on the slightly flatter central portion. So they still feel ok leant over, but are trying to centre themselves on the squarer mid line.

Running a big bike like the FJ with lowish pressures means the tyres are less able to cope with the weight and as you come off the gas to roll down at higher speeds, the additional weight transfered to the front can produce low frequency occilations.

The Police over here have had problems with Pan Europeans when fully loaded, and I know a couple of pan riders who swear by running an EXTRA couple of pounds in the front when it is cold to cure the same thing.

Give it a go, go steady and see how she performs ;)

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Right yu` bugger, try putting some air in your tyres.

AVON`s UK site states 2.5F / 2.9R BAR for FJ1200`s Thats 36 / 42 psi in old money.

Thats for standard 16 inch wheels with 120/80 (60w) Front and 150/80 (71w) Rear

Now you have knocked the newness off your hoops, they are more prone to tramline on the slightly flatter central portion. So they still feel ok leant over, but are trying to centre themselves on the squarer mid line.

Running a big bike like the FJ with lowish pressures means the tyres are less able to cope with the weight and as you come off the gas to roll down at higher speeds, the additional weight transfered to the front can produce low frequency occilations.

The Police over here have had problems with Pan Europeans when fully loaded, and I know a couple of pan riders who swear by running an EXTRA couple of pounds in the front when it is cold to cure the same thing.

Give it a go, go steady and see how she performs ;)

Great info.

Thanks I'll give it a try.

I'll keep you updated.

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  • 1 month later...

Update,

I found the info on the Avon tyre problem on the maximumsuzuki.com site.

They have listed a lot of complaints re: front wheel weave. The bike tends to follow the pattern of the tyre at slow speed causing front end weave (wobble). Its been listed as very common on the Bandits with the same tyres.

They recomend bumping up the pressure as high as 44psi rear and 42psi front. As soon as I did this the problems all went away.

Thanks for all the help everyone offerd.

Scouser in Canada.

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