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yzf r125

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yeah, i know the seller too, ill be getting mine at the end of the month

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Would many of yous be interested in the 150cc kits for the yzf r125?

Im looking to get together with someone in India who may also be able to supply these kits. All parts will be genuine Yamaha bits, as they produce the R15 for that country.

What i know so far is that the R15 and R125 are basically the same except the cc of the engine. This kit would be a straight swap, cylinder sleeve, piston, pin, clips and gasket. As the ECU and head/cams are the same too, there wont be any other issues to deal with.

Prices will be around the 250 mark or cheaper depending on what deal i can get, and what numbers are involved. This is cheaper tha buying most performance exhausts and would gain you more power, simply because, the bigger the cc, the more power it will make.

If youre interested, rop me a PM just to let me know. There is no ETA for these at the moment, so you ont have to rush it, but there should be a few kits heading into the UK i the next few weeks. I will hopefully be installing one, and doing a writeup for it.

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Heres some pics

bigborekit.jpg

cam.jpg

Big bore kit 60mm

this kit includes

-167cc big bore 60mm ( high quality )

-60mm piston ( high quality )

-Piston Ring

-Piston Pin

-Stage 1 Camshaft to suit the big bore kit

-Base Gasket

-Top Gasket

Big bore kit 57mm

this kit includes

-150cc big bore 57mm DiASil Cylinder

-57mm piston Forged Piston

-Piston Ring

-Piston Pin

-Stage 1 Camshaft to suit the bore kit / Stock Camshaft

-Base Gasket

-Top Gasket

Also

Stage 1

Stage 2

Stage 3 cams available

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on the side where oil filter is located you have to remove the fairings, once this is done you wil see a pipe coming from the exhaust it conects to a little black box and you have to remove the 2 pipes running from it, then undo the 2 screws holding it together, and you will see a kind of diafram inside, i found a metal plate in there and was restricting the ammount of air going through it, so i adjusted the metal plateso the diafram opened fully to let more air into the airtake system. once all back together i tested it out and the results were not massive but very positive on respose and made it ride quicker than it was, and the top spped i had with oncoming wind was 85mph @10,000.

before doing this i was doing 83mph @10,500 rpm so allthough not massive but more responsive and a good find for everybody.

also removed the exhaust and there was not restricton on this apart from the cars, which when i get full system will make it even better.

good luck guys cos this is so easy to do and will liven up your bike, try it and see. let me know how things go

At guess this is a klean air system which puts clean air into a hot exhaust to help continue burning any unburnt fuel left after combustion. not a restrictor not a dump valve for excess inlet pressure just a way of getting it through emissions

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85mph @10,000. before doing this i was doing 83mph @10,500

C'mon guys.... the reason some of us are laughing is because so many statements being made here are IMPOSSIBLE.

example: Since this bike does NOT have an automatic transmission, how in the hell can you (on the same bike) tach 10,000 at 85 and 10,500 at 83 (implying some kind of improvement)? You didn't change your gearing did you? Didn't think so. Do you realize that you will ALWAYS tach the same RPM at the same speed REGARDLESS of what mods you make? You just might get there faster, but in any given gear, your RPM and speed will match linearly and NOTHING, short of changing sprocket ratio, will change the RPM at a given speed in a gear.

So, unless you increase the RPM limiter in the computer, you will never go any faster than the limiter allows even if you tripled the power generation of your motor, unless you also change the sprocket ratio. Over 100 from a 125? Not a chance in hell (or MANY thousands of pounds spent on an engine that will last only a few hours).

You just can't cheat the laws of physics, especially considering that power required is the CUBE of velocity. (doubling speed requires 8 times the power to overcome air drag) Ride in a vacuum and you can gear to get just about any speed you want (on flat ground, ignoring rolling friction).

AND "the bike will do 80mph restricted about 120mph derestricted"... what is that - at about 16,000 RPM? ya, that'll last a few seconds.

Reality check time!

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hello everyone, just joined the forum.

looks like a good active forum here wit some friendly people. Right here we go, im currently only on a cbt license and so obviously can only ride a 125 and I've been tryin to find out about the yzf r125 thats coming out soon, my main concern is whether it would be too small as i am 6' 3/ 6'4. also does anybody know any speed figures etc about it? and can it be derestricted for after ive passed my test or is the max power available the 15 hp it comes as?

hope someone out there can give some answers, cheers.

G

its not really about height of the person but inside leg length,well im 5 foot 7 and on the balls of my feet so you would not look out of place,suffice to say you may look like your riding a wasp :) no offence intended.

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Would many of yous be interested in the 150cc kits for the yzf r125?

Im looking to get together with someone in India who may also be able to supply these kits. All parts will be genuine Yamaha bits, as they produce the R15 for that country.

What i know so far is that the R15 and R125 are basically the same except the cc of the engine. This kit would be a straight swap, cylinder sleeve, piston, pin, clips and gasket. As the ECU and head/cams are the same too, there wont be any other issues to deal with.

Prices will be around the 250 mark or cheaper depending on what deal i can get, and what numbers are involved. This is cheaper tha buying most performance exhausts and would gain you more power, simply because, the bigger the cc, the more power it will make.

If youre interested, rop me a PM just to let me know. There is no ETA for these at the moment, so you ont have to rush it, but there should be a few kits heading into the UK i the next few weeks. I will hopefully be installing one, and doing a writeup for it.

you alrite mate, i would be well up 4 150cc or more so the 165cc

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Power commander is listed for yzf r125 on dynojet website for £279.65.

Anybody got one yet ?

http://www.dynojet.co.uk/powercommander/po...nder-prices.php

I have had one for a while now, including the Devil slip-on exhaust.. Nothing more to the topspeed, and not so much to notice at the acceleration neither. Disappointed, I must admit! Please inform me if anyone have any good maps or know of any good ways to tune the bike!

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C'mon guys.... the reason some of us are laughing is because so many statements being made here are IMPOSSIBLE.

example: Since this bike does NOT have an automatic transmission, how in the hell can you (on the same bike) tach 10,000 at 85 and 10,500 at 83 (implying some kind of improvement)? You didn't change your gearing did you? Didn't think so. Do you realize that you will ALWAYS tach the same RPM at the same speed REGARDLESS of what mods you make? You just might get there faster, but in any given gear, your RPM and speed will match linearly and NOTHING, short of changing sprocket ratio, will change the RPM at a given speed in a gear.

So, unless you increase the RPM limiter in the computer, you will never go any faster than the limiter allows even if you tripled the power generation of your motor, unless you also change the sprocket ratio. Over 100 from a 125? Not a chance in hell (or MANY thousands of pounds spent on an engine that will last only a few hours).

You just can't cheat the laws of physics, especially considering that power required is the CUBE of velocity. (doubling speed requires 8 times the power to overcome air drag) Ride in a vacuum and you can gear to get just about any speed you want (on flat ground, ignoring rolling friction).

AND "the bike will do 80mph restricted about 120mph derestricted"... what is that - at about 16,000 RPM? ya, that'll last a few seconds.

Reality check time!

Mania,

I had to post a reply as I have seen two TZR 125's do over 100 mph. One had a smaller rear sprock and the other, mine, was completely standard except for the valve being turned.

Totally agree with everything else you said tho. I had my R125 bouncing of the limiter earlier, a sad moment. :(

Blinding.

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well ive only done my CBT before this. ive had the bike around 4 days now and already done 200 miles! I love it!! Its acceleration is very good but top end im only getting about 75-80.

I spoke to the dealer about putting a custom exhaust on it and he said not to :/

Wht do you lot think?

My dealer tried to sell me an exhaust for it, removing the cats. At £400 im not interested, its only a 125 and for £400 I could pass my test and trade it in on an R6..

Blinding

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thers 3 cats in the exhaust and iv had 84 off the limiter and strate threw exhaust can give 13 mph extra so thers 97 i recon wid a good intake and exhaust youd av it on the ton mark

Fatboy,

You said "iv had 84 off the limiter", as have I, without changing the gear ratio you will still only reach that limiter and the 84mph. To add 13 mph you would need to change sprockets.

Blinding.

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I bought an r 125 about a month or so back . its a nice looking bike, it has a little bit of power but not much . i was reading your posts and every1 is saying there gettin 83-85mph standard . most i got out of mine is 122kph which is about 74mph . im gonna add a few bits like a straight through exhaust n that but id like to know how your getting that spped out of the bike standard . ive onlt done 600km (about 370miles) on it so i havent really tried to go flat out . theres still some revs left at 74mph but it just doesnt seem to have the power to get there . any suggestions?

Ive just hit 1000 miles in mine, I get 84mph on the limiter, not a regular occurance but it does happen. All I will say is I have been suprised that when I got to 600 miles i thought "thats it, all run in" but its not. The engine is getting looser all the time. It spins up so much quicker than it did. I also find winding it up to 9k and keeping the revs between 7500 and 9000 is the most fun.

It is a 125 and unless you wanna spend a fortune on squeezing every last hp out of it you should like me, accept it is a 4stroke 125.

Here is something that everyone that owns a R125 should know...

13.8L Tank Capacity = 3.04 Gallons

12.2L / 4.539 = 2.69 Gallons

1.6L Reserve / 4.539 = 0.35 Gallons

275.9 miles on a tank

275.9 / 2.69 = 102.5MPG

0.35 * 102.5 = 35.87 miles

112p/Litre

13.8 * 112 = £15.45

12.2 * 112 = £13.66

3.04 * 102.5 = 311.6 miles

Im running mine on Shell Super Unleaded, every octane helps :D

Blinding

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hello everyone, just joined the forum.

looks like a good active forum here wit some friendly people. Right here we go, im currently only on a cbt license and so obviously can only ride a 125 and I've been tryin to find out about the yzf r125 thats coming out soon, my main concern is whether it would be too small as i am 6' 3/ 6'4. also does anybody know any speed figures etc about it? and can it be derestricted for after ive passed my test or is the max power available the 15 hp it comes as?

hope someone out there can give some answers, cheers.

G

right bud the yzf r125 iz restricted but only by rev limiter u can remove it same az a car but u can also pop it like a car i got a 15 tooth sproket for mine and u get around 5 mph more in every gear but u cant hit the limiter now in 6th eg 83/85mph think it will be around the 90mph mark but before i would fly round corners at 83 ish then all ov a sudden it would stutter cause it hit the rev limiter wich isent good wen ur leened in for a corner so the 15 tooth is briliant and 1st gear iz longer so i can wheelie longer too brilliant big average speed is about 70 is or more iam 6foot1 and about10 stone and my bike goes like hell i also use supreme/optomax or aditive booster nos ect it help and goes ten time better as ure ron rating iz in the hundreds no bothere hope this helps bud

ps i hit limiter at 73 in 5th but now with 15 toother i hit it at 76/78 so u dont have to change early and u can at least get up[ hills at 70 rathere than 4th gear at 60 it is good iam happy but ive drilled my air box and removed filter and exhaust resurculation valve as it suck the fumes form exhaust but help cold starts but i let it go to atmosphere and it pops and bangs like mad sounds well good and ure not strangeling it with the 2 silencers and the cataylic converter the resurc valve is uunder radiator and runs along the right side ov bike there is also a hole on air box u can plug just strip ure bike down and look at it for thing that just slow it rathere than give it air fast and get fumes out even faster u want air in fast and out fast as u will have a more free flowing engine

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right lads if u realy want to derestrict ure bike get a crosser carburator it removes the limiter as carb just supply the fuel with a bleed screw easy done the r125 arent restricted they have limiters just like ure mums or dads or grannys car so u dont pop the engine if u remove it u will see a gain ov 2000revs as u get it to 12500revs but it can easy go bang u can hit over a hundred so dont beleive the sack chasers and ps boys i hamered my mates aprilia 125 and its derestricted so up ures 2 strokes its had a full rebuild so might be tight but he still hamers it but ive got a few mods to mine to help performance if ure dads a mechanic it helps so much as u can remove little thingds to help bottom end ect

also we raced on a quarter mile and i bet him to 4o then side by side to 60 then after that i pulled away again laughen ma head off hahaha it can be done just stick to ure guns and do things bit by bit easy ist way lads but i do recon if i was on his bike and he was on mine a would beat him on his maybe but i was flat out didnt even use clutch well about 1mm ov it haha

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hay peeps, iv had my yzfr125 for 2 month now and iv had 84 out of it all tuked in bounceing it off the limmiter at 10,500 rpm :unsure: lol was fun lol, im only 8 stone and 5,8 and all you tall peeps after you ryde it for abit the shok wares in becuss i can stand flat foot now if your still worryd you can get a lowerign kit for it to drop it 30 mm.

Im currently looking into makeing my own exhaust system out of 1,75"< pipe work but dont know what end can to put on any ideas are wecome??, if i get the exaust to work properly i will b glad to surply info for it

i got a new tyre and now can hit 89/90 on mild hill as the turnin circle will be a fraction bigger like a sproket kit wen bike was standard i could hit 85 off the rev limiter bounce wen my tyre got low/illegal from burnouts ect and wheeling keeping tyre flat to make it easyer eg so more tyre touches road and bike doesnt want to fall over eney way was 85 but wen tyre gt very low i was rufley getin 82/83 maybe but its only a slight difrence but wen ure bike aint that pokey and ure always flat owt u do notice i have alote ov tight roads were i live and jumps so its like a ilse ov man tt circuit but better a wen u come over the yumps on the back wheel standing up at 80 the cars comin towards u always shit them selfs or evn give u a thumbs up an thats wat its about

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Mania,

I had to post a reply as I have seen two TZR 125's do over 100 mph. One had a smaller rear sprock and the other, mine, was completely standard except for the valve being turned.

Totally agree with everything else you said tho. I had my R125 bouncing of the limiter earlier, a sad moment. :(

Blinding.

its all in the sprockets if u give it more power yes u will be limited due to rev limiter but if u change the sprockets eg to take longer to turn from gear box to back wheel u will get longer revs but slightly more sluggish but u will get a higher top speed as the bike is moveing furthere due to the sprocket being bigger=gearbox gear slightly longer ask eney crosser racer they will tell u go for small sprockets as engine turns faster/more freely but revs out so fast listen to avreage crosser they rev out realy fast due to short sprockets not box thats why if u make a crosser road legal /super moto u put big sprockets on to get u up to speed and its slows it down slighty as if u put a crosser with road tyres straight onto the road u would flip it unless u feed it in so bigger sprocket = longer time to turn but a furthere distance u will travel draw it on a bit ov paper small sprocke then a big 1 then dd ure chain u will see use a little maths u will figer it out just getin ure head around it my friend has been racing in the maxxis rally for years and the lantinlees stage in duns anothere way to figer it out is eg if u put 17"alloys on ure bike and u hit 85 flat then u put 13"on u would only get around 75/80mph as the wheel turns faster because its smaller there for the gear box has less strain/less movement/turn= less travel/distance u notice a difrence with eney car slash bike i have been moding cars/bikes for over 10years just have a good think its all in the maths

to make it simple just draw a front and rear sprocket in a couple ov sizes eg small too big big and big small to small its why trials bikes and push bike have small sprockets and big ones as u go up the gears u move further foward but becomes harder to pedal/more strain on ure engine wen i was a kid gears were a luxury so wen i got a shot ov friends bikes i tried to figger it out but now adays just play about on a push bike skiping through the gears/sprocket gears u will get the point/my drift its easy once u get ure head around it

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Mania,

I had to post a reply as I have seen two TZR 125's do over 100 mph. One had a smaller rear sprock and the other, mine, was completely standard except for the valve being turned.

Totally agree with everything else you said tho. I had my R125 bouncing of the limiter earlier, a sad moment. :(

Blinding.

also u dont have to spend thousands just do ure maths more air in means a little more air out as once air is exploded there is less to put out eg thats why exhaust valves are smaller but if u are giveing ure bike more air make sure u ithere make the exhaust more free flowing or port the exhaust valves easy to do i learned in collage but watch on youtube the same idea just watever way u preffer just take care around the valve seats but is easy to reseat them with profesinal grinding paste supplyed in valve kits or seat kit also u can fit the cam with out even removing the engine or head ect thats on youtube to but ive done all my work my self and my dads help hes being doing this since i was in the sack if u no wat i mean if u want to remove rev limiter u need to get a crosser carburatorbut watch for top end as u could run lean and u dont want that lean means not enough fuel instead ov exploding it it burns witch wont move piston down also u can go onto areo dynamics or weight diet have a shit befor riding have a piss dont carry a phone ect hahah just use ure head its very simple dont be scared as the engine are a peny a pop litturley and are easy to fit same as a care the connecters usaly can only go to 1 place as not all sensor are the same if u are worried just mark them or tag them simple iam just giving u ideas/ things ive tryed over the years and they all work nothing has poped yet aslong as u maintaine it u wont have a prob and regular services ect well oiled engine is a relible 1 in my eyes rust dont treet it like shit simple i hammer mine all the time but i maintane it also jst gettin through my bike test as its too exspencive with me have a few cars eg escort rs turbo ive also had ax gt x2 .saxo vtr. saxovts. punto gt . corsa sxi . ford ka. clio. micra 1.1punto .106 rallye 1.3 and the rest thanks for readying lads and take cares ov ure beest

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