S.Gjaltema Posted January 13, 2008 Share Posted January 13, 2008 Hello, I have a bit of a problem. After changing the engine oil (SAE 10W40 Castrol) the clutch is slipping. The bike has run 30.000 miles, do i need new plates, or another engine oil? There is some slack on the clutch-cable. Appreciate any help. kr, Sicco. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cy Welch Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 I have a bit of a problem. After changing the engine oil (SAE 10W40 Castrol) the clutch is slipping. The bike has run 30.000 miles, do i need new plates, or another engine oil? There is some slack on the clutch-cable. If you put the castrol synthetic or semi-synthetic in there you may need both a different oil AND new clutch plates. AFAIK wet clutch plates must be designed for synthetic or you need synthetic designed for motorcycles which is not as slick as normal synthetic. This is unless you have aftermarket plates that are made for synthetic which I'm not sure area available for XS400's. You might be able to get away with just changing back to normal dino oil if you put synthetic in there and it hasn't been there too long though. This is of course all based on my understanding of how theses things work, as modern oils just barely let my clutch lock up as it is, without putting synthetic in there. (BTW I have 43000 miles on mine). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S.Gjaltema Posted January 15, 2008 Author Share Posted January 15, 2008 If you put the castrol synthetic or semi-synthetic in there you may need both a different oil AND new clutch plates. AFAIK wet clutch plates must be designed for synthetic or you need synthetic designed for motorcycles which is not as slick as normal synthetic. This is unless you have aftermarket plates that are made for synthetic which I'm not sure area available for XS400's. You might be able to get away with just changing back to normal dino oil if you put synthetic in there and it hasn't been there too long though. This is of course all based on my understanding of how theses things work, as modern oils just barely let my clutch lock up as it is, without putting synthetic in there. (BTW I have 43000 miles on mine). Thanks a lot, It was indeed the new synthetic oil of Castrol, so i think you're right. I just made a few miles to test the bike with this oil and immediately the ride i drained the engine. So i hope with new "old" oil the clutch won't slip. kr, Sicco. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S.Gjaltema Posted January 16, 2008 Author Share Posted January 16, 2008 Thanks a lot, It was indeed the new synthetic oil of Castrol, so i think you're right. I just made a few miles to test the bike with this oil and immediately the ride i drained the engine. So i hope with new "old" oil the clutch won't slip. kr, Sicco. Yipee, problem solved. I changed the engine oil and used a non-synthetic oil. And miraculous the clutch isn't slipping anymore. kr, Sicco. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cy Welch Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 Yipee, problem solved. I changed the engine oil and used a non-synthetic oil. And miraculous the clutch isn't slipping anymore. Yep, clutches designed for synthetic have rougher friction material than the older bikes used. I'm sure that even they don't grip as well either since synthetic is so much better at reducing friction than conventional. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted January 17, 2008 Moderator Share Posted January 17, 2008 Yep, clutches designed for synthetic have rougher friction material than the older bikes used. I'm sure that even they don't grip as well either since synthetic is so much better at reducing friction than conventional. I put semi-syth millars 20/50 in mine, which is a fossil based cracked oil. I did post a similar reply in another thread, whereas I said synth was too slippy for the clutch and I got derided Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cy Welch Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 I put semi-syth millars 20/50 in mine, which is a fossil based cracked oil. I did post a similar reply in another thread, whereas I said synth was too slippy for the clutch and I got derided All I can say on that is that it wasn't me who did that. <g> I respect the all the good advice that you give on here to the other vintage riders. Slightly off topic (before starting a new thread) I just discovered I didn't dodge the fork seal bullet (hoping that my seals hadn't gone south while the bike was stored), anybody have the easiest procedure for changing them on a 1980 XS400? I know I have to do it (started leaking on my first sustained high speed ride since putting it back on the road) and I know I can get them on ebay for a decent price, but I have heard horror stories about changing them (while I'm at it I may well attack the upper engine seals as well.) Any help here? PS: Yes the bike in question is the one in my avatar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted January 18, 2008 Moderator Share Posted January 18, 2008 All I can say on that is that it wasn't me who did that. <g> I respect the all the good advice that you give on here to the other vintage riders. Slightly off topic (before starting a new thread) I just discovered I didn't dodge the fork seal bullet (hoping that my seals hadn't gone south while the bike was stored), anybody have the easiest procedure for changing them on a 1980 XS400? I know I have to do it (started leaking on my first sustained high speed ride since putting it back on the road) and I know I can get them on ebay for a decent price, but I have heard horror stories about changing them (while I'm at it I may well attack the upper engine seals as well.) Any help here? PS: Yes the bike in question is the one in my avatar. Well, guess what I'm doing at the moment Jack the bike up, or leave on main stand but raise 2" off ground undo caliper and tie up from frame (or if drum don't do this) Take off speedo drive and front wheel undo the clamps for the legs and twist down and off the bike (that's why you jack it up) tricky bit..... use an 8mm (i think) Allen key under fork leg and clamp leg in vise. (you have left the springs in didn't you?) using a shock/snap motion, loosen and undo the bolt. you still have oil in so be careful. leave standing on a bowl to let oil drain out (pref overnight) If the bolt turns but doesn't undo, come back on here as now it becomes a pain. Repeat for the other leg get the wife to take out the circlip whilst you push down on the top spring securing plug. (my missus has done this before and is really good at it. If you're lucky you can get her in a position so her tits rub on your arm, Bonus!!) take off the lower fork leg circlip Prise out the seal with a tyre lever and use heat. Mine has come out easy as i did this a few years ago and greased (ACF50) the seal watch for a spacer under the seal clean all the crud at the bottom of the leg drift in the new seal making sure it is the right way up anneal the copper washer for the allen bolts and check for any signs of wear reverse procedure for assembly (inc the missus help!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S.Gjaltema Posted January 19, 2008 Author Share Posted January 19, 2008 Hy, I've just changed both seals on my front fork legs. I had no problems doing that, they came out easely. But instand of using my wife i used a self made lever to push down the spring while removing the circlip. kr, Sicco. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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