MY XS250 IS REFUSING TO START, FUEL IS GETTING THRU, POINTS HAVE BEEN GAPPED AND TIMING CHECKED, BUT I CANNOT GET THE SPARK TO JUMP THE GAP ON THE RIGHT HAND POINT, POWER IS GETTING THRU TO THE POINT BUT NO SPARK WHEN STARTER BUTTON PRESSED, I GET A SPARK ON THE LEFT HAND POINT. HELP

I think that a new capacitor will be required.

I think that a new capacitor will be required.

thanks I have a spare I will fit that tonight

Hi

Have you checked the HT lead and plug cap?

I am not familiar with this bike - but I would have thought that it used pulse generator coils or something similar to create the sparks - have you checked all the wiring to these, and the operation of the pulse generator itself? You can check out the resistance of the coils if you have an ohmeter and the specs, if everything here seems ok, you probably have a defective CDI unit.

Good luck

Geoff

MY XS250 IS REFUSING TO START, FUEL IS GETTING THRU, POINTS HAVE BEEN GAPPED AND TIMING CHECKED, BUT I CANNOT GET THE SPARK TO JUMP THE GAP ON THE RIGHT HAND POINT, POWER IS GETTING THRU TO THE POINT BUT NO SPARK WHEN STARTER BUTTON PRESSED, I GET A SPARK ON THE LEFT HAND POINT. HELP

should not have any sparks jumping the points, your condensor has gone if it does!!

the points share a live feed which when closed "charge" up the coils.

to check your coils 4 ohms and 9.5k ohms should be measured on your coil wiring +/- 10% or swap over if one side is working.

I had problems with my bike bogging down under 5k revs and then trying to go over this. new plugs (iridium) cured this.

did you use the correct timing marks on the rotor? always use a strobe as when you tighten up the points the damn things shift, so i have to compensate so when it tightens up they are spot on.

should not have any sparks jumping the points, your condensor has gone if it does!!

the points share a live feed which when closed "charge" up the coils.

to check your coils 4 ohms and 9.5k ohms should be measured on your coil wiring +/- 10% or swap over if one side is working.

I had problems with my bike bogging down under 5k revs and then trying to go over this. new plugs (iridium) cured this.

did you use the correct timing marks on the rotor? always use a strobe as when you tighten up the points the damn things shift, so i have to compensate so when it tightens up they are spot on.

Hi I have replaced the points and the capacitor, I now have a spark at both points, however my next problem is timing, the bike has not run since may07, and I am having to time the engine manually.Every thing is fine with the points gapped but when I loosen up the back plate to time the opening of the points by turning the back plate they do not close, how loose should the back plate be when timing the spark. Help

Hi I have replaced the points and the capacitor, I now have a spark at both points, however my next problem is timing, the bike has not run since may07, and I am having to time the engine manually.Every thing is fine with the points gapped but when I loosen up the back plate to time the opening of the points by turning the back plate they do not close, how loose should the back plate be when timing the spark. Help

do the timing first, then reset your points. invest in a Xenon strobe £20 off ebay.

do the timing first, then reset your points. invest in a Xenon strobe £20 off ebay.

Not so sure about that. You must have the points somewhere close first, otherwise it will affect the timing too much.

Not so sure about that. You must have the points somewhere close first, otherwise it will affect the timing too much.

all the points do, is pass 12v to the coils for the appropriate amount of time (dwell).

I did say do your timing first, assumming that the points gap was already initially set (which they are) then reset them after the timing

Yes agreed.

Changing the dwell angle also changes the timimg. All my life I have hated points, now glad they are gone on most things.