Damien Posted May 21, 2007 Share Posted May 21, 2007 Hello, Apologies for my first post being a question - I'm getting desperate. My second bike is a Yamaha XVS 125 Dragstar 2001. I rode it to work daily (3 miles, 15mins, average 40miles/hour). One day, I switched ignition on, panel lit up... hit the electric start and the bike started clicking. Figuring it was the battery, and previously using the bike for 6months I put it on charge over night until my charger read "fine". Next day I had jumped it... rode a mile down the rode and bought a battery (pour in acid and seal for life) and connected up & rode home fine. Then two days later, the same problem. The engine would try to turn over and then start clicking. I had a full service done, even stated to them the problem but they couldn't find anything wrong with it (although, to be honest it wouldn't surprise me if they didn't even look at it). Reading through previous "charging problem" posts, and talking with a mechanic he's suggesting taking a read from the batter at engine & ignition off, ignition on, engine on idle, engine on full throttle. It seems like it could either be a dud battery (eliminated), rectifier, regulator, alternator, stator coils. Can anyone suggest what else it could be? What would be the priority for testing? I've got access to a volt meter (can use it, just about..) but I don't have access to the "service manual" as this wasn't supplied by the previous owner. Someone suggested testing whether the bike is outputting AC or DC - how can I check this? I've tried to look for a formula but no results. Apparently also if the battery on full throttle reads in excess of 14.1volts then it's defiantly a rectifier problem - how true is this? Thanks for taking the time to read this. Alex Swansea, Uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Mc Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 Hello, Apologies for my first post being a question - I'm getting desperate. My second bike is a Yamaha XVS 125 Dragstar 2001. I rode it to work daily (3 miles, 15mins, average 40miles/hour). One day, I switched ignition on, panel lit up... hit the electric start and the bike started clicking. Figuring it was the battery, and previously using the bike for 6months I put it on charge over night until my charger read "fine". Next day I had jumped it... rode a mile down the rode and bought a battery (pour in acid and seal for life) and connected up & rode home fine. Then two days later, the same problem. The engine would try to turn over and then start clicking. I had a full service done, even stated to them the problem but they couldn't find anything wrong with it (although, to be honest it wouldn't surprise me if they didn't even look at it). Reading through previous "charging problem" posts, and talking with a mechanic he's suggesting taking a read from the batter at engine & ignition off, ignition on, engine on idle, engine on full throttle. It seems like it could either be a dud battery (eliminated), rectifier, regulator, alternator, stator coils. Can anyone suggest what else it could be? What would be the priority for testing? I've got access to a volt meter (can use it, just about..) but I don't have access to the "service manual" as this wasn't supplied by the previous owner. Someone suggested testing whether the bike is outputting AC or DC - how can I check this? I've tried to look for a formula but no results. Apparently also if the battery on full throttle reads in excess of 14.1volts then it's defiantly a rectifier problem - how true is this? Thanks for taking the time to read this. Alex Swansea, Uk Could be a bad connection on the alternator - although if you're getting 14.1V at full throttle, that implies that the alternator is running fine. Check the earths associated with the alternator and battery, and check for any dodgy connections that will drain the battery (again, loose earths or frayed/nipped wires anywhere that parts move against one another (esp headlamp/headstock area).... With the engine running the voltage across the terminals should read about 13.8 to 14.2V (so long as it's a 12V system!). With engine off, should be about 12.6V. Clicking is probably not enough juice in the battery to run the starter motor - may be a sticking solenoid (rap it with a screwdriver?) and may be reg/rect as you say, but you'll need someone with a manual to give you details of the test required to confirm it. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alliboy Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 Hi Did you ever sort this problem. Its just that its happened to me now. If you have a possible answer to it I could certainly use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damien Posted May 14, 2008 Author Share Posted May 14, 2008 Hi Did you ever sort this problem. Its just that its happened to me now. If you have a possible answer to it I could certainly use it. Alliboy, It was the regulator/rectifier unit. I went in to my local spares shop and purchased one of their universal ones - £47.99 - got it when it arrived and it didn't have the right connectors on it etc. I didn't want to go choping wires etc and it'll ruin the good book value of the bike (£1,800) so I took it back. Started hunting around ebay, and bought a genuine yamaha spare for £4.70 incl postage... haha. The bikes been out of action for a while as I had to take the engine out the re-drill the front exhaust pilot holes due to them rusting in and I was in the process of replacing all the bolts with stainless steel. P.s. You will need a new battery, make sure you get one correctly rated for the bike as I've been sold quite a few lower amperage ones then I should have which wouldn't of helped the situation. Hope this helps. Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alliboy Posted May 14, 2008 Share Posted May 14, 2008 Ok thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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