imorf69 Posted September 23, 2006 Posted September 23, 2006 Hi all, just picked up a 2002 DT175 which has only done less than 4000 kms, and well looked after. However have found three things, and would be grateful for some help/advice since the owners manual doesn't seem to cover it. 1) Cannot engage neutral when engine is running, but can when engine is off. Also stalls when changing from neutral to first if I don't give it a gentle rev. Otherwise fine (ie can go up and down all the gears fine whilst travelling). 2) Sometimes stalls when idling even when engine is hot (ie not cold). If my idle speed is not too low, what is next thing to investigate (filled up with standard unleaded, noticed some pinging in a narrow rev range so will use a premium next fill, maybe that will help). 3) My top speed is 85kmph on flat bitumen. I was expecting faster than this, is that normal? It is air cooled so perhaps this limits it power output/revs, and has not been altered from factory specs. Any advice/help would be greatly apprecited. cheers.
imorf69 Posted September 25, 2006 Author Posted September 25, 2006 Update: Raising the idle speed to spec fixed the stalling, and also stopped the cutout when shifting into first from neutral when idling. Have been able to find neutral when engine running but only with great difficulty and only sometimes, and have found it easier to actually get it into what feels like second then "tap" it down into neutral. Any thoughts on how to fix this? could this be a transmission fluid problem or a a more complex transmission problem (part needs replacing)?
opinyun Posted September 29, 2006 Posted September 29, 2006 Hi, The clutch is dragging a bit. This makes it hard to shift to neutral when the bike is running. Adjust the clutch cable a bit tighter at the lever perch and see if it helps. Make sure there is enough oil in the crankcase as low oil can make the clutch drag as well. As far as speed goes they are not the fastest things on the planet. Check to see if the previous owner changed out the rear sprocket to a larger size. Many times people do this to achieve lower gearing for trail riding. I believe 45 teeth was stock on the rear.
imorf69 Posted September 29, 2006 Author Posted September 29, 2006 Hi, >The clutch is dragging a bit. This makes it hard to shift to neutral when the bike is running. Adjust the clutch >cable a bit tighter at the lever perch and see if it helps. mmm don't think it is this, if I am correct in interpreting what you are saying is that the clutch cable is not being disengaged till I squeeze in far enough, however it is a very low km bike (4,000k) and it doesn't feel like the clutch cable needs tightening yet (far from it). ie the clutch is disengaged after only a little travel of the handle. After upping the idle it is not stalling on shifting into first, and also I can now find neutral much more easily, perhaps because the bike hadn't been ridden much and needed a bit of wearing back in. Still not technically perfect, but at least functional. > Make sure there is enough oil in the crankcase as low oil can make the clutch drag as well. do you mean transmission fluid? >As far as speed goes they are not the fastest things on the planet. >Check to see if the previous owner changed out the rear sprocket to a larger size. Many times people do >this to achieve lower gearing for trail riding. I believe 45 teeth was stock on the rear. I think your first sentence was correct. The seller told me he had been offered to remove the restrictions by the mechanic who serviced it, but had declined, so it's all factory specced. Only one owner, bought new from dealer. Seems to me it is rev limited at around 6,500rpm, since red line is at 8K and max tacho reading is only 10K. More of a trail bike with street legality, than a street bike with trail ability. Thanks for your reply.
yamafun Posted December 30, 2006 Posted December 30, 2006 PLEASE LOOK AT MY DETAILS ON PERFORMANCE UPGRADES FOR A DT175. IF YOU ARE NOT MECHANICALLY INCLINED, JUST SWAPPED A 1977 IT175 MOTOR IN. USE THE STATOR AND ROTOR FROM YOUR DT175 FOR LIGHTNING. USE THE RIGHT ENGINE COVERS, OILPUMPS AND SPEEDO DRIVE FROM THE DT175. SINCE THE CARBURATOR FROM THE IT175 IS MUCH LARGER JUST USE K&N UNIVERSAL AIR FILTERS. USE AFTERMARKET EXPANSION CHAMBERS AND SILENCERS OR MODIFY A 1990-91 EXPANSION CHAMBER TO FIT. YOU ARE NOW READY TO ROCK. MAKE SURE YOU ARE READY FOR THIS. RPM'S WILL BE IN THE 14000'S. TOP SPEED WILL REACH 140 KMPH IF DONE PROPERLY. GOOD LUCK AND DRIVE SAFE.
ahilis Posted September 15, 2007 Posted September 15, 2007 I'm assuming all your questions have been answered since this post is nearly a year old. I have just purchased a new DT175 and have had the same experience in finding neutral...a light tap from second is easier than finding it in first. 10 years ago, I had a DT180, which I think was a 1992 model, with about 35,000km on it and it was the same. And they do lurch forward a little when going from N to 1st, especially when they're cold. If the idle speed is anything less than spec, it stalls the engine. But I have a question for you...I'm just trying to find a little history on the DT175. Do they still sell them in the UK? I bought mine in Botswana, and it originated in South Africa. I've only had it a month, so I'm sure it's a 2007 model, not 2008. I'm assuming that South Africa is the only country left to sell these bikes. I'm not even sure when, from the time it came out in the 70s, it changed into what it is today. My '92 DT180, Brazillian made but same bike, looked just like this one and I'm assuming yours does too. Do you have problems with your headlamp dimming to the point that it's useless when you use your indicators and/or brake light at night? I have to choose between using my indicator and being able to see where I'm going when I make a turn in the dark. Cheers!
imorf69 Posted September 17, 2007 Author Posted September 17, 2007 Do you have problems with your headlamp dimming to the point that it's useless when you use your indicators and/or brake light at night? I have to choose between using my indicator and being able to see where I'm going when I make a turn in the dark. Cheers! only saw this because i have email notify on. Coincidentally i have developed the same electrical problem in the last fortnight. I believe it is the battery is pretty much dead, as in my case one of the connecting wire terminals corroded off so the battery which may have been low on water levels anyway went uncharged for a week or two. The DT175 since it is kickstart will start fine without a battery but you need the battery to sustain indicators etc . I've noticed as my battery's health declined after I reconnected it, the blink rate changed until now it only manages enough power to blink when well above idle speed, and currently the break light won't power on, but when it tries it pulls all the power from the indicators and headlight. Tried a new bulb, and it did the same thing, so I will be buying a new batt and hopefully that will fix it, otherwise the electronics have shit themselves.
ahilis Posted September 18, 2007 Posted September 18, 2007 only saw this because i have email notify on. Coincidentally i have developed the same electrical problem in the last fortnight. I believe it is the battery is pretty much dead, as in my case one of the connecting wire terminals corroded off so the battery which may have been low on water levels anyway went uncharged for a week or two. The DT175 since it is kickstart will start fine without a battery but you need the battery to sustain indicators etc . I've noticed as my battery's health declined after I reconnected it, the blink rate changed until now it only manages enough power to blink when well above idle speed, and currently the break light won't power on, but when it tries it pulls all the power from the indicators and headlight. Tried a new bulb, and it did the same thing, so I will be buying a new batt and hopefully that will fix it, otherwise the electronics have shit themselves. Yeah, all of those signs are because of the battery. They poop out every now and then, even with proper water levels, and then your indicators won't work unless your RPM is high enough, etc. I found my problem. Someone at Yamaha decided to rewire the bike. They left all the same switches and connectors, which normally isolate the taillight and everything else from the headlight, but omitted some of the wiring and joined others to compensate. Now everything on the whole bike is tied together and they don't work well when everything is on, like when making a turn. Fortunately, since the same switches and harnesses were used, I can just add a couple of the missing wires and be done with it. Thanks and keep well!
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