Johnners1971 Posted November 28, 2021 Share Posted November 28, 2021 I'll be starting work on my 1981 RD200 soon after Christmas and it hasn't been started since around 1990. Has anyone any top tips for getting it to start without damaging anything? The only engine prep so far has been to drop half a capful of Marvel Mystery Oil into the cylinders to free the rings. The insides of the fuel tank were atrocious. The fuel hadn't been drained and there was a lot of rust in there. The tank was filled with white vinegar and left for 10 days and now its looking pretty clean and no leaks, but the first start will be using a portable tank. The bike was garaged and is in pretty good condition, accept for some light rusting in a few places on the frame. The other concern I also have is the condition that rubber seals will be in after this length of time. Any advice would be much appreciated. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NE0 Posted November 28, 2021 Share Posted November 28, 2021 Hi there Johnners, As a big fan of all 70's/80s bikes and having restored mine several times, the biggest problem you will have will be that old fuel thats been sitting there especially inside the carb. Old fuel not only makes rubber seals turn solid it also leaves behind a dark brown shellac like coating which is just as hard and is difficult to remove! The fuel evaporates and leaves everything stained brown, at best it can be wiped off like a dust, but it does tend to block up the carb jets and float pivots. (unless of course you drained the carbs before putting it away?) If you didn't you're going to have to strip the carbs and clean them out, which means you're going to need carb rebuid kits to replace all those dry seals. It's false economy to trust them (after so many years) to be honest, even if they do come apart and look intact. Is it worth trying to start it without stripping the carbs? I don't think so!! I did it once, fuel everywhere!! floats jammed up, fuel coming out the overflows, a right mess. Then you have to strip the carbs anyway!! and everything is wet with petrol! You'll also need to put in new plugs.! keep us up to date, wish i was there to see to it spring into life,....its very satisfying when that happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnners1971 Posted November 28, 2021 Author Share Posted November 28, 2021 Hi Neo, Thanks very much for the reply. Very useful. I'll seek out the seal kits. I'll get then stripped down and soaked over the winter months. Johnners Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted November 28, 2021 Moderator Share Posted November 28, 2021 After 30 years... My worry will be the crank seals, costly to sort too if a rebuild on the crank is needed. Personally after 30 years, if the bike is good i would pull the motor and tear it down, the chances of it being reliable are slim at best and the cost of repairing after a massive mechanical failure on 2 strokes can be quite a surprise. At the moment its all good, set of seals and gaskets plus peace of mind when you ride it. Cheapest option by a long way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnners1971 Posted November 29, 2021 Author Share Posted November 29, 2021 Hi Cynic, Thanks v.much for the reply. This is what I was dreading, having not undertaken a complete engine strip down before. I have the Haynes in front of me and have found some useful info on Youtube (Millyard). The actual parts are pretty cheap but I can see that I'll need a few additional tools. This is a low mileage bike (5800) so I'm guessing the bearings will be good. Out of interest, PJ Motorcycle Engineers indicating £200 for a crank rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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