Meem Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 Hello Lads, Im havinga a bit of an issue with my RS100 that i got last year. I restored it to "nearly" perfectly working order (left the patina on it) last year and drove 130 km without stopping and had no problems whatsoever. Last year i had to throw in a new Battery (old one was missing) and gave it a new ignition coil. It needed a new ignition coil because when the bike came up to operating temperature it was loosing power. Replacing the coil fixed the problem completely... until now. About a week ago i fired the Old Girl up and drove for about 3 km which it did fine. After the 3 km it started to loose power and the revs wouldn't go above 4000RPM. In fact it even struggled to get up to that! So I drove back home and decided to look after the Problem. Measuring the Voltage Output to the battery was shocking, 25V for a 6V Battery! The Battery was cooked inside and nearly empty of fluid. I fought that the rectifier had to be broken. Its not converting to 6V DC anymore. But replacing it did nothing. I read my RS100 manual about a million times last week and i havent been able to find a soultion for my problem. Maybe one of you has experienced a similar problem with a 2 stroke Yamaha bike of that era? Thoughts would be appreciated Schöne Grüße! Aaron from Germany Sorry if my English is a bit worse for wear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted April 7, 2021 Moderator Share Posted April 7, 2021 You need to change the voltage regulator not the rectifier. Dont spend a bloody fortune on one either, its the same regulator on a vast list of yams, something like this:- UNIVERSAL 6 Volt Voltage Regulator Fits All 1968 - 1983 Yamaha Enduro Models | eBay Will do fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted April 8, 2021 Moderator Share Posted April 8, 2021 See the image that Cynic posted? If yours is like this one then check the yellow wire connection and check the body is connected to ground Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meem Posted April 8, 2021 Author Share Posted April 8, 2021 Okay quick update: Yesterday i refilled the battery and charged it up again. Still holds about 6,5V so seems quite allright. Fired the bike up an measured the voltage while the battery was still connected to the bike (the 25V were coming out because the Volt-Meter had no ground to the bike because of the removed battery, i know rookie mistake) and the measured voltage was 8,5V as the manual suggested. Tomorrow im going for a ride and will update if something has changed. Could the damaged battery be the problem for the rough running after a while? Anyway thank you guys for your suggestions and stay tuned!!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted April 8, 2021 Moderator Share Posted April 8, 2021 Nope, most yam 2 strokes generate their own ignition power, you could chuck the battery in the bin and it would run fine. May well blow every bulb on the way back mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhat250 Posted April 8, 2021 Share Posted April 8, 2021 Check the spark plug for colour, will let you know carb conditions,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meem Posted April 10, 2021 Author Share Posted April 10, 2021 The test drive wont be happening this weekend because of the terrible weather in germany right now. Spark plug color is a strong blue one. Cant be the problem i guess. On thing that came to my mind: It could also be the ignition switch. There is a small spot where the bike is running terrible if you put the key in that position. Im gonna report back if the weather gets better and i made a test drive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted April 15, 2021 Moderator Share Posted April 15, 2021 On 4/10/2021 at 8:05 PM, Meem said: The test drive wont be happening this weekend because of the terrible weather in germany right now. Spark plug color is a strong blue one. Cant be the problem i guess. On thing that came to my mind: It could also be the ignition switch. There is a small spot where the bike is running terrible if you put the key in that position. Im gonna report back if the weather gets better and i made a test drive. That made me chuckle, the 'plug colour' does not actually mean the spark, although its nice to know its a strong blue spark. The plug colour check is actually referring to the electrode on the plug its self. White deposits and red specs on the electrode point to lean mixture and/or bag ignition timing. Ideally a light coffee brown is the ideal with black and sooty or black and oily being bad options obviously. Good news is that 100cc bikes are generally ridden hard (not a lot else to do with 10hp) so a plug chop (checking colour) is quite a good guide to engine running. It does throw the possible issue onto the carb, if the carb needs cleaning and some gunk has got somewhere it should not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Snakebite68 Posted April 15, 2021 Moderator Share Posted April 15, 2021 Check out this link for a visual on what Cynic is saying... Plug Colour Chart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts