Sheltie Bill Posted July 18, 2018 Posted July 18, 2018 Hi folks, i have a current drain of approx 0.3mA from my battery when the ignition is switched off. Here’s what I’v done so far: Live battery lead disconnected and meter connected in series between lead and battery with ignition off. 0.3 mA currrent observed. Pulled fuses one by one. When the fuse labelled “backup” fuse was disconnected the current drain dropped to about 0.03mA. ”backup” fuse feeds alarm and immobiliser and instrument light Alarm was disconnected and still draining 0.3mA. This would appear to point towards the immobiliser (or the inst light cluster which I have yet to eliminate). Regarding the immobiliser though 1) I cant find the thing to disconnect it to check - can anyone tell me where it’s located -Haynes manual not clear) and 2) could it be one if the other things connected to the imobiliser thats causing the drain eg fan, ECU, inst light? Also, is a drain of 0.3mA the amount draining per day or per hour? Any assistance appreciated. Cheers, Billy (Shetland).
Campaman Posted July 18, 2018 Posted July 18, 2018 If the immobiliser was easy to find and disconnect it would be a waste of time having one. This is the reason why if my bike with alarm and immobiliser is not being used for anything over two weeks it has to be hooked up to the Optimate charger.
Sheltie Bill Posted July 18, 2018 Author Posted July 18, 2018 Thanks for pointing out the obvious but that’s not the point of my post. The battery has an excessive drain on it which I’m trying to locate and eliminate Iv actually narrowed it down to the instrument cluster which is causing the ~0.3 mA drain. I’ll disconnect the red/green wire (the one on the faulty circuit) and see what’s not working after I do that. If it’s only the clock or something I don’t heed then problem solved. Otherwise it looks like an isolator in the battery live line that I can access easily. I live in Shetland and bike theft isn’t an issue here so no problem not having an alarm. It has an immobiliser anyway. Ta. B
Campaman Posted July 19, 2018 Posted July 19, 2018 I wouldn't class 0.3ma as a big drain, as I said I have to have my bike hooked up to a charger as the alarm/immobiliser and clock will kill the battery in a few weeks otherwise. What size is your battery in Ah ? And you might want to introduce your self in the new members section as a lot wont answer if you don't, its just classed as being polite to introduce yourself first.
Sheltie Bill Posted July 20, 2018 Author Posted July 20, 2018 Hi again. I’v been on 12 hr night shifts hence radio silence for a couple of days. Thanks I’ll try that - didn’t notice the introduction but. Web sites not particularly intuitiv and I’m new to it. Iv disconnected the red/green wire to the Inst cluster - the current pull has disappeared and everything still works. Bizarre. Ok, I’ll away and introduce myself when I get a mo. Sorry wasn’t meaning to be rude not doing so - just never saw it. Nit sure what Ah the battery is. I’d need to take it out again to check and the box it came in isn’t here so can’t check that. It’s a Yuasa though so not a cheapo. I’ll have s check and get back on here again once intros done. Maybe see you if you are ever up at the simmer dim Cheers billy
Moderator Airhead Posted July 22, 2018 Moderator Posted July 22, 2018 I was thinking that 0.0003Amp isn't much of a drain too, , given that certain things are powered all the time?
GkS Posted April 8, 2022 Posted April 8, 2022 Hello there, I am having exactly the same problem for a couple of years now (FZ6 S2 2009). My battery, after full charge doesn't survive more than a couple of weeks (at best) and when I tried to investigate, I ended up with the same findings as Bill. My instrument shows a discharge of 3mA when the key is in the OFF position. I've also seen that the drain has something to do with the "Backup" fuse...(clock, immobilizer and instrument). Has anybody solved this mystery? I know it's an old post, but it's the only discussion I can find online. Please share thoughts. Thank you
Recommended Posts