YBR125 Chain

[Skutter]

YBR125 2010

 

Hi folks,  hopefully the collective experience here will be able to help a newbie question ...

 

Just took my 125 out of storage to fix it up for my son and have a question re the chain.

Basically I am looking to replace the chain (couple of links seem stiff) but am not sure which replacement to go for ... there are a pile of chains out there ranging from very cheap to WTF :-). 

I looked at Wemoto and one of the chains had the note "if the original equipment chain was an o-ring or x-ring chain it must not be replaced with a non o-ring or non x-ring chain.  It must be replaced with a sealed chain of equal or greater strength" ... being honest, I have no idea how this affects my choice or if it is just standard blurb.

 

My questions are:

 

1.  Any thoughts on a decent chain specific for the bike?  I would rather not have to shorten it .

2. Do I need to replace the sprockets at the same time (front and rear are in good nick as the bike has really low mileage)?   Not sure if different chain needs a certain sprocket type/pattern.  I am also not looking to go up or down a tooth.  From the Haynes manual a sprocket switch doesn't look that bad but would rather avoid if not necessary.

3. The existing chain doesn't seem to have a split link on it so I presume (if I am just replacing the chain) I can just cut the chain or use some sort of tool to punch a link out?  I do have a pretty heavy set of bolt cutters if cutting it is Ok.  Is there any reason this is a bad idea?  Obviously if I was replacing sprockets the chain will just lift off.

 

Any help really appreciated

[Cynic]

No if you change sprockets it wont lift off. It passes through the frame.

Webmoto's standard option for the ybr will be fine. The fancy stuff only matters on the bigger bikes. Then only hype.

O ring or not is the basic choice.

Your ybr if on its original chain will need splitting. Grinder is cheaper for the use a splitter will get. The replacement should come with a split link.

[Skutter]

Thanks Cynic,

You are right about the chain routing - I hadn't followed the path.  If I can't find a decent blade for my grinder I will clip it with the bolt cutters.

I think I found the standard wemoto chain that you mentioned ( www.wemoto.com/bikes/Yamaha/ybr_125/10/chain_did_standard_grade )

Slightly concerned by a note in the Haynes manual that you should "never use a clip-type connecting link instead of a rivet-type link, except in an emergency" as the DID chain comes with a "spring link" ... are Haynes just being overly cautious?

Once I get a few bits I am going to dump the oil, swap the plug and swap out the old petrol and get it started.  I expect it just needs its throat cleared and a bit of a use of the brake disc but we will see.

[nayruf]

I would assume the Haynes manual means that it is only acceptable to use a split link in an, ‘O’ ring chain as a temporary emergency fix, as the split link would be the weakest part and so a likely fail point,

Chains designed to be run with a split link connection are fine and have been used for many years.

Be sure that the link is fitted the correct way round, closed end facing direction chain travel.

[Skutter]

Thanks Naruf,  I assumed it was a generic comment rather than dismissing all chains as I can't see a chain being allowed on the market that was fundamentally unsafe (not a great bit of drafting Mr Haynes!).  

Read a comment somewhere else re the link direction but will triple check I'm doing it right when I fit it .

Now waiting for postman and getting kettle ready for actually doing the work.

[Airhead]

yep nothing wrong with a split link used on a low power bike at all, just make sure the fish is swimming in a forward direction