JasonTZR2502MA Posted August 9, 2017 Posted August 9, 2017 Hi all, I am the new and proud owner of a blue and yellow TZR 250 2MA on a 1988 plate. At the moment I have no spark going to the HT leads and was curious if anybody had a good idea what the issue is? I have the tank off and am easily able to get to the box which I'm assuming is the coil pack in which the leads connect to etc. I'm no qualified mechanic as you have probably guessed but want to make this my little project. Thank you!
Moderator Cynic Posted August 9, 2017 Moderator Posted August 9, 2017 I would not go straight for the cdi apart from checking the connections as its generally reliable. Check the cheap stuff first. Because she shares the spark you need BOTH plugs and caps to be good, if one shorts you lose the spark. Make sure the coil is properly grounded and the orange wire to it is good. Make sure the kill switch is good and switched to run (laugh if you like but its been done, a lot). If you try to check for a spark, pull both plugs and just look for the spark on one plug, removing the other.
JasonTZR2502MA Posted August 10, 2017 Author Posted August 10, 2017 Thanks Cynic, some good advice, thank you. I have done the plugs and leads and they're like new. I will try the orange lead suggestion for sure. When you say the run switch is good, do you mean on or it could be faulty as I'm curious about this too? When I put my other bikes onto run they make a noise as if to connect or prepare for start but the TZR doesn't but I guess it could be that it's a kick start rather than electronic as my 4 strokes?
Moderator Cynic Posted August 10, 2017 Moderator Posted August 10, 2017 Yep no fuel pumps or faf with these although you should, if the battery is charged hear the powervalve self clean. You can hear the servo do its thing. I was just making sure on the kill switch. Check it works with a tester so you can trust it (no spark could be ANYTHING). As far as starting goes. If its a stock motor in good nick you should be able to start it BY HAND. Certainly can with my TDR.
JasonTZR2502MA Posted August 10, 2017 Author Posted August 10, 2017 Yes, I hear a servo type sound when I turn on the ignition so I guess that works. Do you recommend a pocket tester for the run switch or would I be able to tell visually by taking it apart? thanks for your help!
Moderator Cynic Posted August 10, 2017 Moderator Posted August 10, 2017 Just put a meter on it. The connections will be behind the headlight.
JasonTZR2502MA Posted August 15, 2017 Author Posted August 15, 2017 Many thanks for your replies, I've run a multimeter and all appears to be fine but could not check the ypvs or cdi unit as they are sealed but it does look like someone has had the ypvs unit apart as was glued together so could either of these units be causing the problem and if so, how do you check them? Thanks!
Moderator Cynic Posted August 15, 2017 Moderator Posted August 15, 2017 Replacement. You wont or very unlikely to find anybody willing to swap their good one either. There could be a wiring issue there so you got to suck this one up. The pv wont stop the bike running. You can unplug it and the bike wont care. There are companies selling units on a service exchange basis. So your not stuck.
JasonTZR2502MA Posted August 16, 2017 Author Posted August 16, 2017 thanks for the feedback, OK, so I can rule out the YPVS so that's another tick and all wiring lumes appear to be OK. I'm thinking CDI, stator, side stand switch or neutral switch. Thoughts my friend, can I rule any of these out too? appreciate your help its been bl00dy brilliant! :-)
blackhat250 Posted August 16, 2017 Posted August 16, 2017 unplug the stator, and get some readings from the soarse coil, pulser coils,, if these are good, then its the cdi box,[ if you can swap it out] its an ilimination process
JasonTZR2502MA Posted August 16, 2017 Author Posted August 16, 2017 ok, sounds good, do I kick start it over for the current check or just have ignition and run switch on? by the way, I cannot locate the side stand switch so I'm thinking it has been removed...
blackhat250 Posted August 16, 2017 Posted August 16, 2017 Ok, its Ohms readings on the coils,, go on utube, and see how to settup your meter, ,then soarse the values from a manual,, = ie 10.ohms ect, on each coil,
Moderator Cynic Posted August 16, 2017 Moderator Posted August 16, 2017 LOL, nope no kicking at all, just resistance values from the coils. Well you could try measuring the voltage generated when you kick it but it wont tell you much. I have a TDR service manual, not digging round in the garage now but I will pop the values up tomorrow. Only difference between the TZR and the TDR engines is first gear ratio and the cdi map. Oh, stop looking for a sidestand switch, there isn't one. No link to neutral either. Your bike is from the days we were expected to have the intelligence to put the stand up without help. 1
JasonTZR2502MA Posted August 17, 2017 Author Posted August 17, 2017 ha ha, thank you :-) I've got hold of a manual and it stated a side stand switch with a illustrated pic and everything but could I find the damn thing? Now I know why, because it didn't have one! I'm purchasing a multimeter today as I'm sure my leccy friend is getting sick of me finding other parts for him to check! :-)
JasonTZR2502MA Posted August 20, 2017 Author Posted August 20, 2017 On 8/16/2017 at 10:22 PM, Cynic said: LOL, nope no kicking at all, just resistance values from the coils. Well you could try measuring the voltage generated when you kick it but it wont tell you much. I have a TDR service manual, not digging round in the garage now but I will pop the values up tomorrow. Only difference between the TZR and the TDR engines is first gear ratio and the cdi map. Oh, stop looking for a sidestand switch, there isn't one. No link to neutral either. Your bike is from the days we were expected to have the intelligence to put the stand up without help. so, manual incorrect then?
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