Jump to content

Help me with my dt175mx 1979


jackpollard6
This post is 2821 days old and we'd rather you create a new post instead of adding to this one. You can't reply in this post.

Recommended Posts

Hello I need some help with my bike I brought a replacement cdi (one from eBay) a while ago and managed to get it started but the bike got really hot really quick also sound really tapping top end I also noticed the carb was leaking fuel out the over flow so I rebuilt the carb got it ultra sonic cleaned and checked reeds.

since I have done this it's nearly impossible to start only starts from cold being bumped but when hot will start 1 or 2 kicks done a compression test around 145 -150 so that's fine when it was running I sprayed carb cleaning on crank seal no change.

i don't think it's fuel related because I sprayed easy start straight into the cyclinder when cold kicked and kick and not even a slight sign it was going to start so I have the right stator? Someone has told me it could be wrong? Also my cdi only has 6 wires coming from it? Is this right and the last thing I know I've gone on abit! 

My stator was bolted on with the slot all the way to one side could this be the cause of impossible starting? And help will be appreciated 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you want an ad-free experience? Join today and help support the Yamaha Owners Club.
  • Moderator

you could do with checking the timing but you'll need specialist equipment

 

a dial gauge 'DTI' to check your timing mark 1.8mm BTDC

and just to be sure..a strobe light

 

I'd have a look at the cylinder head too, to make sure it's not been skimmed which would increase the compression if the exhaust port is standard!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello mate thanks for the reply I don't think it's been skimmed but the exhaust has been raised apparently the previous owner told me and I've stripped the head and barrel down and it's pretty much brand new still has cross hatching on the barrel 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes mate I'm pretty sure it does I've literally tried everything getting fuel spark is there unsure whether it's abit intermittent it's really bright then slightly smaller got compression and checked crankseals 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My engines in work ATM and all the tools are there so I'll get that set there's no line for some reason there is on the casing but not on the stator I can see where it was bolted before though.

one more quick question as you seem to know what your on about my bike is the 175mx so I think it should have the 7 wire cdi but I have a 6 wire cdi? The red cable is the only one that isn't plugged in 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderator

the early bikes had a 7 wire stator and CDI and the later ones had a 6 wire stator and CDI...you have a mis-match, unfortunately I cannot give more clarity with pictures because all my pics are on photobucket and that seems to be unusable nowadays...very frustrating!

Copyof000_0283.jpg

DT175MXCDI_1.jpg

100_1006.jpg

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a 6 wire cdi but there are 7 wires on the loom the bike had a 6 wire cdi when I bought it and it had no spark so I replaced it with a new one from eBay but was the same that I took off

 imagejpegimagepngthe first pic is my cdi and the red wire from the loom and the second pic looks like it's exactly the same as my stator 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderator

cant see the pictures...can you? and what about this new CDI? they are nearly 40 year old bikes and you bought a new CDI :o   a chinese repro of very dubious quality??

 

Timing marks on a mk1 (mine) 3 lines on the rotor and a line on the casing, you should be able to make them out on this picture, and by the way...the mk1 one just has two holes in the side as you can see, the mk2 has four and they are quite different

100_1023.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderator

you don't need lines on the stator, there wont be any, sorry I might have misled you there

 

so at exactly 1.8mm BTDC the central line on the rotor should align with the casing line ...then you know these are accurate at 1.8, then strobe it and see if the ignition is right and adjust if it isn't by removing the rotor and repositioning the stator accordingly, you may have to do this several times but the last time you do it...get that rotor nut torqued up properly because if it comes loose it can trash your stator coils!

 

 

no pictures...NO

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Who's Online (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...