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Posted

Hello I need some help with my bike I brought a replacement cdi (one from eBay) a while ago and managed to get it started but the bike got really hot really quick also sound really tapping top end I also noticed the carb was leaking fuel out the over flow so I rebuilt the carb got it ultra sonic cleaned and checked reeds.

since I have done this it's nearly impossible to start only starts from cold being bumped but when hot will start 1 or 2 kicks done a compression test around 145 -150 so that's fine when it was running I sprayed carb cleaning on crank seal no change.

i don't think it's fuel related because I sprayed easy start straight into the cyclinder when cold kicked and kick and not even a slight sign it was going to start so I have the right stator? Someone has told me it could be wrong? Also my cdi only has 6 wires coming from it? Is this right and the last thing I know I've gone on abit! 

My stator was bolted on with the slot all the way to one side could this be the cause of impossible starting? And help will be appreciated 

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  • Moderator
Posted

you could do with checking the timing but you'll need specialist equipment

 

a dial gauge 'DTI' to check your timing mark 1.8mm BTDC

and just to be sure..a strobe light

 

I'd have a look at the cylinder head too, to make sure it's not been skimmed which would increase the compression if the exhaust port is standard!

Posted

Hello mate thanks for the reply I don't think it's been skimmed but the exhaust has been raised apparently the previous owner told me and I've stripped the head and barrel down and it's pretty much brand new still has cross hatching on the barrel 

Posted

Yes mate I'm pretty sure it does I've literally tried everything getting fuel spark is there unsure whether it's abit intermittent it's really bright then slightly smaller got compression and checked crankseals 

  • Moderator
Posted

I'd check the timing then but like I said you need the tools for the job, although you might see a line on one of the slots and a line on the crank case as a guide?

Posted

My engines in work ATM and all the tools are there so I'll get that set there's no line for some reason there is on the casing but not on the stator I can see where it was bolted before though.

one more quick question as you seem to know what your on about my bike is the 175mx so I think it should have the 7 wire cdi but I have a 6 wire cdi? The red cable is the only one that isn't plugged in 

  • Moderator
Posted

the early bikes had a 7 wire stator and CDI and the later ones had a 6 wire stator and CDI...you have a mis-match, unfortunately I cannot give more clarity with pictures because all my pics are on photobucket and that seems to be unusable nowadays...very frustrating!

Copyof000_0283.jpg

DT175MXCDI_1.jpg

100_1006.jpg

 

 

 

Posted

I've just looked at my picture and it's a 6 wire stator? So maybe I have the wrong stator or cdi but surely it wouldn't run thanks for your help mate! 

Posted

I have a 6 wire cdi but there are 7 wires on the loom the bike had a 6 wire cdi when I bought it and it had no spark so I replaced it with a new one from eBay but was the same that I took off

 imagejpegimagepngthe first pic is my cdi and the red wire from the loom and the second pic looks like it's exactly the same as my stator 

  • Moderator
Posted

cant see the pictures...can you? and what about this new CDI? they are nearly 40 year old bikes and you bought a new CDI :o   a chinese repro of very dubious quality??

 

Timing marks on a mk1 (mine) 3 lines on the rotor and a line on the casing, you should be able to make them out on this picture, and by the way...the mk1 one just has two holes in the side as you can see, the mk2 has four and they are quite different

100_1023.jpg

Posted

Have they loaded now? And I've got the line on my flywheel and in the casing just not on the stator god knows why thanks for your help though mate really appreciate it 

  • Moderator
Posted

you don't need lines on the stator, there wont be any, sorry I might have misled you there

 

so at exactly 1.8mm BTDC the central line on the rotor should align with the casing line ...then you know these are accurate at 1.8, then strobe it and see if the ignition is right and adjust if it isn't by removing the rotor and repositioning the stator accordingly, you may have to do this several times but the last time you do it...get that rotor nut torqued up properly because if it comes loose it can trash your stator coils!

 

 

no pictures...NO

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Ok mate thanks for all you help my engine is stripped ATM but will let you know if I can get it working thanks again!!! Top bloke 

Posted

I want to get the bike on the road for the summer so I will keep and eye out for a second hand one on eBay just unsure what the correct one is I think it's the 7 wire mx version 

  • Moderator
Posted

is your bike a mk1 or mk2, mk1 has round tube swing arm and oil tank on the left,(7 wire) mk2 has square tube swing arm and oil tank on the right (6 wire)

Posted

My bike has a square swing arm but it was changed to this so I guess it's a mk1 also when I got my bike it was all striped back I'll get some photos later 

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