Posted May 29, 200618 yr I'm pickup up an XT550 on Saturday, which I want to restore to it's former glory. Now, how would I know if it's a J or a K XT? What's the main difference between these 2 models? Regards, Spyker
June 7, 200618 yr Moderator 'Bout the only diff I can come up with.......is that the J is an '82 model (like mine )....& the K was from '83.......the only 2 years the 550 was produced. Hope you like it as much as I like mine? Been doing ALOT of miles on the old girl lately with my new job situation...... It just doesn't miss a beat!
June 8, 200618 yr Author 'Bout the only diff I can come up with.......is that the J is an '82 model (like mine )....& the K was from '83.......the only 2 years the 550 was produced. Hope you like it as much as I like mine? Been doing ALOT of miles on the old girl lately with my new job situation...... It just doesn't miss a beat! I'm actually restoring the bike at the moment. I've completely stripped everything down to bolts and nuts. The frame and swingarm are at the powder coaters at the moment. I've taken some photos and will post them when I've completed the assembly. I've found 2 gears so far thats missing teeth on the gear. The sleeve will be rebored and a new piston kit installed. Can't wait to get it going!
July 26, 200618 yr One of the main differences is in the carbs. The K model YDIS carb is identifiable in that it has an afterburner unit on the primary stage carb to prevent the motor leaning out on fast throttle shut off at speed and backfiring. Other mods include a revised kickstart gear, (original was Nylon and prone to stripping) etc and improved ignition units / ignition train. To my knowlege they are all interswappable though. Not much in it.
July 26, 200618 yr Moderator One of the main differences is in the carbs. The K model YDIS carb is identifiable in that it has an afterburner unit on the primary stage carb to prevent the motor leaning out on fast throttle shut off at speed and backfiring. Other mods include a revised kickstart gear, (original was Nylon and prone to stripping) etc and improved ignition units / ignition train. To my knowlege they are all interswappable though. Not much in it. Interesting..........My J model has all of those!
July 27, 200618 yr YH you redneck, your bike is so old and modified it probably doesn't have many of the original parts left. But the closest to proof of difference I can give you is to look at the online microfische... here is the carb for starters on a J... you will notice... no after burner good link.... http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/oem.asp An the K carb..... Note the after burner on the top right parts 45 etc Stick to buses you twat Bruce! You should return to your Vespa roots keep well pete
July 27, 200618 yr Moderator YH you redneck, your bike is so old and modified it probably doesn't have many of the original parts left. My Neck actually is a bit Red these days Bruce...........from being SunBurnt! Surprisingly.......my 550 doesn't backfire when I get off the WFO throttle position Thanx for that clarification though........I stand corrected
July 27, 200618 yr Boring Twat Bruce! Just wait, I am going to post a ride report of the 618 from Lymm to Altrincham and back. That should keep your attention riveted
July 27, 200618 yr Moderator Tell me this Bruce...... Did you ever have problems with your 550 leaking oil from the frame backbone? I've heard this is a fairly common issue with the 550...... I've fixed mine once already, but now it looks as if I'll have to do that again as I've just noticed it starting to leak from the same spot
July 27, 200618 yr To be honest, no, I never experienced that problem. I would be hazarding a wild guess here, but does your rear shock ever bottom out heavily? The rear shock weld joints (and subsequent) in that section may have made the metal brittle. Alternatively if the bushes in the swingarm wore unevenly at any point this creates a twist in the swing arm action that will come up through the bars below. The whole bikes frame and rigidity centres arount that section and so is subject to fatigue. BTW if at all viable use silver solder rather than welding it to plug any weeping to avoid causing the joint becoming more brittle.
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