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YBR Fuel/warm weather issue


Pennack
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Hi guys and girls first post here. This is a long one but I thought I should include as much information as possible, especially seeing as there are several other threads about this particular fault with varying degrees of success & failure...

I acquired a 2012 YBR Custom recently, haven't been out on it much, but I am struggling with the fuel pump/warm weather issue that seems to be a common thing on these bikes..

I've replaced the pump itself, which included draining and cleaning the tank, and I thought bingo this works, but after being out on her for 10-15 minutes, when she gets warmed up fully, the engine begins to idle rough and will cut out at idle, there is a general lack of power throughout the rev range too. Once she has continued stalling for a while she will eventually not start, and the fuel pump won't prime as normal when the ignition key is switched to 'ON'.

The only time when she has been reliable was when I was caught out at about 3am one morning last week, when it rained and thundered so much I thought the roads were going to turn to rivers and carry me out to the English Channel.

With the cold weather and rain described above this leads me to believe it is definitely a temperature-related problem. I started her this morning just for a quick idle but once it had warmed up outside the tank refused to prime again.

A guy at a local Yamaha dealer said that I could try opening the metal fuel pump itself (seems impossible?! They looked completely sealed as a unit?!) and sanding down the propeller/component(s) so that there is less chance of it expanding, and therefore catching or stopping during use. However, as I have replaced the pump already and am having the same problems with both so I don't think this will solve the issue of it not priming.

No engine management warning lights. Less than 6k on the clock, I have changed the spark plug, completed an oil and air filter change, tightened the chain and I usually keep her off-road underneath a cover. I will give some of the bits a spray with WD now and again if I haven't time to give her a thorough clean. There has been a 1/3 to 3/4 full tank with fresh fuel in and I've also chucked some petrol additive/cleaner in there too.

Going to test some of the wiring tomorrow, specifically going to have a good look at the ignition coil, should there be anything else I can check? I am starting to get to the limit of my (already limited) knowledge with these kind of machines, there must be something that tells the fuel pump to start working, my guess is that whatever that is starts to fail whenever it is warm, so the pump sends less fuel and then the bike just continues to stall and cut out.

Thankyou for reading this essay, I really do hope someone can help, I've just done my CBT and want to continue learning so I can complete my DAS!

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's fuel injected. I've taken it down to the throttle body, gave it a quick clean and put her back together and she seemed to run ok. I haven't really given it any high revs and haven't tried starting her on a warm/hot day (as we are now in to October!). I have a new fuel pump coming and am thinking of replacing the ignition coil if I can find a decent one to buy online.

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Checked the exhaust for leaks? My old suzuki stalled and ran shit when warm and that was due to a leaking exhaust joint

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  • 2 weeks later...

I think the exhaust is fine but I'll have another good look at it tomorrow.

I'd taken it down to the fuel injector and cleaned everything. I *thought* the problem had been fixed as I had a couple of long drives across London this weekend and everything seemed fine, however, on my way back home just now she started to cut out again whilst stationary at the lights.

It was standing in the rain the other day for a couple of hours, but I still managed around 90 minutes of ride time so I don't think there is any water getting in anywhere. Plus it still starts first time.

I just don't think the bike likes high revs or being hot. I can hear the fuel pump whining too.

Think it'll have to go to a garage this week, as I'm pretty much almost out of ideas (and patience!)

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The Fast idle solenoid sensor resistance, fell within the range given in the Haynes manual (34.8). There is a reading coming from the loom side of the connection with the ignition ON so I think that's all good.

The exhaust I have actually is a knock-off cheap replacement made by 'Yamana'(!!!!), (I did wonder why I've seen most YBR's with black exhausts and mine is silver) and there is no port for the breather pipe, so currently the pipe is just dangling there. Apparently you can bung it up and it'll be fine and it doesn't matter for the MOT. I wonder if this can cause some kind of imbalance in the air box, but I doubt it because it's an open-loop system?

Exhausts on eBay are expensive. Genuine ones are rare and also expensive. One from the dealer would be extortionate I'm sure, and I'd be lucky to find a mint one from a breakers.

This is all making me want to pass my DAS and just get a bigger bike.

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I'd bung up that pipe and see what happens. Just kink it over and secure with a couple of zip ties

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