Malleus Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 So I have not had much time to trouble shoot this, but any pointers appreciated. (sorry it is another 'weird noise' question) On idle the engine seems to make a noise that is slightly 'gritty' - kind of like a dried pea is in there. Between 3-4k revs it makes a kind of grating sound. Initially I checked coolant and engine oil when I arrived at work after it had warmed up. The oil was two colours - is this normal? Black on the bottom and clear on top. Don't think I have seen this before. Is something else leaking in there? (Not possible right - as clutch/gears all share the same oil - yes... I am inept when it comes to most stuff inside the engine ) - Other than the noise there is no difference in performance. I do have another issue with battery but I will leave that for another day! I would also mention that the stator cover was recently changed (which I thought may be causing my battery issue) but could it also be linked to this in some way. (Again I have no clue what goes on in there really - beyond my very basic understanding of electricity/magnetism and combustion engines....) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slice Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 Hi Malleus, ok if the oil is 2 colours it usually means it's been contaminated with something, it's probably water getting into the crank case so you need to drain the oil out and check to see if you have a water leak. The noise is probably because the oil has failed and your rubbing metal to metal and you should do the oil change asap, when did you last change the oil? Do this today if you can, is the engine getting hotter than normal? friction inside the engine can get really bad if the oil has failed. Some of the reasons the water gets into the engine, a leak from the coolant, if it's stood outside in all weathers with no cover can drive the rain into the engine, some arsehole has taken the cap off and poured water (or worse) into the engine. Let us know how you get on mate. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malleus Posted April 7, 2016 Author Share Posted April 7, 2016 Hi Slice. Thanks for the advice. Is there an obvious way to check for a water leak? I am happy draining, replacing oil etc. Once it is all out would a leak be obvious? Change was last done in February when the cover was changed. Temps did not seem to be up. I noticed this after leaving bike in underground car park whilst I was away. It was pretty dusty but don't think this could have made its way into the oil. Will try and see if I can pick up some oil and a filter today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slice Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 If you take the top off of the radiator and look inside to see if the water has a sheen to it, like oil on the surface of a puddle in the sun, if it does then that's your problem solved, well apart from the repair of course, most obvious is the water level, has it gone down? If when you drain the oil you have a white sludge either in the oil on the oil filter or around the inside of the oil filler cap then that will also tell you that you have a water leak. Can't say much more without seeing it mate. good luck. Just thought, if you pour the used oil into a clear container then let it settle you will see the water floating on the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malleus Posted April 7, 2016 Author Share Posted April 7, 2016 Thanks will have a look - good point - if there is water in the oil I should be able to see it! Coolant level seems to have stayed the same. But I suppose if it has only just started leaking I would not notice. Update: So my plan atm is to take it home, drain oil ASAP to avoid any damage if coolant is floating about. Check drained oil for contaminants/ oil filter. Drain and flush coolant reservoir and radiator and check if any liquid is draining into engine casing. Replace oil/oil filter and coolant. If anyone thinks I should take any extra steps/am missing anything let me know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KirriePete Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 Someone has to ask, so I will: are you sure there's 2 different colour liquids in there? You're not just seeing black oil halfway up the sight glass and empty space above? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted April 7, 2016 Moderator Share Posted April 7, 2016 My thoughts too KP. Generally oil contaminated by water in any quantity turns into a hideous white gunk that takes an age to sort out. It certainly wont split. How old? How many miles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malleus Posted April 7, 2016 Author Share Posted April 7, 2016 Hmmm.. I was pretty certain I could see the bubble at the top in a clearish liquid and then black at the bottom. When I have put it flat on the stand when I got back it did seem all black.. but it is raised now so oil is above max on sight glass. It's late 2013, 3k miles. I will heat it up a bit and double check tomorrow or Sunday. (Too much work today and there is beer to drink now) It is possible that I am seeing correlation where there is none. Someone mentioned there are issues with cam chain tensioner rattling (apparently yamaha are on 3rd or 4th version of the part) will look at this also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malleus Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 After checking videos of people with similar 'rattling sounds' I am fairly certain it is coming from cam chain and is most likely due to the tensioner. Now I don't know anything about this, but from what I have read these auto tensioners can be affected by oil pressure - so will double check that and change anyway. Not sure when the filter was last changed so that is probably good to go anyway. I cant find any info on an official recall but apparently those who bought these bikes new have had these replaced when they started rattling - looking at the part number if I buy this I will actually get the 4th version so that seems like a lot of changes to a part over less than 3 years. But if there is no official recall I imagine it is safe to drive and will not damage the engine? Will have a word with the dealer anyway and see if I can get a freebie 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malleus Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 So just as an update. Having changed oil and coolant, started up no rattling. After 30/40 mins of riding a very slight rattle though not sure if now I am just listening out for it more. But no idea whether it is resolved. Having read about others who tried to get this addressed under warranty some dealers apparently just did an oil change which solved the rattling temporarily. Will see if it comes back. Got a slot booked in with dealer and will see if I can get a discounted replacement CCT. And also should say - there was no weird stuff in the oil! My bad - was just rushing too much! Seeing things..(In case someone does have an issue with contaminated oil and comes here looking for solution) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malleus Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 So after much deliberation and some tinkering it appears that any adjustments to my CCT will only last about 40 minutes before it becomes loose again. So I have gone and purchased a new CCT. Service manual says: I need to 'remove the 'timing mark accessing bolt and crankshaft cover' (fine ok) then a. Turn crankshaft counterclockwise (FINE) b. when piston #1 is at BTDC125 degrees on the compression stroke, align BTDC125 degrees mark 'a' with the generator rotor mark 'b' - BTDC125 on the compression stroke can be found when the camshaft lobes are turned away from each other ( huh..no idea - but in simple language I assume this means turn until the two marks in the hole line up....?) Anyone who has read my posts will know I am not overly technical so this makes no sense to me - but my main questions are why do I have to do this just to removed the CCT? and if I do remove the CCT cover and crankshaft end cover will I need to drain oil first? (not sure how silly these questions are!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhat250 Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 Aye malleus " if I mind right, [ when I did my Zed 900] . the two cam shafts have a mark,[ arrow or dot.] , . and they either faced one another , or were 180¬ DEGREE appart, . when flywheeli s at TDC, THESE ARE WHEN YOUR FITTING AS NEW CHAIN, but , line them up as manaul says, before your remove the tensioner, .nothing should move, if you don't turn engine when old tensioner is removed, go on you tube, watch a few vids, . listen carefully, and learn ,, 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevtheRev Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 Hi Malleus ! The reason they tell you to have the marks lined up as per instructions is because when both valves are closed there is no (or least ) pressure on the valves , chain , tensioner etc , and so the chain will be less likely to jump a tooth when the tensioner is removed , and much easier to spot and reset if it does . 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malleus Posted June 27, 2016 Author Share Posted June 27, 2016 Thanks guys. Just kind of nervous around the engine - not really an area I have messed about with before - I will give it a go and see what happens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finnerz89 Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 Don't forget replacement gaskets or some liquid gasket for any engine covers you remove! Sent from my E6553 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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