Variomatic Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 I've got the cylinder if and was very pleased by it's condition, you can still see the factory hone lines, however, one area at the read (intake side) of the cylinder has some very lite score lines, you can't feel them when you run your nail over them, so as far as I can tell I could get away with a cylinder hone, but I want to be 100% sure so I thought I'd ask others, below are two links to pictures of the cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted March 12, 2016 Moderator Share Posted March 12, 2016 That's not really anything to worry over, you should get the measuring kit out to make sure its still round and thee are no wear ridges. You can see hone hatching on cylinders that are out of spec on ovality because they wear front and rear. Look at the top of the cyl, you can see the combustion area and where the rings have paused at the top of their stroke, there will be another point like that at the bottom of the bore too. The vertical marks are nothing, measure up then you know for sure. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted March 12, 2016 Moderator Share Posted March 12, 2016 I'd be tempted to give it a light hone just to bed in the rings. doesn't really open up the bore too much and will help with oil retension 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Variomatic Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 1 hour ago, drewpy said: I'd be tempted to give it a light hone just to bed in the rings. doesn't really open up the bore too much and will help with oil retension Exactly what I was thinking, ordered a hone and it's on it's way. This is quickly turning into a "lets do it and hope" job, but we've all done one of those in the past. Like Cynic said, I should really inspect it, but I don't have the measuring tools to do that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevtheRev Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 You'll just need to take the glaze off the bore , a very light hone . A rub with some Scotchbrite would do the job . I've had a new ring break because I neglected to do this . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Variomatic Posted March 15, 2016 Author Share Posted March 15, 2016 On 14/03/2016 at 9:29 AM, KevtheRev said: You'll just need to take the glaze off the bore , a very light hone . A rub with some Scotchbrite would do the job . I've had a new ring break because I neglected to do this . It takes a lot longer for the new rings to seat on a used cylinder, since I'm honing it do you think that'll still be a problem? I'm thinking since the bore would have fresh hone marks it'd probably be the standard 500 mile break in. Last tine I put in new rings and didn't hone (admittedly this was a chainsaw but still)I managed to damage the rings and it was just as bad as before, but I was £60 down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted March 15, 2016 Moderator Share Posted March 15, 2016 Sorry but all that breaking in nonsense doesent wash with me. 30 or 40 miles to make sure nothing will fall off then use as normal. And yes thats exactly what i did with my TDR after a £500 rebuild. After less than 100 miles it was off for a 700mile camping weekend. Your hardly backing it in to Beckets bouncing the limiter.It just burns up warranty time. As to the honing. Did you yourself not say you could still see the old honing marks. Light scrub and be done with it. Last time i did it i used some 1200 wet and dry . Just like keying some gloss on a door. Then put it together and use it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted March 15, 2016 Moderator Share Posted March 15, 2016 3 hours ago, Cynic said: Sorry but all that breaking in nonsense doesent wash with me. 30 or 40 miles to make sure nothing will fall off then use as normal. And yes thats exactly what i did with my TDR after a £500 rebuild. After less than 100 miles it was off for a 700mile camping weekend. Your hardly backing it in to Beckets bouncing the limiter.It just burns up warranty time. As to the honing. Did you yourself not say you could still see the old honing marks. Light scrub and be done with it. Last time i did it i used some 1200 wet and dry . Just like keying some gloss on a door. Then put it together and use it. same for me, first 20 miles on mineral oil (this was a 4T), just use it fairly hard it to bed in the rings, drop oil and then put in your fave oil and use a as normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Variomatic Posted March 16, 2016 Author Share Posted March 16, 2016 15 hours ago, Cynic said: Sorry but all that breaking in nonsense doesent wash with me. 30 or 40 miles to make sure nothing will fall off then use as normal. And yes thats exactly what i did with my TDR after a £500 rebuild. After less than 100 miles it was off for a 700mile camping weekend. Your hardly backing it in to Beckets bouncing the limiter.It just burns up warranty time. As to the honing. Did you yourself not say you could still see the old honing marks. Light scrub and be done with it. Last time i did it i used some 1200 wet and dry . Just like keying some gloss on a door. Then put it together and use it. 12 hours ago, drewpy said: same for me, first 20 miles on mineral oil (this was a 4T), just use it fairly hard it to bed in the rings, drop oil and then put in your fave oil and use a as normal. I'll probably be gentle with it anyway, maybe not the full 500 miles, but probably just be gentle for a few days or so till I know all is well, then go back to spanking it as usual. Since I have a hone I may as well, just a light one, obviously. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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