Moderator Cynic Posted May 7, 2016 Moderator Share Posted May 7, 2016 Nope, if just the rear indicators are lit dimly then you have other wiring issues, they only meet at the indicator switch nowhere else. I would suggest an earth issue in the tail. Do you have running/brake light issues too. Your also not reading your meter properly, your testing the potential difference at that point in the circuit not the voltage per se. The 11v constant you can see is the 'potential voltage' at that point, it is not doing anything or going anywhere because either a switch is closed or there is a greater 'potential' stopping it. When its 'flashing' that is when the voltage is doing its work, it is still 11v but now it is 11v ( showing as 0 )doing work going down the line and this will bring on the bulb. It really does help to think of it like pipework. ie The actual indicators proper have big pipes with lots of flow, when this water is flowing the little pipe from the dash hasn't the pressure to get into the party so does nothing (light off). When the relay cuts off (big flow stops) the pipes to the indicators (earths) are still there and open and now the little pipe can happily empty into the indicator line bringing the light on, not really enough pressure to light anything else but it will earth out again bringing on the dash light. Ah hang on you have led's, these need nowhere near the flow to light em up and the little pipe from the idiot light will do it. If the dash led didn't help then stick the resistor in the dash light circuit, after the bulb before the relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YAMAHA21 Posted May 7, 2016 Author Share Posted May 7, 2016 I don't have rear/brake light issues. If I need to get some resistors then I might just buy 4 and put them next to the indicators as most people do. The rear stay dimly lit and so do the front but the front are nearly not lit at all where as the back are lit brighter than the front. The front indicators are bigger than the back and have more led's so it would make sense for the smaller indicators to be lit brighter seen as they need even less current right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted May 7, 2016 Moderator Share Posted May 7, 2016 Yep, bigger needs more power. Even with led's You only need the resistor for the idiot light, its proven by everything working fine with the idiot light bulb out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YAMAHA21 Posted May 7, 2016 Author Share Posted May 7, 2016 With the idiot bulb out it works in the sense that they flash correctly but the back indicators still stay dimly lit however the front don't stay lit at all in-between flashes. When you plug the led idiot light in, the front indicators now also stay dimly lit as well as the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted May 7, 2016 Moderator Share Posted May 7, 2016 There is something else wrong then, possibly some tracking in the switches or the relay is allowing some power to pass. Do the lights stay lit with the relay disconnected. You may need an electronic one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UK_DT Posted July 4, 2016 Share Posted July 4, 2016 Late post, but thought would add it all the same! I used this relay when I added LED indicators to my bike: Electronic flasher relay Only issue I had was that the pins don't tally with the standard relay's socket, so some manual re-configuring was required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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