I'm working on a 1995 dt175 which has been sitting around for a few years without being started. When in gear the bike will not roll when the clutch lever is pulled in as the clutch plates are sticking. I've tried most suggestions to free it up (clutch cable adjustment, rocking it in gear, cable tied the clutch lever in overnight, rode it around dumping the clutch in and out at revs) but it basically the hasn't changed. So I'm guessing the clutch fibre plates have had it. 

So i'm looking at replacing/rebuilding the clutch. I want to do it properly once. So is it good enough to just replace the fibre plates or should I be looking at other parts while the clutch is disassembled?

Is there a link somewhere showing the procedure for clutch rebuild/installation?

Cheers,

Mallet

Just take the rh engine cover off. 

Then the pressure plate. Now separate the plates by hand and it should be fine when you put it back together.

Or just tape the clutch lever back against the bars and leave it over night can work to.

Or just tape the clutch lever back against the bars and leave it over night can work to.

Have done that, didn't work. Going to pull it apart like cynic suggested.

Just take the rh engine cover off. 

Then the pressure plate. Now separate the plates by hand and it should be fine when you put it back together.

Once that plates are separated would you suggest any sort of cleaning/brushing of the fibre plates ?

 

Once that plates are separated would you suggest any sort of cleaning/brushing of the fibre plates ?

 

clean the steel plates with some scotchbrite,, just wipe the friction plates, brush oil on them when re-assembling.

Take note that the little 'pips' on the edge of the steel plates are 72 degrees from each other

 

360 degs / 5 plates = 72 degrees.

This will prevent unnecessary vibration

Once that plates are separated would you suggest any sort of cleaning/brushing of the fibre plates ?

 

Airhead has that covered, they haven't stuck together in the glue sense, they have been compressed for too long so the oil is squished out of the friction pads a little bit. There will be a tiny bit of suction as a result when they try to separate as oil wants to go back into the friction plates. Again only a tiny tiny amount.

Over the surface area of the clutch and with little movement that tiny amount becomes enough to stick the whole shebang together. Nothing wrong its doing what it does.

Just needs using.

Just take the rh engine cover off. 

Then the pressure plate. Now separate the plates by hand and it should be fine when you put it back together.

Ok it's apart, plates separated very easily but the clutch basket looks fairly grooved. Is it ok to file them down, what are the drawbacks with doing this. A new basket cost $350 aud.

Thats a state isnt it, yeah file them smooth it's all you can do

That must have rattled like a bastard, as above, out with your file and have at it, you could see what it would cost the fill the tracks with new material and then file it back to original, if you know someone with a welder and the skill to lay down a descent seam then you could get it back to original.

clean the steel plates with some scotchbrite,, just wipe the friction plates, brush oil on them when re-assembling.

Take note that the little 'pips' on the edge of the steel plates are 72 degrees from each other

 

360 degs / 5 plates = 72 degrees.

This will prevent unnecessary vibration

I took some photos of the steel plates during disassembly, if i understand what your saying then these plates are not positioned correctly. 

The pips are the single bump on each plate? In the 1st pic the pip is around 1 o'clock, yes?

yIP. your  getting there,  friction plate ,then steel,  mind the pressure plate,  [ outside one]  move it round till it fits proper,

Edited June 30, 20159 yr by blackhat250

Yep those 'blips should be 120 degrees apart, (at 12 o'clock, 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock).

When you file them smooth finish with a swiss file or wet and dry. If you don't leave them nice and smooth you may as well leave them be.

Yep those 'blips should be 120 degrees apart, (at 12 o'clock, 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock).

When you file them smooth finish with a swiss file or wet and dry. If you don't leave them nice and smooth you may as well leave them be.

120 degrees? i got 5 steel plates, should'nt that be 72 degrees apart as airhead said ?

Im quoting the manual. If you want to try and get 72deg crack on.

 

Im quoting the manual. If you want to try and get 72deg crack on.

 

ok, got hold of a manual. I've actual got six plates which lines up with manual which says to space them 60 deg. 

So the basket has been filed down, plates cleaned, clutch reassembled and clutch adjusted to lineup with the alignment pip. Took it for a test ride, has fixed the vibration that was there before and can stop without stalling. But the bike still pulls slightly with clutch lever pulled in with 1st gear. What could still be causing this, plates worn too much, springs too short? I checked the end of the push rod and it looked ok not mushroomed.

you can get a little drag with oil viscosity, did you fill with the correct grade of oil. Even so it should get better as the engine warms up

If its pulling in 1st, then it sounds like the push rod isn't disengaging the clutch when fully pulled in. 

This is quite common on a bike that is stood for a period of time. 

I would personally check your clutch push rod meets correctly and the bearing hasn't worn down? as over time the spherical bearing becomes elliptical. 

Also looking at how worn your clutch basket was, I would also check the actuator arm assembly, to make sure that hasn't developed an indent where it sits on your push rod. 

If I remember rightly the DT has a 2 piece push rod.