Mallet Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 I'm working on a 1995 dt175 which has been sitting around for a few years without being started. When in gear the bike will not roll when the clutch lever is pulled in as the clutch plates are sticking. I've tried most suggestions to free it up (clutch cable adjustment, rocking it in gear, cable tied the clutch lever in overnight, rode it around dumping the clutch in and out at revs) but it basically the hasn't changed. So I'm guessing the clutch fibre plates have had it. So i'm looking at replacing/rebuilding the clutch. I want to do it properly once. So is it good enough to just replace the fibre plates or should I be looking at other parts while the clutch is disassembled?Is there a link somewhere showing the procedure for clutch rebuild/installation?Cheers,Mallet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted June 27, 2015 Moderator Share Posted June 27, 2015 Just take the rh engine cover off. Then the pressure plate. Now separate the plates by hand and it should be fine when you put it back together. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slice Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 Or just tape the clutch lever back against the bars and leave it over night can work to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mallet Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 Or just tape the clutch lever back against the bars and leave it over night can work to.Have done that, didn't work. Going to pull it apart like cynic suggested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mallet Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 Just take the rh engine cover off. Then the pressure plate. Now separate the plates by hand and it should be fine when you put it back together.Once that plates are separated would you suggest any sort of cleaning/brushing of the fibre plates ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted June 28, 2015 Moderator Share Posted June 28, 2015 Once that plates are separated would you suggest any sort of cleaning/brushing of the fibre plates ? clean the steel plates with some scotchbrite,, just wipe the friction plates, brush oil on them when re-assembling.Take note that the little 'pips' on the edge of the steel plates are 72 degrees from each other 360 degs / 5 plates = 72 degrees.This will prevent unnecessary vibration Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted June 28, 2015 Moderator Share Posted June 28, 2015 Once that plates are separated would you suggest any sort of cleaning/brushing of the fibre plates ? Airhead has that covered, they haven't stuck together in the glue sense, they have been compressed for too long so the oil is squished out of the friction pads a little bit. There will be a tiny bit of suction as a result when they try to separate as oil wants to go back into the friction plates. Again only a tiny tiny amount.Over the surface area of the clutch and with little movement that tiny amount becomes enough to stick the whole shebang together. Nothing wrong its doing what it does. Just needs using. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mallet Posted June 29, 2015 Author Share Posted June 29, 2015 Just take the rh engine cover off. Then the pressure plate. Now separate the plates by hand and it should be fine when you put it back together. Ok it's apart, plates separated very easily but the clutch basket looks fairly grooved. Is it ok to file them down, what are the drawbacks with doing this. A new basket cost $350 aud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted June 29, 2015 Moderator Share Posted June 29, 2015 Thats a state isnt it, yeah file them smooth it's all you can do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slice Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 That must have rattled like a bastard, as above, out with your file and have at it, you could see what it would cost the fill the tracks with new material and then file it back to original, if you know someone with a welder and the skill to lay down a descent seam then you could get it back to original. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mallet Posted June 30, 2015 Author Share Posted June 30, 2015 clean the steel plates with some scotchbrite,, just wipe the friction plates, brush oil on them when re-assembling. Take note that the little 'pips' on the edge of the steel plates are 72 degrees from each other 360 degs / 5 plates = 72 degrees. This will prevent unnecessary vibration I took some photos of the steel plates during disassembly, if i understand what your saying then these plates are not positioned correctly. The pips are the single bump on each plate? In the 1st pic the pip is around 1 o'clock, yes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhat250 Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 (edited) yIP. your getting there, friction plate ,then steel, mind the pressure plate, [ outside one] move it round till it fits proper, Edited June 30, 2015 by blackhat250 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted June 30, 2015 Moderator Share Posted June 30, 2015 Yep those 'blips should be 120 degrees apart, (at 12 o'clock, 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock).When you file them smooth finish with a swiss file or wet and dry. If you don't leave them nice and smooth you may as well leave them be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mallet Posted June 30, 2015 Author Share Posted June 30, 2015 Yep those 'blips should be 120 degrees apart, (at 12 o'clock, 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock).When you file them smooth finish with a swiss file or wet and dry. If you don't leave them nice and smooth you may as well leave them be.120 degrees? i got 5 steel plates, should'nt that be 72 degrees apart as airhead said ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted July 1, 2015 Moderator Share Posted July 1, 2015 Im quoting the manual. If you want to try and get 72deg crack on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mallet Posted July 1, 2015 Author Share Posted July 1, 2015 Im quoting the manual. If you want to try and get 72deg crack on. ok, got hold of a manual. I've actual got six plates which lines up with manual which says to space them 60 deg. So the basket has been filed down, plates cleaned, clutch reassembled and clutch adjusted to lineup with the alignment pip. Took it for a test ride, has fixed the vibration that was there before and can stop without stalling. But the bike still pulls slightly with clutch lever pulled in with 1st gear. What could still be causing this, plates worn too much, springs too short? I checked the end of the push rod and it looked ok not mushroomed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted July 1, 2015 Moderator Share Posted July 1, 2015 you can get a little drag with oil viscosity, did you fill with the correct grade of oil. Even so it should get better as the engine warms up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silkk Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 If its pulling in 1st, then it sounds like the push rod isn't disengaging the clutch when fully pulled in. This is quite common on a bike that is stood for a period of time. I would personally check your clutch push rod meets correctly and the bearing hasn't worn down? as over time the spherical bearing becomes elliptical. Also looking at how worn your clutch basket was, I would also check the actuator arm assembly, to make sure that hasn't developed an indent where it sits on your push rod. If I remember rightly the DT has a 2 piece push rod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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