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Posted

Hi All

I have a 2000 XVS650 and today I was just slowing down approaching a junction and the engine just died, pulled clutch in and got to the side of the road but now the starter motor wont turn over, electrics seem ok, anyone have any ideas what the problem could be.

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Posted

You might want to introduce yourself in the new members area; the forum gets a ridiculous number of requests for advice from single posters and it rightly pisses people off.

  • Like 1
Posted

When you press the starter button dose it make a nasty crackling sound? Have you checked to see if your battery is fully charged?

Posted

A bike that dies and then won't start points to a duff regulator/rectifier. They are a compromise design and have a limited lifespan. Can you jump start the bike? If yes, you know all the other things are okay and that the charging systems are on the blink.

Posted

Thanks for the replies

Battery fine, disconnected starter motor from bike and turns over fine, as soon as its back in the bike it wont turn over, something not right in the engine. Have rocked it backwards and forwards and it gets to a ponit where it will go no further, seems like something has seized £££££££££££££££££

Posted

Drain and check the oil for nasty bits, if you find metal fragments in the bottom of the oil catch can then you have had something give up the ghost.

If you find nothing in the oil then take the oil snorkel out (on the left side of engine, 2 Allen bolts) and see if there is any metal frags in there.

  • Like 1
Posted

thanks for that, when I took the starter motor off to test that a lot of the oil came out then, should that happen, didnt say drain the oil first in the manual, mind you what did come out look and felt fragment free.

Posted

Yer you will get oil come out when you take the starter motor out as it basically is in the bowls of the motor, tip for next time if you cant be arsed to drain the oil just get something strong to prop the bike up on and a mate to lean the bike over to the other side so that the oil moves away from the whole that the motor goes in. ;)

The fragments (if any at all) will be down in the sump as they are heavier than the oil so you wouldn't have felt much or any at all.

Can you turn the motor over by hand by using a socket and wrench on the rotor?

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks Noise

No the motor wont turn, tried that last night, this is my concern. It moves a very smal amount then stops, cant unserstand it, The bike didnt lock up as in a seize it just cut out when i pulled the clutch to change gear. No funny noises before hand just stopped.

Posted

Hmmmm................. :eusa_think:

Its either:

  1. Failed piston rings......
  2. Big ends.....................
  3. Or something in the clutch has failed and as you pulled the clutch in its failed to disengage and has locked the motor up???

When did you last change the oil?

And is there oil in the motor?

Posted

Any number of things can make your engine not turn over, dropped valve, broken selector fork or broken gear, piston rings jammed, clutch chain broken or clutch gear jammed, cam chain broken or stripped. These are the most common, so you need to rock the engine back and forth with the plugs out to see if it will move the pistons up and down and where the thing stops moving, listen for a sudden "clunk" if it stops suddenly and that will tell you if it's something broken off, one thing you should check is, as Noise says, is there a full amount of oil in the thing cos if your low or maybe even empty then there's your problem.

  • Like 1
Posted

thanks, had all oils changed in february. Have tried moving the bike backwards and forwards with the plugs out but only moves a few inches before it locks up, I suppose its know a process of elimination. What is the easiest thing to start with without stripping the engine down to much and how much can be done without actually taking the engine out

Posted

Usually you can get the heads off and the barrels but after that it's a bit more complicated, if you need to get at the internals of the engine then it is only possible to do that with the engine out, at least that's been my experience. Your bike might be different but it's best to take the engine out as it makes it easier if you have it on a bench and can get at it. It does sound like something has come adrift in your engine from what you describe I would guess at something in the gearbox but that's just my opinion. Good luck with it and DON'T resort to a big hammer and lot's of swearing, slow and steady is the best, just do what you can and the minute you feel the need to hit something make a cup of tea.

  • Like 2
Posted

cheers, really appreciate all you help, will keep all informed of findings

Posted

Yer as Slice said buddy, it took me 3 months to do a full rebuild of my XVS650 motor. the bitch part is getting the rotor off so that you can split the crank cases. also a full engine gasket set is a healthy £177 off Wemoto.

First few mins are of the engine build (excuse the cheesy music it was the only good one youtube had haha)

  • Like 1
Posted

Just had another think about this and would suggest that the first thing you take off is the engine side cover over the clutch, if there is a problem in there it might save you having to take the engine out, you might as well do the easy things first cos you never know it might save you time and money, the next thing I would do is take the rocker cover off and see if you have a dropped valve, should be easy to see and you can check your springs as well cos if one of those is broke then you have an immediate solution to your problem, as I said I would start with the easy things first. good luck mate.

  • Like 3
Posted

Slice, Noise thanks for the help, hopefully know what the problem is soon. Noise looks like your the man, i'll send the engine you're way for rebuild, lol

Posted

ok, so we have an update on progress so far. 2 problems identified, the hole in the camshaft bush where the small pin sits which also sits in the cog has become oval shaped and the camshaft is not turning fully, it also appears that the rear cylinder is quite dry and has a very strong smell of burnt oil. maybe faulty oil pump as well?.

next step is to completely remove the engine so we can remove the head to see if there is any valve or piston damage..

Question now is how and where do you disconnect the drive shaft, manual suggests pull back rubber boot and undo bolts. is it really that easy??

  • Like 1
Posted

Sounds to me that you have had a oil pump failure and has resulted in top end engine damage, may find your going to be needing new valves and possibly cams too. :shakeno:

Getting the engine out is easy when you have help from a mate, and the best way i found to do it (twice!)

Its a lot of parts to come off but it helps in the long run as there is nothing worse that having to fight around things that you could of taken off 5 mins before you got your hand trapped between the engine and floor :eusa_think::eusa_shifty:

  1. Jack bike up and place on 4 axle stands so wheel are off the floor
  2. Remove fuel tank, seat, rear mudguard and exhausts
  3. Loosen rear wheel nuts and pull out rear wheel (yes it really is that simple)
  4. Remove handle bars, followed buy the whole front end, (if you jacked the bike up high enough you can remove the front wheel, forks and yolk all as one unit)
  5. Now your left with what i call the trunk of the bike
  6. Remove the stupid plastic chrome bits on the top of the engine heads (hardest part)
  7. Remove carbs air filter boxes and the fuel pump assembly up near the head stock (No1 cylinder coil will come with it)
  8. Disconnect the wires to the engine and move them through the frame so they don't get snagged when you remove the motor
  9. Remove gear leaver, rear brake leaver and foot pegs.
  10. Loosen all the engine mounting bolts (i didn't say remove them just LOOSEN)
  11. you and a strong mate lift up the whole thing and place the frame on the floor.
  12. Remove all the engine mounting bolts now.
  13. Now here is the fun bit :spin2:
  14. Stand on the right side of the bike (rear brake leaver side)
  15. Grab the heads(exhaust ports are handy)
  16. now to get it out you need to tilt the heads out, then the front cylinder needs to come out first whilst tilting the heads further towards you in order to get the prop shaft coupling out of the frame have your mate to hold the frame so it doesn't move.
  17. Laying the frame on its side and lifting it off the motor dose not work on this bike due to the prop shaft coupling so don't bother trying haha
  • Like 2
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