Toutsuite Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 Pissf*cking shittery! Returning from a long ride today, the draggie breaks down. No transmition to the rear wheel. Gears all work, but letting the clutch out only results in nasty grinding noises coming from either the rear hub, or where the shaft goes into the final drive u-joint thingy. Hard to tell as I broke down on the south circular and it was bloody noisy. I suspect the 4 hour wait for the recovery truck was just the beginning of my woes... Anybody have any tips, (or spare parts)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slice Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 Oh bad luck mate, what a bummer. No tips for you I'm afraid but most likely your universal joint or the spline in the final drive have failed as you said. still a 2nd hand one from ebay and about 2 hours should see it fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toutsuite Posted May 17, 2015 Author Share Posted May 17, 2015 Right, went to Machine Mart today, invested in 4 axle stands and a cheap trolley jack for cars. Managed to jack it up on three axle stands and the front wheel, so the back wheel was well off the ground. Actually rock solid compared to when it's on its two wheels and stand! Anyhoos, got the back wheel and shaft off. The front bit seems ok, no obvious signs of extreme wear, no sheared off splines or anything, some residual grease on it. The back bit on the other hand, bingo: the shaft itself is ok, but there's a coupling gear that mates with the shaft and the gear sticking out of the hub. It's banjaxed, stripped bald, splines completely gone on one side of it. The other side is fine, as is the shaft splines. So I found the culprit. £21.10 delivered from Fowlers for the part. The gear coming out of the hub however is showing some signs of wear. It was mated to the stripped side of the connector after all. It's not too bad, and I think it's still got quite a bit of life left in it. The trouble is it's not listed as part number on the fiche, which means I'd have to get a whole new hub if that ever goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toutsuite Posted May 17, 2015 Author Share Posted May 17, 2015 http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-xvs650ppc-2002_model11084/partslist/C-11.html#results part no 26 is the one that failed. the part between nos 7 and 8 is the one that I'd ideally also like to replace but it has no listed part no. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neversaydie Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 Part no No (lets call it 7.5) will be pricey im guessing as its the worm drive shaft, normally changed as a set with the worm wheel, also likely to be equally hideuosly expensive, if available. A decnet second hand matched set may well be the soundest option if you want to swap them out. Part 26 may well be the sacrificial part in the drive mechanism, to save wear an tear on the (unavailble?) expensive parts. Dont forget to check for any possible failure cause If it were me, id be inclined to fit 26 and get running while keeping an eye out for a good second hand gear worm/wheel set, Good luck with it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toutsuite Posted May 18, 2015 Author Share Posted May 18, 2015 Currently, the only option should the worm drive fail, is to get a hub 2nd hand off eBay, from america. £300 to £370. Haven't been able to find just the gear anywhere yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toutsuite Posted May 18, 2015 Author Share Posted May 18, 2015 As for failure cause, I'd say its Yamaha not lubing their internals properly. When the rear wheel comes off for a tyre change, its only the splines on the shaft that go into the u-joint and the wheel that get a bit of grease on them. The internals don't. I plan to give everything a proper molly lithium grease once a year from now on. And save up for a 2nd hand hub. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neversaydie Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2007-07-YAMAHA-XVS650-XVS-650-V-STAR-CUSTOM-MIDDLE-DRIVE-BEVEL-GEAR-SHAFT-/201070939209?hash=item2ed0c30c49 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-V-STAR-XVS650-XVS-650-01-OUTPUT-DRIVE-SHAFT-GEARS-GEAR-U-JOINT-13-K-MILES-/370941631102?hash=item565dd81a7e Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toutsuite Posted May 19, 2015 Author Share Posted May 19, 2015 Ta for that mate, but that's the front wormgear (engine to shaft). I need the rear one that pokes out of the hub. May have found a solution, will keep posted... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ttaskmaster Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 I will ask around my local mechanic, see if he has anything... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toutsuite Posted May 19, 2015 Author Share Posted May 19, 2015 I've ordered a 2nd hand hub off a viggy 535. The gears are identical apparently: http://650ccnd.com/webslinger/Mods/RearEnd/XV535Reardriveswapfor650Vsta.pdf 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slice Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 That looks like a real solution to your problem, bit more work that a straight swap but if it saves you a shed load of cash then go for it. Might be an idea to get that saved on the site somehow, others could benefit from what your doing. Good luck mate. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toutsuite Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 Part has arrived. Gears look to be in excellent condition. However I'm currently hampered by my inability to remove the bearing retainer (as seen in the link in the post above). Don't suppose anyone has the specialist tool lying around? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neversaydie Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 Got nothing like that. Heat then soak with plusgas for a couple of days, unless a local machine shop can knock you up a box spanner for it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toutsuite Posted May 28, 2015 Author Share Posted May 28, 2015 Got a bloke on ebay to machine me the neccessary tool: about £40 for the 65mm socket and £20 for the long handle from Halfords. the worm gear has now been swapped! Just waiting for the weather to clear up to put it all back together again. Anybody need this in future (and you draggie owners will!) let me know and I'll hire it out to you. Gotta make some of that cash back! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toutsuite Posted May 30, 2015 Author Share Posted May 30, 2015 The job is done! Using the specially machined socket in the pics above, I swapped both worm-gears of the virago hub and installed them in the draggie hub. Lubed everything up with molly lithium grease, all bolts got a nice spot of coppaslip, all put back together, and she's back on the road. So my advice is: grease the splines. You draggie owners have heard this advice before I'm sure, but perhaps what you're not aware of (as I wasn't) is that you need to remove the shaft off the hub (there are 4 bolts to undo to take it off), and give the shaft end, the gear end and the connecting gear (just a short tube with splines on the inside) a good greasing once every couple of years at least. You can ask your local tyre shop to do it, or do it yourselves if you've got a bike jack and some axle stands. This thread might be worth a pinning in fact as this is a common fault with the draggies. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slice Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 Nice one Tout, bet your grinning now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ttaskmaster Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 This thread might be worth a pinning in fact as this is a common fault with the draggies. With respect, I wouldn't consider this to be a common *fault*... unless you're talking about the owner. It's a necessary part of routine check-maintenance and servicing, as much as changing the oil or final drive lube. While parts do simply wear out, failure to adhere to this often results in defects sooner than expected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toutsuite Posted June 1, 2015 Author Share Posted June 1, 2015 With equal respect, where in the owners manual does it mention anything about greasing splines, and *which* splines to grease in particular? I had assumed the splines referred to by various bods on the interwebs were the ones you could see at the end of the shaft when the wheel came off. I had no idea about the internals of the hub, or where or how the shaft attaches to said gear. And I suspect the average mechanic wouldn't know theres greasing to be done inside the hub either. Fault or no, I am merely sharing what I've learnt from my experience with others so that they may avoid the hassle of breaking down by the roadside, and\or saving themselves a ton of cash should they have these same problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ttaskmaster Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 With equal respect, where in the owners manual does it mention anything about greasing splines, and *which* splines to grease in particular? I had assumed the splines referred to by various bods on the interwebs were the ones you could see at the end of the shaft when the wheel came off. I had no idea about the internals of the hub, or where or how the shaft attaches to said gear. And I suspect the average mechanic wouldn't know theres greasing to be done inside the hub either. Fault or no, I am merely sharing what I've learnt from my experience with others so that they may avoid the hassle of breaking down by the roadside, and\or saving themselves a ton of cash should they have these same problem. Owner's Manual? Nowhere. It'll be part of a major period service, which they expect a certified Yamaha mechanic with specific tools and the workshop manual to undertake, rather than the average owner. Same for the suspension linkages on an FJR. We can still do it, of course and I fully support people doing that, but it's one of those that 'officially' you're not expected to do yourself. I'm just drawing a distinction between an actual fault (such as the crap RegRec design and placement) and something that only goes wrong if you don't follow the prescribed service intervals. By all means pin the topic, but let's not have it as a fault of the bike - Same as the one I found about people not cleaning behind the rubber curtain and developing dangerous rust/structural failure on the monoshock pivots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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