Bikeguy55 Posted May 23, 2015 Author Share Posted May 23, 2015 What the heck do I have going on here cynic have you ever seen anything like this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bikeguy55 Posted May 23, 2015 Author Share Posted May 23, 2015 After typing in the part number I found on the stator I believe the stator to be from a 1980 dt125g the diagram I found on bike bandit matches perfectly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bikeguy55 Posted May 23, 2015 Author Share Posted May 23, 2015 Sorry for the rambling a bit this all is making my head spin slightly. So where do I go from here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted May 23, 2015 Moderator Share Posted May 23, 2015 The G has the later ig system. That has only 1 pick up coil where your cdi needs 2. Simple choice now is to either get a G cdi and fit that, or get a E stator and fit that. Not sure of availability your side of the pond but just going on the numbers, I would think changing the cdi would be the smarter move as they only used that cdi for maybe 12 months tops to 79, from 79 through to 81, bit of 82 they used the later cdi. One thing you could try is swap the connection at the cdi of the white with red tracer and connect it to the red cdi input. You may find it will run to around 4 or 5k (where the other coil would take over) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bikeguy55 Posted May 23, 2015 Author Share Posted May 23, 2015 Cdi are avalable but expensive. So you don't think there's any way I could make it work the way it is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bikeguy55 Posted May 23, 2015 Author Share Posted May 23, 2015 When I try to switch those wire the bike doesn't even attempt to start which would make sense of the white red tracer wire is for the initial coul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted May 24, 2015 Moderator Share Posted May 24, 2015 Cdi are avalable but expensive. So you don't think there's any way I could make it work the way it is? Simple answer. No. They are 2 different systems. You may be able to get the coils separately. One option could be a 125E stator as that uses points you would need the flywheel too. It has bigger openings to set the points. One way or another at the moment your trying to fit a square peg in a round hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bikeguy55 Posted May 24, 2015 Author Share Posted May 24, 2015 Ok thank you for all your help I'm really glad to have finally found the problem. I think I'm leaning on finding a stator because it'll make the bike "right" I just hope I can find something reasonable priced somewhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted May 24, 2015 Moderator Share Posted May 24, 2015 No problem. Good luck with the parts hunt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bikeguy55 Posted June 1, 2015 Author Share Posted June 1, 2015 Hey cynic to no surprise I have been unable to find a stator for a 78 however I found one on ebay for a 77 it 175 he claims it'll work for my bike however literally minutes before I won the bid I found one at the local salvage shop matching the one on eBay exactly and he let me take it home to put on my bike to see if it'll work and it didn't the bike back fired very hard and threw the lever back at my foot. So I'm wondering will one of these work? The only difference I can see from the two is that the it stator had a black with red tracer and red with yellow tracer opposed the to the plug with the yellow and blue. Also when I had the it stator from the salavage yard hooked up I had the black/red and red/yellow hooked to nothing. I just don't wanna invest my money in the stator from eBay of its not going to work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted June 4, 2015 Moderator Share Posted June 4, 2015 Dont know for certain if the it stator will work. If it is the same visually the as long as the resistance values for the coils tally (use that to work out the correct connections) i dont see a problem.. Failing that refitting the stator with the correct coils is not expensive. A hard backfire from a 175 is not unknown when there ok. Good ones go off like a shotgun lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bikeguy55 Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 Can you walk me through the connection values and how to test it because I ordered one off eBay with the matching fly wheel but this doesn't seem to be making any spark at all and no more back fire so I wanna verify if it is good at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted June 4, 2015 Moderator Share Posted June 4, 2015 Can you walk me through the connection values and how to test it because I ordered one off eBay with the matching fly wheel but this doesn't seem to be making any spark at all and no more back fire so I wanna verify if it is good at all. Try here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bikeguy55 Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 Airhead thank you it appears the red wire is still my problem here I picked up no resisetence at the cdi connection or where it plugs into the harness from the stator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bikeguy55 Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 Also when testing the brown wire I only got 210 ohms. I also wanna note that I put my ground as the coil base. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bikeguy55 Posted June 10, 2015 Author Share Posted June 10, 2015 Ok guys I'm super close I think I found out that the mysterious black/red wire is actually the other side of the pickup coil which is why when I put my multimeter across the red and the black I got no resistance. When I put it across the red and the red/black ie across the pickup cool i get 13.6 ohms on the dot. I think on the actual stator the coil is just grounded to itself so should I just ground the red/ black wire and I should get spark right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bikeguy55 Posted June 10, 2015 Author Share Posted June 10, 2015 Also how important is the green/white wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted June 12, 2015 Moderator Share Posted June 12, 2015 If your talking about the green/white that changes to white in the main loom that's your rectified DC feed for the bike, battery charging and the like. As well as the lighting. Depends on if the lights are on as to which. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bikeguy55 Posted June 13, 2015 Author Share Posted June 13, 2015 I guess it is a good thing I don't have any lights. This setup should work I actually switched the lighting coils between my two stators so now it plugs and matches and everything. Still no spark not sure what to do now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bikeguy55 Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 Hey guys I'm still having spark issues here I just spun my crank with a drill to see if the bike will make any spark at all. It makes it at high speed but not at low speed. My tests for the stator showed my charging coil( brown wire) to be very low compared to the specs airhead provided could this be my problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts