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DT175 Shift Lever Loose


bpchura
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Hey all, I'm in the process of doing a full resto on a 1974 DT175. While I had all the crankcase split, I replaced all the seals in the engine with new ones. Weird thing is that they didn't include the shift shaft oil seal. Not a huge deal, I can find one somewhere for a few bucks.

What I'm concerned about is the amount of play in the shift lever. It has an odd linkage were it basically pivots in a hole in the crankcase. It seems to have a ton of play. Like, it moves an inch up before in actually starts to engage the mechanism. I dont think its the play in the linkage, I believe its the play in the seal around the shaft/the hole the shaft rests in. Sorry for the confusing description but has anyone had this problem?

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Got a picture?

Sounds like one of the earlier linkages. There is a short shaft behind a plate then part of the selector mech. Connecting a cross shaft to the rest of the selector mech behind the clutch drum.

Google Ty trials in the uk. This is a common problem on the Yamaha Ty175 (same motor) and they have an off the shelf upgrade.

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Thanks Cynic. Looks like that would totally fix my problem. I was thinking it would be great to press fit some sort of bushing in there. Seems like they thought so as well. Sadly, a broke college student cant afford $130 to fix it... Il look into maybe rigging up something myself. A bushing of some sort maybe. Anyone got an idea?

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I checked out the splines and they are in decent shape. Shift level locks on there pretty good. Im trying to think of some way to get it stabilized but I don't think it will be a simple task

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oil lite bushes will do it, you can get them in all sorts of sizes and also ream them out to size

bronze-bushes.jpg

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Those would be prefect. Im thinking either bore out the hole on the plate to slightly smaller than the OD on the correct size and heat press it in. Either that or tig weld one to the existing plate if possible. Hard weld though. Any ideas? Also, were could I get some of those bushings?

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Yeah I looked through a lot of different companies. I was just talking about getting the ID right with the worn shaft and the deciding on the tolerance. Then also either press fit or not. Thank you for your link, it was a helpful push in the right direction. :thumb:

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