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Posted

Ok..after deciding to give this bike to my son for local use, finally ordered a set of friction plates to get my first DT`s clutch sorted (its slipping pretty bad). This is my first clutch repair so please bear with me. Friction plates have been ordered from Yamaha. Once received will soak them in oil overnight.

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Posted

Remember that the steel plates wear as well Mc, the info on the thickness should be in the manual, it gives you a min/max thickness so make sure yours are still within tolerance. I have a micrometer that I use for this, only takes a few minutes when you have it apart and saves you a lot of swearing if you rebuild it and it still slips.

PS the 2 Suzuki's I had, both of those had minimum thickness on the steel plates so they rattled like a bastard once I got them unstuck.

PPS looking really nice Mc, what happened to the other 2 you were thinking of?

Posted

Hey Slice..don`t have a micrometer..suppose been bit lucky so far to get away without any fancy tools. Will take plenty pics and hoping its just friction plates fried (following Airhead`s advice). Let`s see how things look once I`ve stripped that clutch.

Posted

Oh, bit confused..what other 2 you on about?

  • Moderator
Posted

If the clutch has been slipping badly the metal plates may be warped.

Check them on a piece of glass with feeler gagues.

Posted

Mc, Think it was 2 farm bikes on Gumtree you were looking at, a while ago now but thought you had sent of message about them. never heard you mention them again so I suppose they had gone?

Posted

Never got a reply for them..guess they gone. (thank goodness..got enough DT`s)

  • Like 1
Posted

New plates have arrived. Soaking them in new oil overnight.

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Posted

Can`t see anything in the manual..is there any special procedure when removing the clutch pressure plate and springs..and is there a torque setting for reassembly?

Posted

Not ever seen a torque setting for the bolts I just know "DON'T OVER TIGHTEN THEM" cos the bloody things snap like a carrot if you do, even hand tight was a bit over the top on the Suzuki's just pinch them up till they touch the flat of the bolt to the face of the clutch plate then about (guessing here) 1/2 a turn, probably about 6 or 7 ft/lbs at most mate. You really think "That's never going to hold" but it will honest.

Plus you can,if you have a micrometer, measure the length of the springs to make sure they are in side the tolerance, if not then up against a good steel rule will do in a pinch.

  • Moderator
Posted

The clutch spring bolts of the top of my head are something like 5lb torque as said.

Be worth taking a pic b4 removing the plates so you can be sure on the order.

The metal plates will have a flat, or maybe a lug of somesort so you can load the plates 120 deg apart for balance.

Lastly. Dont lose the little ballbearing. It can come out with the pushrod.

Posted

Ok here we go. Cover off. (notice thrust washer on rev counter gear missing)

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These bolts had me worried after Slice`s comment..they were damn tight to get off.

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Old friction plates.

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I`ve noticed guys file this galling smooth on the basket.

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Checked no ballbearing come out when removing pressure plate and pushrod.

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Springs measure round 32-32.5mm..on the limit.

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Ok..question..the metal plate lugs must be 120deg spread..but what about friction plates? I notice they are marked white which I would think is to be sure they spread correctly. I`ve spread them random..sort of 120deg..but must every second plate white mark then line up?

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  • Moderator
Posted

They always are. Think they sort of settle in, you may find a dab of threadlock on the bolts. They are made of cheese though so carefull.

As to the friction plates. Yeah why not if there marked at 120deg.

As to the filing. Can do it but dont get carried away or you will cause judder from the amount of freeplay. Just take the highspots down would be better.

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