DutchFJ1200 Posted November 16, 2014 Posted November 16, 2014 Guys, Just changed the rear pads. Plastic cap off, split pins out, pins out, old pads out, push pistons in, new pads in ..... jobs a goodun. What are those thin shims for you have to put on the outside of the pads? Also anybody know a good howto to get the damn pistons back in the calipers? Got there but the must be an easier & quicker way then mine :-)
dt502001 Posted November 16, 2014 Posted November 16, 2014 The shims are to stop brake squeel a small amount of lube should be aplied between shim and pad. Push the pistions back with a c clamp if you take the caliper off or gently pry it back with a screw driver dont use the outer edge of the disk as the leverage point but rather the mounting area.best to take it off as you should clean the piston of old crap before pushing it backin.Also the slider pins should be lubed.
neversaydie Posted November 16, 2014 Posted November 16, 2014 2 wooden wedges, crack nipple open, push wedges in opposing each other
wild foamy Posted November 17, 2014 Posted November 17, 2014 +1 for the clamp to reset pistons, you can buy the proper tool but I never bother. The shims are squeal shims, when the brakes are applied the heat generated causes them to increase in size slightly, when the brakes are released they cool down and shrink which gives a small amount of clearance between the pad and disc reducing parasitic drag and premature wear
Ttaskmaster Posted November 17, 2014 Posted November 17, 2014 No-one's mentioned taking the reservoir cap off... This usually makes it far easier to get pistons back in.
dt502001 Posted November 19, 2014 Posted November 19, 2014 No-one's mentioned taking the reservoir cap off... This usually makes it far easier to get pistons back in. If you have to remove the cap then your venting system is not working properly and you need to clean the cap and sealing rubber. The piston should slide back easy if you have to force it ( anything more than a simple push)then caliper needs rebuilding. Corrosin and build up has formed under the sealing rubber and causing the pistion to "stick" this will cause your brakes to wear faster , as the piston can't return to it "free " position when you release the brake lever/s and you to loose gas milage and HP to the wheel. No need to remove the cap,or open the bleeder screw, if you doo have to ,to get the pistoin back you will force the fluid back and duck the seals in the master cylinder,and, the fluid will be sprayed all over you painted parts and cause the paint to lift and rust will form under quickly as brake fluid is a very good paint stripper. The only time you shoud need to add fluid to the system is if you are flushing the system,otherwise the system is full all the time and a low fluid level indicates your pads are worn down to the point of replacement. If at anypoint in time you need to add fluid because the level keeps droping your system has a leak and should be fully checked to find the leak. A fully working sysetm will never need refilling and flushing your sysetem every year or 2 is a great way to save having to rebuilding your calipers and master cylinders. Brake fluid is ' hydroscopic" (Meaning it will absorb water) and as the system is exposed to air all the time it becomes contaminated with H2O and internaly corrodes. The cost of new brake fluid is far cheaper and simpler so when you change brake pads change your fluid as well.And use 2x as much as you need to fill the system to help rid the system of old H2O.This will not remove all the H2O 4x is better espicaly if you have ABS system,not that it applys to your bike Dutch but others might read this. And the pistions in the ABS are far more prone to H2O contamination.
Ttaskmaster Posted November 19, 2014 Posted November 19, 2014 If you have to remove the cap then your venting system is not working properly and you need to clean the cap and sealing rubber. Phone Yamaha, then, as their Workshop Manual says to do exactly this, stating that it makes it easier to move the pistons back (while also stressing it be done gently to avoid spillage).
dt502001 Posted November 19, 2014 Posted November 19, 2014 I can do 6 or more brake jobs in any given day, over a 30 year time frame I can't even remember how many I have done how many have you done Task?
DutchFJ1200 Posted November 19, 2014 Author Posted November 19, 2014 The piston should slide back easy and causing the pistion to "stick" this will cause your brakes to wear faster , as the piston can't return to it "free " position Good intel DT! Both pistons were a biatch to compress And the chap in the shop asked me if I used my rear break much because my rear pads had completely gone in 1 year/5000 miles. He said they should last longer. Caliper rebuild +fluid change then this winter!
Preload Posted November 19, 2014 Posted November 19, 2014 2 wooden wedges, crack nipple open, push wedges in opposing each other +1 using this method the pistons are pushed back square and the bores don't get damaged. Tip. Squeeze the pistons out a bit further to clean any muck off before pushing back.
Preload Posted November 19, 2014 Posted November 19, 2014 And the chap in the shop asked me if I used my rear break much because my rear pads had completely gone in 1 year/5000 miles. He said they should last longer. Caliper rebuild +fluid change then this winter! Check the foot brake pivot they can seize up and hold on the brake slightly which wears the pads.
Ttaskmaster Posted November 19, 2014 Posted November 19, 2014 I can do 6 or more brake jobs in any given day, over a 30 year time frame I can't even remember how many I have done how many have you done Task? Pad changes? Couple of hundred, I expect. Caliper rebuilds? 20 or so that I remember. More that I don't.
wild foamy Posted November 19, 2014 Posted November 19, 2014 I can't even remember how many I have done how many have you done Task? Pad changes? Couple of hundred, I expect. Caliper rebuilds? 20 or so that I remember. More that I don't. 1
blackhat250 Posted November 19, 2014 Posted November 19, 2014 Yeh foams " always entertaining these panzer [ FJ ] posts,,,,
Ttaskmaster Posted November 19, 2014 Posted November 19, 2014 Yeh foams " always entertaining these panzer [ FJ ] posts,,,, You trynna call us a pansy or summat, are yeh'z? Or are you alluding to my little Battle Bitch being somewhat like Armour? If anything, FJ probably stands for Fallschirm-Jäger, especially as three officers never crossed the Rhine on it.
wild foamy Posted November 20, 2014 Posted November 20, 2014 No doubt in my mind the FJ is an old tank, couldn't pick it up by myself when I dropped it! I really only come here to read the comments, what an exciting past few days it's been on this forum! 1
DutchFJ1200 Posted November 20, 2014 Author Posted November 20, 2014 There we go again with the FJ bashing Foamy...... couldn't pick it up by myself when I dropped it! .... says more about yourself than the 'mighty FJ'
Ttaskmaster Posted November 20, 2014 Posted November 20, 2014 There we go again with the FJ bashing Yeah, but it's a tank, so it can take it!!
wild foamy Posted November 21, 2014 Posted November 21, 2014 Bear in mind I weigh just under 10 stone... The FJ is considerably more than that!
DutchFJ1200 Posted November 21, 2014 Author Posted November 21, 2014 Bear in mind I weigh just under 10 stone... The FJ is considerably more than that! Ok Roger that....................... are you implying that not only do I drive an archaic tank ...... but that I'm a phat bastard as well ?
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