pablo0874 Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 heres a question to a electrically wired member if I wire this circuit only will this be enough to run the bike or do I need more? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pablo0874 Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 heres a question to a electrically wired member if I wire this circuit only will this be enough to run the bike or do I need more? another question is the coil is earthed in the diagram is it enough just for it to be attached to the frame or does it need a earth wire? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 The coil has to be grounded if the coil has 2 wires then 1 of them has to be grounded. The way you have it wired your battery power is going nowhere but to the switch,kinda pointless and will neve get charged,then again it's not doing anything so it dosen't need to be charged.But if your going to run a battery why not hook it up ? The battery does not feed the cdi the generator does.So I hope you didnt connect the battery to the black and black with white wire or you fried your cdi. One thing that has me a bit puzzled is the kill switch is in the off position but the ignition switch is in the run position,I would leave the kill switch out of the puzzel it's not needed,untill you have the bike running.I think the diagram is wrong.The kill switch in the run position would open the two wires to the cdi in this diagram not groundin the cdi or generator feild.But the ignition switch in the run position is grounding the black white wire Also you have not rectified or regulated the current or hooked up the lighting coil you will burn it out. I read your other post ,,no way to check a cdi. Best to keep all your post's together in one thread ask a mod to move them. Airhead this might be part of the otherguys problem with his 125 not having a permenet off on his bike if it was wired off this diagram? I will look at this later ,but it should be close to a 175 diagram. What do you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pablo0874 Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 hi dt502001,thanks for all the info the wiring diagram is for the lc mk 1 in the Haynes manual, being a novice to bikes and certainlyt a novice to electrics I would not know i just added the colour to clarify it for my self ,i connected it up like this but found out the battery was not needed anyway i wired it all in and wether or not the kill switch was in the open or closed position it stil;l got a spark even without battery so i took the kill switch out of the circuit and now the ignition in off position no spark ignition in position 1 allows spark so am i right in saying i can just turn the ignition off to kill the engine when needed?also the Haynes diagram is far to confusing as it shows the left hand switch with indicators /horn /and dip switch the wiring seems to match up colourwise however they show the lighting switch which is separate with seven wires all different colours and the lighting switch on mine had three wires just doesn't make sense and this is all one unit on the left hand switch,however i have a spark now which i can turn off/kill with the ignition fo fingers crossed put some petrol in tomorrow and try fire the thing up , then come back to wiring the lights etc at a later date and also seem to need a voltage regulator as well (but will i need to put this in before i run it without lights?)you say about the lighting coil where is that?.cheers anyway for the advice . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhat250 Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 Lighting coil is on the stator plate,, usually Yellow . yellow/white, wires,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 Thats what I thought the kill switch wired off the diagram would do nothing if the ignition switch is on or off it should intrupt the ignition swith circut an on,,, both wires from the kill swith attached to the black white wire would make it work.So cut the B/W wire(What ever colour it is on the bike) and hook the 2 wires from the kill switch inbetween that way it will work.And the spark will stop with the kill switch. Yes you need a regulator or you will boil your battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pablo0874 Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 cheers again for that you say I need a regulator , but just at the moment im not gonna attach the battery it should run without shouldn't it just to see if the engines ok that's all,, that makes sense what youre saying about wiring the kill switch into the black white wire I just don't know why the Haynes says otherwise , im not sure I should trust the Haynes man to use for wiring now , wehats the best way to get a good diagram for the mk 1 that works ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 It happens in lots of wireing digrams,you just have to be smarter and look 2x at them,walk away and rethink it.People who only draw them diagram's on thier etcha sketch and don't work on the vehicle themself don't think about what they are drawing. Personaly I like the factory wireing diagram for any job but even then they can be wrong ( 1/2 modle years are the wrost),but that is very rare ,unlike haynes,and they are normaly very good, and the others who I would not trust. The rest of it looks solid,it's only the lighting circut/rectifing and regulating.So just think of it like water the switches are dams ,,open or closed and directing the flow in the right direction,from source to ground. and turn things of and on. Building a wireing harness is not hard all the math is done for you and all you need to do is hook up the parts,LMAO if you have a correct diagram. and the proper plugs.You got this far and have spark so you should be able to get the rest done. Just remember it is time consuming checking everything.2x before hooking it up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pablo0874 Posted November 9, 2014 Author Share Posted November 9, 2014 It happens in lots of wireing digrams,you just have to be smarter and look 2x at them,walk away and rethink it.People who only draw them diagram's on thier etcha sketch and don't work on the vehicle themself don't think about what they are drawing. Personaly I like the factory wireing diagram for any job but even then they can be wrong ( 1/2 modle years are the wrost),but that is very rare ,unlike haynes,and they are normaly very good, and the others who I would not trust. The rest of it looks solid,it's only the lighting circut/rectifing and regulating.So just think of it like water the switches are dams ,,open or closed and directing the flow in the right direction,from source to ground. and turn things of and on. Building a wireing harness is not hard all the math is done for you and all you need to do is hook up the parts,LMAO if you have a correct diagram. and the proper plugs.You got this far and have spark so you should be able to get the rest done. Just remember it is time consuming checking everything.2x before hooking it up.cheers for the encouragement there ,the latest is I hooked that circuit up and the kill switch as you suggested topped it up with some petrol two stroke and transmission oil (bear in mind I don't know wether or not this engine is anygood or the cdi works , apart from the small drip leak ive found from the left side of the petrol tank I kick it two maybe three times and wollop she bursts into life a noisy two stroke idles wuite high for some time I think while all the crap clears out from not being used in god knows how long , then I start it over and over again cant seem to get the idle normal but I guess that's another topic/subject it started im over the moon!!!just got to wait now to get more time to do more work on it , what I did find was that I pulled the choke out this slowed the idle speed down and pushing it back in speeded it up , oh well that's another trick when I get to it im sure I will be back as soon as I get the time off, cheers again dt 502001 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhat250 Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Brilliant, that's normal [ choke kills engine as it warms =floods] now back out the idle screw till revs drop, if they remain high , slacken throttle cable , .if this don't work , take out the slide,[ could be in wrong] ,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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