FJ1200, niggley little problems.

[wild foamy]

Hiya peeps.

I've had my FJ1200 ABS for almost a month now, and it's a cracking bike, reminds me of when that crazy texan guy was riding the nuclear bomb in the film Dr Strangelove.

But anyway, I've just changed the clutch master and slave cylinder seals, sorted out the dodgy wiring that made the headlight flicker and a few other bits and pieces, but theres a few things left to do;

Dashboard lamps, I'm sure only one of them is working because I can't see my fuel gauge, clock or speedo below 90mph at night, what size and type of bulb do I need?.

The speedometer face is loose within the dashboard, you can see it rattling around in there, how can I get the cluster out and secure the speedo face?

The Scottoiler... How the feck does it work and how do I adjust it?.

Fairing noise, especially around 3000rpm it's diabolical!

Help would be appreciated peeps

[slice]

These are the bulbs I replaced on mine Foams Speedo face is held on by 2 large screws at the bottom and 4 small screws at the top, be careful when you tighten them up as it's only plastic and you WILL snap the tails off if your not careful, try to look at the seating of the plastic cover to make sure it's seated properly before you tighten them up, as for getting the thing out you do this, undo the 2 lower inner fairing black panels 2 screws each undo the outer fairing air scoop and the inner 2 screws that are under that, then pull the fairing away from the bike and remove the inner panels DON'T try to remove the inners without easing the fairing or you will crack the panels, next you undo the 2 screws that hold the top part of the inner fairing in place then you have to remove the screen to get at the 2 screws under there that hold the front of the speedo surround, it's a reverse of this to put it all back together, Oh and one other thing spray a lube or penetrating oil on ALL of the threads before you even think about undoing the screws as they will strip if you don't! Hope that helps? Oh and it should take most of the morning to get it off, did for me anyway.

The other way is to remove the complete front fairing thats just 6 main bolts but they will be rusty as well so your best bet is to look in the manual and decide what's best for you.

Are you still interested in those 2 engine bars that I have?

[wild foamy]

Do you happen to know what nmodel those bulbs are? And Im currently in negotiation for a load of spares through the FJ Facebook page including engine bars, so I may not actually need them bud :/

[slice]

Ok mate no probs I will bung them on EBAY. The bulbs are

10 x T10 168 194 501 W5W High Power Car White 20 SMD LED Wedge Light Bulb Lamp.

Hope that helps?

[g1hsg]

Scottoiler - didn't get along with mine at all. The theory is that the vacuum generated by the carbs opens the outlet valve in the Scottoiler reservoir and gravity feeds the oil down to the chain so that lube is only applied whilst the engine is running. In reality I found on hot days the oil pissed out everywhere and on cold mornings it has the same consistency as treacle so constantly needed adjusting The flow rate can be adjusted by rotating the end cap of the reservoir where the inlet tubing from the carb enters. I was using their own brand oil as well. I believe they now do an electronic dual feed version which may be better. Would have been great had it worked.

[Ttaskmaster]

The Scottoiler... How the feck does it work and how do I adjust it?.

Come round and have a look at mine.

Bring yours and I'll help you fit it. Is pretty easy. I assume you have the standard V-System model?

Also, for the FJ you'll likely need one of these: http://www.scottoiler.com/uk/Spares-Adaptors/Mounting-Plate-Stainless-Steel/flypage.tpl.html

I assume your rear axle goes in from the right and the nut is on the left? If not, it needs swapping around.

NOTE: The flow rate on Scottoilers will need a bit of adjusting depending on whether you're doing slow town, nippy A-roads or high-speed/long distance motorway. It runs off your carb vacuum, so if your engine is revving high, you will draw more oil.

Do this and it does work properly!! (no offense to G1hsg, there)

Fairing noise, especially around 3000rpm it's diabolical!

Err... it's an FJ.... That's part of the charm!!

If you mean the rattling, you can pack it out with bits of kip mat foam, Foamz (ha ha, did you see what I did there?). Might be worth sticking some tinfoil over that or somesuch, to prevent melty.

[g1hsg]

Do this and it does work properly!! (no offense to G1hsg, there)

None taken ! I've still got mine so perhaps I should have persevered

[wild foamy]

It came fitted to the bike already so installing it isn't the worry, I'm using turbine oil instead of their own brand as it stays more stable throughout the temperature range and it's just what we had left over. It was more the fact of how much should it be lubricating and how often?

I'll have to get the fairings off anyway to change the tank but will definately look in to packing the gaps (Giggity)

[Ttaskmaster]

To get the tank off??!!

Oh, you mean the side fairing panels, rather than the main one?

Those are even easier - Mine came with soft foam already in place, but you can glue some on yourself. Again, feel free to come round and see mine (or persuade me to send some pics). I *believe* they have the original foam.

Scottoiler - Start with the bike warm and idling. You want 1-2 drips per minute.

Then go for a quick (10 min) ride and see how your chain looks. I usually keep mine quite high (around 70%), as I do a fair amount of town riding. It's a bit of trial and error to get the balance between right lube volume and avoiding too much oil fling, as well as depending on your riding style, etc etc, but you'll get there.