Chunche Posted June 14, 2014 Posted June 14, 2014 Hello all, I did a search on this topic but couldn't find a definitive answer. From what I've read there were different versions of the DT175 as far as wiring from the magneto to the CDI (a 5 wire and a 7 wire). Question is, could I simply switch the magneto unit between motors? A little backstory -- I was given a 1980 DT175 from a family member that had been sitting. It ended up needing a new cylinder/piston and instead I bought an entire running motor off ebay. After putting the motor in, I noticed it had less wires coming from the magneto than the motor I took out. Which led me to some google sluething and this website, where I've found some great info on the electrical systems for the DT175. So rather than purchasing a different CDI (which is what I think I would need?), I'm hoping I can combine the parts currently in my basement to get the electrical squared away. I hope that all makes sense, I'm fine with the mechanical components of engines but start talking electrical and I'm quickly lost.
Moderator Airhead Posted June 14, 2014 Moderator Posted June 14, 2014 yes just switch them all chunche, greetings by the way you seem to have bypassed our 'New Members' section?
Chunche Posted June 14, 2014 Author Posted June 14, 2014 Ah, yup I missed that section, remedied now . I'll give switching the magneto's tomorrow. Not sure if that's the only part I'll have to switch between the bikes, but I'm sure I'll figure it out when I get them apart.
Moderator Cynic Posted June 14, 2014 Moderator Posted June 14, 2014 It is the only part. Swap the electrics across from the blowm motor. Thats the base plate (stator) with the coils and the rotor.
Chunche Posted June 16, 2014 Author Posted June 16, 2014 Soooo I got the magneto and stator out of both, but the woodruff key is sheared in the motor I'm trying to use. So tomorrow night's project will be attempting to remove what's left of the sheared key and ordering a new one.
Moderator Airhead Posted June 16, 2014 Moderator Posted June 16, 2014 yeah a sheared key is quite common, caused by not tighnening the rotor nut to the correct spec, you'll need to get a grip of the rotor to tighten it properly
Chunche Posted June 17, 2014 Author Posted June 17, 2014 I'm going to pick up a torque wrench to make sure it's tightened correctly as well. I've needed one for a while anyways, this is a good excuse to buy a new tool
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