Diversion xj600s Keeps cutting out?

[Nick-skrike]

Hi Guys,

Can anyone give me a few ideas, l would be grateful. I got a Yamaha Diversion P reg xj600s thats not starting, My problems started the last time l was riding it home from work. It started up fine and l allowed it to warm up before riding it, when l got near to home, the bike just lossed power, l tryed to rev it as it was still going along but it still died. I Parked the bike ,on the side of the road with drivers going passed laughing, I looked inside the tank to make sure l had fuel which was about half a tank (did try res aswell). Tryed to restart it until battery died, thought to try to bump start it by going up a hill near by (pushing it up hill was no fun with on my bike gear on) still no good trying to bump it going down hill but was better as l didn't have to push it lol. Well l got it home after no luck and charged the battery up overnight only for it to died the next day before it got my bike started. This could of happened before however l was low on fuel before it cut out, l put it on res, started it up and went to the petrol station about a mile down the road and filled it up. It was abit rough to be honest on res tank and thought that was bits of crap in the bottom of tank. l took the tank off and emptyed it out on one of my off days and put new fuel in, new spark plugs and air filter about two months before all this happened again. Since then, l have taken apart the carbs (looking at a book as l go) as l thought no fuel was getting to the carbs and to see if anything was blocked and apart from the float bowls had a bit of gluely crap in at the top and two of the drain holes blocked, the carbs looked clean (will need to replace the carb boots when l get this going again, small tears on top lip of boots). The bike turns over fine and seam to want to fire up and has done just to cut out after starting a few secs later by the losse of power?, Looked at fuel pump it seams to be working (well it did pump out when l had the pipe off, bucket Quick lol) I'm not sure wear to look now, guessing elecs but not sure what l'm looking at. Coils, box, wires? The Kill button and side stand looks like they are working as the bike will not turn over with them on/down. If anyone can give me some pointers as l don't mind getting my hands dirty, you be a star, as l like do some ride out this year and meet other members on a ride-a-long. Many thanks for looking/reading and helpful ideas about this problem. Thanks Nick.

[Tommy xs]

Hi Nick this may not help but I had similar experience a while ago. It turned out to be petrol in the engine oil caused through the diaphragm in the petrol tap, or can be just cos you left it on res after you filled it up, try dropping the oil if it comes out like piss and there's more than there should be that's your problem having said that it could be a lot of things.

[mike1949]

A long shot but is the vent in the filler cap blocked, try starting it with the cap open.

[blackhat250]

Is there spark " and were the plugs wet when removed,,

[neversaydie]

Start with the simple things first

You need a good, charged up battery, at rest should read min 12.5volts to 13 volts

Start the bike, check the voltage across the pos and neg terminals on the battery with multimeter/voltmeter, 3000rpm should read approx 13 to14volts across pos and neg, increased revs above this shoudl max out at around 14.5 volts. Any more, theres a prob with the regulator

Any less than 13 to 14 at 3000rpm means theres a prob with the charging system

[BillyV]

I had one these, great bike. There are some earth issues that result in corroded connectors, there is one near the rear mudguard that presents like a broken solenoid when it breaks, as it always gets coved in rubbish this can happen in older bikes, worry he fixing and wrapping. It may be worth having a look if something is causing the drain it may be one of these.

Wil

[Nick-skrike]

Thanks Guys giving me some ideas, Tommy. was going to give it a oil change when it all went tits up on me, Was using SAE 20w40, hav'nt thought about looking into the oil itself yet however will have a closer look, l'll order a oil filter as it needs to be done. (would like to get the engine warm before doing this) As to the fuel tap, l always had it on Normal and never let it get to Res again after that 1st time. Have tryed Normal, Prime and Res, trying to restart it. Mike. never looked at the vent on the fuel filler cap to be honest, So l'll look at that asap, give it a go with cap open aswell. you never know lol. Blackhat. Yes there is a spark, tryed that with the spark plug on the head. the plugs was wet however only with fuel not oilly or dirty, a quick wipe and they was like new again. (did try again after lol and will recheck the plugs again to check the gaps again) just a Note the bike has never backfired even when trying to restart it, tryed full throttle and letting go. Neversaydie. The battery had been fully charged (it was also new by the way about 6 months old before this) before l kepted draining it by trying to start the bike and having to recharge it (guessing l get another one after for backup). The bike didn't bump start (not good at bumping bikes but did try) l not tryed again since cleaning the carbs (the bike is in the back garden so not a lot of room) Was thinking of bypassing the fuel pump with a pipe and coke bottle straight to the carbs, so this will bypass the fuel pump (would this be the same as full Prime on all the time?) Also be looking into the Earth leads and connections, no harm giving them a clean (well the one l can find lol) all the fuses look ok at the moment, will be putting a tester on them to see they are not live as l only checked the fuses was not blown. A friend said something about sticking valves? The bike HAS started just cut out again........... Well will keep trying a few things when off work and let you lot know. thanks for your time. Nick.

[Airhead]

take out all the plugs and leave it overnight for the fuel flooded engine to evaporate off

[Nick-skrike]

Thanks Wil, will try and find it. The relay assembly, is there a starter relay? as l think l read it somewhere but it didn't say which one the was. Nick

[Nick-skrike]

Thanks Airhead, got to recheck the plug gaps so may aswell do both. Nick

[Nick-skrike]

Hi guys, Update so far. l had a time tonight before it got to dark and took the cover off to see the wires (no tester yet just looked to see anything burned, losse or not working when they should be by giving them a giggle), as far as l can tell they all ok apart from one, which as l moved it seamed to kick up the fuel pump? could be a losses wire, not on the pump itself but inside the block it plugs into, will have a closer look when off again. l opened the petrol filler cap and had a look, could not see anything of a vent tube however seen what looked like 2 small black open blocks just by the hinge? is this it? well they was clear anyway. I bypassed the fuel pump with a clear tube straight from the tank (the tanks off by the way lol) onto the carb inlet as l thought the fuel pump may have a fault the comes and goes. l got all the air bubbles out of the tube and left the fuel filler cap open and tryed to start the bike with the help of some easy start down the carb tubes, The bike started after a few turns YIPeeeee, then cut out as before DOHhhhhhhhhhhhhhh. The bike fires up on the starting button however before l can Rev the bike it dies again ( it done this a few times before the battery went flat again. As far as l saw the clear fuel tube that l am using it didn't drop much of fuel, So l guess it worked in part. I'm starting to think that its still the carbs, something l didn't see when l took them a part (Yes l took them a part fully both sides however l didn't pull them a part to each of the 4 units and from what l saw of them they was clean inside after and nothing blocking one to the other that l saw) thinking aswell the TPS throttle position sensor maybe faultly (as l ruled out the fuel pump and tank by bypassing them with the pipe) l'll do a resistance test ASAP as l got a book to go by when off again. Is there a easy way to tell if the carbs themselfs are no good? it all looked good to me, all the parts that should move did and springs came back tight that needed to, didn't see anything worn out or bent. I'll take the reading of the TPS and see what that tells me and go on from there. Thanks to all that given there penny of thought and ideas to help. Hopefully l Will get her going again and be on two wheels soon and this will help someone else. Nick.

[Nick-skrike]

Hi all, just a quick note, the batery on charge so hav'nt tryed hard to start the bike as it stands as l didn't have a full battery yet, however did have a look at the TPS and found problems going by the Haynes Book, l found out the TPS setup is wrong, (like this when l bought the bike) by turning on the ignition and unplugging the TPS (this put it into test mode) l saw that the RPM showing 3000rpm when it should be 5000rpm so l will adjust that asap. As l need to adjust it anyway l will take it off and take it a table to get better readings, trying to holding different things and do the throttle half hang over the bike was fun Not. Hopefully have better reading and see if any dead spots later. Nick.

[Nick-skrike]

Yippeee............. MY BIKE GOT LIFE AGAIN, after learning how to use the Ohms reading the night before lol (lowest setting by the way....well on mine 20k), l used my new skill by doing some tests, I removed the TPS (throttle postion sensor) and checked it on a bench, l used a alan key as a throttle (0 to 60, 1 second lol) it was ok so l put it back on the carbs and adjusted it to the Book settings, (5000RPM) and as l had the tank, seat, airbox, and most of the covers off l thought to check the coils, relays aswell as the battery, all was fine by the way. Only the TPS setup was out on RPM when it was on the carbs before l cleaned them (Said l did this in the above text). I then recleaned the spark plug (well more of a wipe off) and checked the gaps, next l emptyed the float bowls on the carbs watching the fuel refill them using just the clear plastic pipe, l did this 2 times to each carb, l did notice the 2nd time the fuel seamed to drain out quicker. When l was all ready l sprayed some carb cleaner this time into the carbs and fired it up....... life and l did get some revs this time before cutting out, l started it again this time with carb cleaner at hand and sprayed the cleaner into the carbs as l was revving the throttle, l had to keep the revs above 2000rpm at first until the fuel in the pipe ran out. (did stop it just before) The last few things l did was flush out the fuel filter, pump the emptyed the petrol tank taking the tap off. (after all l just got the bike going again) I put it all back together so it looked like a bike again and not just bits. With fresh fuel in the tank started the bike, at first the bike was crappy Revs up and down however as l held the revs up the bike got better and better.

To be honest l don't know why it didn't restart after it cut out before, l left it over winter because of the bad weather, it may have been just one problem that turned into Ten lol, my problem was fuel and elec's.

(1) Fuel ran low had to put onto Res tank, this may have picked up crap in the bottom of tank that went into carbs.

(2) Filled up with some BAD Fuel.

(3) TPS set up was wrong, unable to fire at the right time.

(4) Blocked pipe fuel/air

(5) Just unluckly.

I still have to do a few things to get this bike onto the road again namely a new MOT, l will have to get the carbs tuned, oil change, also l got a sticking front brake to get unstuck hopefully very soon.

I hope this will help someone else having problems and give you ideas to fix it, All l can say to you is,,,, Don't give up... give it a go yourself, get a book and ask for HELP friends/online friends. The information there to teach yourself, you may learn something new, l did. Happy Biking open roads.