rzresurection Posted February 25, 2014 Author Posted February 25, 2014 Jug Studs? what be them then?? They are the studs that the cylinders slide onto Here's a pic for reference.
rzresurection Posted February 25, 2014 Author Posted February 25, 2014 That's okay. Prefer a fairing model. Still not a bad price really. For something of that age looks like in good condition. Me too! But mind you, there some good looking unfaired originals out there. Not mine, but this was what my first bike looked like. A beautiful, unfaired example.
dt502001 Posted February 25, 2014 Posted February 25, 2014 looks awsome with the new suspension ,like something they should be making now..But glad its your back I had my clipons down that low as well to fit the farring,too old for that now thats why I sold it. Nice work bench you made beats working on the floor,is it mocked up to check the pipes alignment? Gives me a idea about fixing them so they fit with the wider frame.
Calum122 Posted February 25, 2014 Posted February 25, 2014 Those wheels are nice. Would prefer if it had some panels. Looks so naked without it. Although to be fair probably better as a commuter. My first bike was full fairing and what a nightmare.
rzresurection Posted February 25, 2014 Author Posted February 25, 2014 looks awsome with the new suspension ,like something they should be making now..But glad its your back I had my clipons down that low as well to fit the farring,too old for that now thats why I sold it. Nice work bench you made beats working on the floor,is it mocked up to check the pipes alignment? Gives me a idea about fixing them so they fit with the wider frame. The new suspension is pretty cool. It will be nice to have preload and rebound adjustments. I'm very scared of the riding position. The clip ons were hard on the old wrists when I was in my 20's, scared to imagine what it will be like now. Even if it is horrible, I don't think I could sell this one. I've just had it too long. I'd be leery of selling it after having hacked the frame. That bench is cool - it's a heavy bitch though. Works well and didn't cost me a cent. Made it from materials that were being thrown out. The top is galvanized, so it won't rust. The pipes clear the swinger no problem. I may end up with some clearance issues when leaning over. I had to rotate the pipes slightly outwards, about the exhaust flange. I cut and remounted new hangers at the back end to suit the new position. Let me know yer thoughts on the pipe pos'n. Always like to hear other ideas
rzresurection Posted February 25, 2014 Author Posted February 25, 2014 Those wheels are nice. Would prefer if it had some panels. Looks so naked without it. Although to be fair probably better as a commuter. My first bike was full fairing and what a nightmare. The whole look of the bike works - at least for me. That's what the bikes looked like before the faired bikes came in ('85 for the RZ). There was a transition where they had a small 1/4 fairing up top and a little scoop at the bottom. 1
rzresurection Posted February 25, 2014 Author Posted February 25, 2014 Got some engine enamel on my bottom case half today. I should get my new shift drum and seals in this week. The tranny should go back together by next week. 1
feliks Posted February 26, 2014 Posted February 26, 2014 Oooooo! Gonna look a lot better painted up when you get it back together!
rzresurection Posted February 26, 2014 Author Posted February 26, 2014 Here's a mod that I did earlier on. I cut down the points on the shift star to make shifting easier. The pic will give you a comparison.
dt502001 Posted February 26, 2014 Posted February 26, 2014 If you have them fit then no big deal ,,my thought was to cut at the first weld and rotate and re weld,not the flange but the first weld of the stock pipe
dt502001 Posted February 26, 2014 Posted February 26, 2014 Here's a mod that I did earlier on. I cut down the points on the shift star to make shifting easier. The pic will give you a comparison. You have done your research well,,old tricks
dt502001 Posted February 26, 2014 Posted February 26, 2014 If you have gone this far I hope you blue printed you gear dogs and windows with a slight under cut
rzresurection Posted February 26, 2014 Author Posted February 26, 2014 If you have them fit then no big deal ,,my thought was to cut at the first weld and rotate and re weld,not the flange but the first weld of the stock pipe That was my first thought when looking at the clearance problem. I didn't want to go thru cutting and welding if there was a less labour intensive route. I'm still not 100% sure what I did was the best solution. I will find out when the bike gets ridden and no stress cracks occur.
rzresurection Posted February 26, 2014 Author Posted February 26, 2014 If you have gone this far I hope you blue printed you gear dogs and windows with a slight under cut You're gonna have to elaborate on this one for me.
rzresurection Posted February 27, 2014 Author Posted February 27, 2014 Finished a more robust version of my new rear, indicator mount. Cleaned up all the threaded holes on my cases. Cases are both painted now. I'm just sanding/polishing my barrels. Still too effin cold to work in the garage.
Noise Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 Very nice, wish we could have small number plates like that over here
dt502001 Posted March 2, 2014 Posted March 2, 2014 Blue ink the gear engaugement dogs ( the three fingers on the gear that slides) and see how well they contact the mating gears window by smacking them together befor the ink dries. To undercut is like a dove tail joint at a 5 degree angle,The idea is when the very tip of the dog gets into the window then they will pull themself together vertualy eliminating miss shifts, 2nd gear is the most important. Hope that clears it up.
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