Moderator Airhead Posted January 8, 2014 Moderator Posted January 8, 2014 yeah but now it may have dropped out of the sockets, could that be possible?
Moderator drewpy Posted January 8, 2014 Moderator Posted January 8, 2014 yeah but now it may have dropped out of the sockets, could that be possible? I don't think so. on the xs when I withdraw the rod, the BB can come with it and I just pop it back in. I can't believe Yam would design the engine, where the BB would drop into the gearbox when withdrawing the clutch rod
Moderator Airhead Posted January 8, 2014 Moderator Posted January 8, 2014 I don't think so. on the xs when I withdraw the rod, the BB can come with it and I just pop it back in. I can't believe Yam would design the engine, where the BB would drop into the gearbox when withdrawing the clutch rod I didnt mean into the gearbox drew, I meant into the basket
dt502001 Posted January 8, 2014 Posted January 8, 2014 Hes had the whole motor appart and moved around probably just fell out and rolled off and missed it when reassemebling.
Noise Posted January 9, 2014 Author Posted January 9, 2014 Nope I def put the BB in as I was concerned about losing it so that's not the problem.
dt502001 Posted January 9, 2014 Posted January 9, 2014 Well look at the diagram it's prety straight foward,cable pulls arm,arm pushes rod ,rod pushes bearing ,bearing pushes adjustable set screw. that releases the pressure plate. So what is it that you missed when assembeling it,set screw for pressure plate turn in till snugh and back off 1/8th of a turn and lock nut down the rest of the adjustment is made with the cable,there just isn't many varriables.
Moderator Cynic Posted January 9, 2014 Moderator Posted January 9, 2014 yes that looks like it, perhaps the over reaching has damaged the plain end of screw 28 There is a weird halfbreed set up like this on some dt's. If screw 28 is fudged you could be due some more tea and rollys before its sorted as they can be very reluctant to come out. The end of the screw wears through lack of lube/grease then bends letting the shaft lift, sometimes jamming it solid on the clutch pushrod. Careful with it, 50p screw (er?) could get pricey if you get angry.
dt502001 Posted January 9, 2014 Posted January 9, 2014 Interesting Cynic can't say I've seen that happen,but if it were jammed on the push rod would the clutch not be disengauged? as the cam of the actuating arm would be set in a position to hold the rod out,,, in effect holding the pressure plate off the clutch pack?
Noise Posted January 10, 2014 Author Posted January 10, 2014 Cheers for the info guys and i can thankfully say now that its fixed (sort of) i left my phone at work last night but if i had it i could have shown you the dodgy thing i did to fix it ha ha. well im building the bike on a carpenters work mate (step dad fully built his 883 Hardley on it so i know its strong) but as i couldn't get to the sump plug i tipped it over and lent it against the wall to get the oil on the other side of the motor so i didn't loose too much oil as i took the clutch cover off. Well just to make sure i did every thing to book i took off the pressure plate and the clutch plates and the BB and rod and put them back in as per the book, then adjusted the little rod / nut thingy and now the clutch lever returns as it should. But when i kick her into gear and pull the clutch (i see it working as left the cover off to watch it) then spin the prop shaft the clutch isn't disengaging. Would i be right in saying as the motor has been sitting for a while that this is just down to the plates being stuck together and she just needs to be rocked once built to free them up? had to do that every morning with my 125
Moderator Airhead Posted January 10, 2014 Moderator Posted January 10, 2014 yeah they'll be stuck together noise
Noise Posted January 10, 2014 Author Posted January 10, 2014 Thats what i thought, Ive gotta take them out again tho, (clutch plates) as when i read the manuel it said to fit the thick plate first then the other type and so on, but i didn't look at the pics and ive got them in the wrong order but its just a case of taking the cluster out and flipping it over. Just that ive now gotta risk the whole "lean the bike over on a colapsable work mate" again ha ha. Thanks for all your help again guys. Should def be on the road end of March / April
Moderator Airhead Posted January 10, 2014 Moderator Posted January 10, 2014 take note that sometimes the plain plates have to be fitted in a particular order, they have 'pips' on the outer edge that need equal spacing around the clutch circumference
Noise Posted January 10, 2014 Author Posted January 10, 2014 No IIRC these Ones don't have pips. Haynes book just says first fit plain disc then friction plate then plain etc finishing with a friction plate. The pain plates do have dimples on one side of there face but that's all they got.
dt502001 Posted January 10, 2014 Posted January 10, 2014 When installing the plain plates they have a sharp and rounded edge(mostlikely the dipel side) sharp goes in.
Noise Posted January 10, 2014 Author Posted January 10, 2014 Thank you all very much with all your help I've now got a fully working clutch. I ow you all a ginger nut biscuit. DT50 yours may get held up at export so best you buy your own. Loves to all 1
blackhat250 Posted January 12, 2014 Posted January 12, 2014 I ow you all a ginger nut biscuit. DT50 yours may get held up at export so best you buy your own. Noise" your [ginger] NUTS"
dt502001 Posted January 12, 2014 Posted January 12, 2014 Sorry Noise I only work for beer and burgers,so factoring the amount of time involved that would work out to a 1/20th of top bun and a cap full of beer or a sniff of your JD. the good stuff red label.LOL Glad you got it sorted.Keep at it .
Noise Posted January 13, 2014 Author Posted January 13, 2014 I ow you all a ginger nut biscuit. DT50 yours may get held up at export so best you buy your own. Noise" your [ginger] NUTS" No not my Ginger nuts, (they are burnt and are more brown than ginger)
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