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Posted

Ok just for those that don't know, bought myself an FJ1200 a couple of weeks ago and I am in the process of tearing it down and refurbing it. So far I have 4 sheared bolts that the PO has kindly left me and now I have added 2 more in the stripping process, they all are sitting flush to the various mounts and things so nothing to grab hold of and was trying to think of the best way to get the buggers out, remember these are as rusty as F**K so they are not going to come out easy, thought that I might cut them with a slot with the Dremel and use some heat and plus gas to get them softened up but other than that open to suggestions. I have a welder so could try welding a bolt to the stub ends but not sure about the strength of the various components that they are attached to plus there is A LOT of plastics and stuff that snuggles up nice and tight to one or two of them so have to bear that in mind as well. Any thoughts you might have or anything you have done yourself might get me out of this hole I am digging myself.

Just a couple of the places that I'm having trouble with, Front mudguard fork mounts X1, fairing frame work mountings X2, exhaust (by the barrels) clamp bolt X1 although they all seem pretty rotten to be honest so there might be more to come !! Not all of them by any means but that's enough to be going on with. Thanks all.

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Posted

Had the same on my gpz, personally I drilled them out, retapped the threads and used new bolts. Pain in the proverbial, and you need decent drill bits.

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Posted

take the plastics off!

yes you'll shear more bolts, but then you can get to weld a nut over the flush bolts and cool a little bit, then undo.

done it loads of times no issues

Posted

Remeber heat is your friend when trying to remove rusty bolts, if there are studs broken off the try welding a nut onto

whats left of the stud then turn left and right in short motions, you may need 6 or 10 attempts before the stud comes out.

Done this loads of time and only had to drill a few stuborn ones out, left had drill bits are good as well.

TTB

  • Like 1
Posted

Thank you all will try those out and see what happens, this thing is becoming a right cow!!!

Posted

You can also buy (I think DeWalt do them) special bits which you use on reverse and they bite into the bolt and (hopefully) unscrew them.

Posted

The heat from the welding process always seems to work,I have had some success with easyouts BUT if they break off you will be buggered..

  • Like 1
Posted

not got a welder myself but in the past I've used the whack it with a hammer Technic! sounds desperate but can work, it just shock's the alloy a bit so you can get mole grips on or as you say cut a slot in it

  • Like 1
Posted

Tommy I like your style, when in doubt "HIT IT" works for me !! Actually tried that already but it's steel on steel unfortunately so only plus gas and heat will help with most of them, got 2 of the exhaust nut's off today (26th) and with some finger crossing might get them all off but they are rusted to F*** so difficult to grip and the welder just spits out crap and has nothing to hold on to (bugger!!) onward and upward, I do like other peoples neglect, makes my life so much more interesting!!!!

Posted

Keep at it Slice, I'm sure you'll get there! minus a bit of skin from your knuckle's :headbang:

Edit if you get stuck! pm Grouch, see if he'll come round and snap it off for you

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks Tommy always a great deal of useful information (NOT) :biglaugha: Grouch is far to busy trying not to break his own bike to bother with mine !! :eusa_whistle:

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