TwinJet1077 Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 So here is my problem. After removing the clutch basket and gaining access to the shift assembly I found the adjustment screw was loose. So I tightened it down all the way and began shifting the bike and backing the screw out a bit at a time. After shifting the bike maybe three times it now refuses to shift at all. At first I noticed that the rods in the shift drum would end up only being rotated part way, Thus getting stuck out of reach of the shift armature. Now, even though the rods are in proper position, the drum just refuses to move. It appears to be stuck in neutral as the tire spins freely,.Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YPVS TONE Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 Seem to remember what you have to do is as you screw in or out the eccentric screw at the bottom of your photo you should see the arm that rests on the selector drum at the top of your photo move forward or back. What you have to do is screw in or out the eccentric screw until the distance between the "Hooks" on the arm and the pins in the selector drum are an equal amount right and left. Once done tighten the locknut and bend over tab washer if fitted onto nut. Sounds like you've screwed the screw in to far and it's only pulling the selector drum one way. Hope this makes sense. Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted December 3, 2013 Moderator Share Posted December 3, 2013 +1 I think it needs to be set in a specific gear, 1st I think. Later models have punch marks on the drum to align it accurately. When you say the rear wheel spins you may be between gears. Opperate the selector drum directly to be sure you are in gear or your adjustments will be for nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwinJet1077 Posted December 3, 2013 Author Share Posted December 3, 2013 Yea this all makes sense. Kinda what i figured, I tried moving the drum manually but it really didn't want to budge. I was afraid something was messed up in the gear box. Anyways I will try this again and see if I can get it into first. I'll post an update after class tonight. Thanks guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted December 3, 2013 Moderator Share Posted December 3, 2013 you will find it easier if you turn the gearbox output shaft by hand as you are attempting to change gear, if you think about it...this is what would be happening when the bike was driven. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YPVS TONE Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 Managed to find a copy of the Clymer Manual that covers the YL1 and it says to do the above adjustment in either second, third or fourth gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhat250 Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 To shift it into required gear,, lift the pawl. [ claw] and use phillips driver on screw on drum end . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwinJet1077 Posted December 4, 2013 Author Share Posted December 4, 2013 Ok, So update here... Put the inner part of the clutch basket on the shaft and was able to shift again by turning it manually like suggested. Got her into 2nd and adjusted the distance between the hooks to be even on both sides. Unfortunately there is no washer with tab to bend and I don't see the typical set up for such a lock i.e. a slot on the case to hold the lock washer in place. Anyways if I crank it down I'm hoping it won't come loose again. It's not under any real stress anyways. I'll get it all back together and see what happens! Thanks again! P.S. YPVS TONE, where did you find the manual? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YPVS TONE Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 Hi Twinjet1077 Just checked on a parts list for the YL1 and yes your right it doesn't show a lock washer fitted like some of the other models. Don't go made when you "crank" it down as remember the case is only alloy and you may pull the thread out. I have sent you a personal message ref manual, just click on the envelope at the top of the page after you sign in. Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwinJet1077 Posted December 10, 2013 Author Share Posted December 10, 2013 Okay so everything back together and test ran.. everything was great at first... everything is much smoother, better response and cleaner shifting.. no longer getting stuck in neutral. But at a certain point it started shifting back into neutral from 3rd to fourth again... One thing I did notice was that when I took the clutch apart the pressure plates and disks were stuck together...It took considerable force to separate them all. Could this have something to do with going all the way back to neutral from 3rd? Again, thanks for input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhat250 Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 No" see the drum [ top of picture] the pawl [ claw] turns drum into gear, there is a spring [ top-most in pic] this should be attached to a small lever , THIS lever holds drum from rolling. = ends between gears,,, if still connected " [spring] it must be weak,,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted December 20, 2013 Moderator Share Posted December 20, 2013 Okay so everything back together and test ran.. everything was great at first... everything is much smoother, better response and cleaner shifting.. no longer getting stuck in neutral. But at a certain point it started shifting back into neutral from 3rd to fourth again... One thing I did notice was that when I took the clutch apart the pressure plates and disks were stuck together...It took considerable force to separate them all. Could this have something to do with going all the way back to neutral from 3rd? Again, thanks for input. The clutch is normal. In use the plates move sideways on each other breaking the stiction an allowing them to separate. A bike gearbox cannot go from 3rd to neutral, you will be between gears. I wonder if the detent spring has weakend. That with a bit of wear on 3rd gear dogs would cause troubles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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