feliks Posted February 15, 2014 Author Share Posted February 15, 2014 I'm not too concerned with going over 200km/h anyway.... I think I would benefit more from low end acceleration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 3 up on the rear is the same as 1 down on the front more or less go to gearcaculator.com and plug in the info then you will know .The fz isnt strong enough to pull red line in top gear anyway unless you have a few miles to hold it WFO.The 3 up will make it whellie nicer/easier and get you up to speed quicker.The nice part is if it dosent use up all the chain you can add 1 tooth to the front to mix and match the gearing or drop 1 from the front and have alot quicker bike in the 1/4mile. Stickers are a neat touch.look good on the flat black,I would be thinking the lowers shoud get the same treatment like the stock striping in flat black over gloss black. I realy dont have anymore tips for you about using the gun,its one of thoes things that you just have to play with,it's more in your eye and being able to tell when it to thin or thick and that 5 lighter coats is better that 2 heavy.Haveing the room at different temps/humidity changes the whole game,Oh 1 thing if you mixing your own hardner/thinner buy a piant stick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted February 15, 2014 Author Share Posted February 15, 2014 Found a nice gearing calculator: http://www.gearingcommander.com/ Input all of the factory settings from my manual then edited the rear sprocket for some number comparisons... I'll lose just a little over 10km/h off the top end by switching to a 49 tooth rear sprocket over the stock 46. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted February 15, 2014 Author Share Posted February 15, 2014 3 up on the rear is the same as 1 down on the front more or less go to gearcaculator.com and plug in the info then you will know .The fz isnt strong enough to pull red line in top gear anyway unless you have a few miles to hold it WFO.The 3 up will make it whellie nicer/easier and get you up to speed quicker.The nice part is if it dosent use up all the chain you can add 1 tooth to the front to mix and match the gearing or drop 1 from the front and have alot quicker bike in the 1/4mile. Stickers are a neat touch.look good on the flat black,I would be thinking the lowers shoud get the same treatment like the stock striping in flat black over gloss black. I realy dont have anymore tips for you about using the gun,its one of thoes things that you just have to play with,it's more in your eye and being able to tell when it to thin or thick and that 5 lighter coats is better that 2 heavy.Haveing the room at different temps/humidity changes the whole game,Oh 1 thing if you mixing your own hardner/thinner buy a piant stick Haha I was already on another calculator...great minds think alike. Yeah I was thinking about doing a flat black under the bottom decals too, not going with a factory stripe since I don't have the whole side piece on anymore but I have some other ideas floating in my head that I'm going to try out. Don't want to reveal them until it's done though. Not too worried about paint, there are more than enough videos on youtube to learn from and I've had quite a bit of experience with spray cans, which I think would be tougher to get a nicer finish with so I'm pretty confident about this part! We'll see how it turns out... lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noise Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 She's coming on lovely man, I really like them stickers, almost tempted to get a sporty bike and street fighter it after reading through these projects as well as rzresurrection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted February 16, 2014 Author Share Posted February 16, 2014 DO IT! You won't regret it... Bought an automotive compression tester today and did a check after letting the engine warm up for about 5-10 minutes. Even compression readings across all cylinders which is an excellent sign, I'm not worried that they read low right now I'm just happy they're all even. This compression tester from Crappy Tire is notorious for low readings but as long as I can get consistency with different cylinders that's good enough for my purposes. I have heard automotive compression testers are calibrated differently than motorcycle testers, but I could be mistaken... and I need a break in period so the rings can seat before I get a final reading, but I wanted to see what my baseline was at so I had something to compare with after break in, so here it is! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rzresurection Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 She's coming on lovely man, I really like them stickers, almost tempted to get a sporty bike and street fighter it after reading through these projects as well as rzresurrection. Get an old classic like Feliks and I have. Relatively easy to work with and modify if so desired. Plus, it's always great to keep these classics on the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rzresurection Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 Looks pretty good all across the board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted February 17, 2014 Author Share Posted February 17, 2014 Hmmm I didn't hold the throttle open when I did the compression test... is that going to make a significant difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rzresurection Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 Nope. The only time you get pressure is on the compression stroke - all valves are closed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted February 17, 2014 Author Share Posted February 17, 2014 I think the point is to open the butterfly valves in the carbs, to allow air in, to be compressed..... but I'm not sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rzresurection Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 It'll probably take you more cranks to reach the max pressure if you have the butterfly's closed. Do a test for comparison. I'll put money on no difference in pressure open vs closed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noise Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 Um, im not too sure, never done a compression test my self but if you think about it as the piston draws down it pulls in air like your lungs and asit pushes up the inlet valve shuts thus making an air tight seal (what your testing) and the piston comes back up and compresses the air ready for the big boom. If the butterfly is closed its like having the bike on tick over so your not getting the maximum air in the cylinder so i would guess that the reading on the gauge would be less as the pressure wouldn't be enough to push the needle up the gauge. But i've been wrong before Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted February 17, 2014 Moderator Share Posted February 17, 2014 your right Noise, butterflys do need to be open and battery fully charged Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted February 17, 2014 Author Share Posted February 17, 2014 Ok I'll do another test today with the butterflies open and see if there's a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Hey remember your not breaking in much just re seating the rings and valves. Do yourself a favor and re check the valve clearance so you don't whipe out a cam lobe and recheck the head bolt torque. Now you have run the motor a few times it shouldn't change much after now it's been heated and cooled 3 x .The valves were stretched all ready so they just need to slap the seat a few times and after heating you head( for paint) I would be worried they shifted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 Stop worrying! Since the compression is the exact same across the board I highly doubt any damage was caused by the heating for paint...if it did it managed to damage everything exactly the same and I refuse to believe that! Remember this is a crappy tire gauge, who knows how accurate it is (the reading of 100 for it could very well be 150 for a good tester). I've already re-torqued the head bolts a week ago after letting it heat and cool, a couple needed a bit more torque but the others were fine, I'll check them again once I have a chance to run the bike on the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 Wow so the throttle open really should make a difference... according to this video. Going to heat the bike up while I put some burgers on the BBQ for lunch and see what she reads when the throttle is opened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 Wide open throttle compression test yielded much higher readings! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted February 18, 2014 Moderator Share Posted February 18, 2014 you see! much better and when the valves bed in even higher Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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