January 16, 201411 yr Moderator did you take out the O rings where the case studs go through? need changing anyway
January 16, 201411 yr Author Yeah all O-rings and gaskets are being replaced - they've discontinued the rear tensioner gasket though so I guess I have to make one...that's bullshit! I fixed the cylinders too, when I took em out of the oven I flipped them over and hear them slide down into place, before I could even press on them they were exactly where they were supposed to be, nice and level. Now I know how to change them in the future! lol Paint turned out wicked on the engine, apparently VHT and Duplicolor are now owned by the same company too...so any debate on their engine paint or which is better, is irrelevant now! I am torn between sanding the sides of the fins or leaving them all black... I think it looks really sharp with the aluminum showing on the end of the fin but then again, with an all black bike...and all black engine is going to look stealthy..... decisions decisions!
January 16, 201411 yr LMAO I was to busy to respond to your texts glad you figured out how to get the sleeves back in.Didnt even read them till you had it fixed. Bet you never thought you would learn how to change sleves,or would have even attempted it afew months ago before meeting this bunch. If you had said for hand that you need to bake the paint at that temp for that long would have for warned you,what kinda paint did you get?
January 16, 201411 yr Author Haha yeah really, no way I would have tried any of this shit! But now that I've done it and got my hands dirty, it's really not that hard, just really, really time consuming! For a newbie with no tools anyway.... lol I used duplicolor engine enamel. Here's the head, fresh outta the oven! Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr
January 16, 201411 yr haha was typeing when you posted you last. That paint flows out nice when heated and should last as long as the original,did a eng???? 10 yrs ago for a guy who never get's his bike dirty and it still looks great and that was a fj 1100/1400 kit motor. Wise move on your part to run outside right after spraying the primer,thats nasty shit you would still have a head ache from it .
January 16, 201411 yr Now you have to clean the threads of the exhaust studs,that will tell you how hard the paint is
January 17, 201411 yr Author I put a nut on the stud after I primed it, just to see if there was going to be a problem...didn't strip any of the primer off. I'll let you know about the paint! Do I HAVE to clean the threads? And for what reason? Just wondering....
January 17, 201411 yr You will probably have to ..to get the nut back on now the paint should make it bigger ,change the thread pitch and ect...If not they wer pretty rotten to begin with if you can spin a nut on.
January 17, 201411 yr Author Nut went on easy enough....stripped a little of the paint off when I tightened it up.
January 17, 201411 yr Author PPS. The wife didn't even smell paint in the house when she got home. 4 hours of baking in the oven.... I'm good. It was FREEZING in here with the windows open all day airing the place out though.
January 17, 201411 yr Author Well no parts from Yamaha yet....they have some of them, but they're waiting on the base crankcase gasket which I need first to put it back together....so...now I play the waiting game. In the meantime, I have some bodywork to do, the tail cowl is just a flimsy piece of plastic, with some plastic tabs to hold it on, I don't trust this at 200km/h.... (not that you should be going that fast... :D ) - SO, I'm going to reinforce the inside of it with fiberglass. First I'm going to scuff up the plastic with some rough grit sandpaper and then use some florists green foam to shape the inside, to make it sit nicely over top of the bars on the bike. To do this, I'm just going to put the foam under the cowl and press it onto the bike, then shave off a little more to allow for the fiberglass resin. Then fiberglass the foam right into the cowl! I'll post some pictures once I start...it's easier than explaining.
January 17, 201411 yr Author So here's the front "bracket" - which will be made of fiberglass. This is going to slide in behind the seat, and will be held in by the fact it can't move backwards once the bolts are in the back. Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr I also upgraded the hardware from the tiny screws and clips to some proper fasteners and bolts. Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr
January 17, 201411 yr Author Here's how I mounted the retainers in there... used some epoxy in behind so they're nice and solid. Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr Cut the fiberglass mat to shape and then laid it on some plastic wrap, and then soaked it in epoxy resin and applied to the cowl with a brush. This thing will be solid now! Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr I'll be putting the green foam piece in after this cures, as I still have a bit of tweaking to do it.
January 18, 201411 yr Author So with a little bit of work my $38 cheap plastic cowl has turned into a quality fiberglass piece that will last for years and years! Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr
January 19, 201411 yr Author Fixing the fairings up better than they were today...the cracks I had "fixed" originally came back through so this time I'm trying a different technique. First one was melting cable ties back into the crack, and then smoothing with spot putty. This time... I'm using ABS glue mixed with ABS shavings. This ABS glue is just acetone/abs mixed with a few other chemicals that will bond the ABS cracks in my fairings, as well as create new ABS plastic wherever it's laid. So once this is dry, I'll give it another layer or two, so it's higher than the surrounding area and then once it's all dry I'll hit it with my D/A sander to smooth everything out before primer and paint! Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr
January 19, 201411 yr Author So far it's working out well... the first layer dried solid already, but is still flexible. I'll be sure to post some completed pictures once I get the paint done! I was looking into "Plastifix" but after some research, it's just acetone and abs powder.... nothing more. Can't believe how much they charge people for it...
January 19, 201411 yr Moderator So far it's working out well... the first layer dried solid already, but is still flexible. I'll be sure to post some completed pictures once I get the paint done! I was looking into "Plastifix" but after some research, it's just acetone and abs powder.... nothing more. Can't believe how much they charge people for it... sounds like a case for using the liquidiser
January 19, 201411 yr Author lol! I thought about it...but the wife would actually kill me for that one.... there are only so many things I can get away with haha
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