marker the dots on the cam sprockets I cant see the intake you have 19 pins from sprocket to sprocket so that's right and if you rotate the motort to line up at tdc then the dots on each sprocket are 19 pins appart then its right.

I thinkk I can see the exhaust dot but not sure

So the angles of the lobes are CORRECT right now (it's at TDC) they just look like they need to rotate one more sprocket tooth. Maybe I'm crazy!

No dont worry about what they look like just find the dots on the sprockets and as long as they are the last one in the chain intake and firt one on exhaust and it at tdc the you got it right.

It's at TDC (#2 and #3 pistons), here's the marks:

Way off the dots should be as I said above the first and last on the chain 19 pins appart,put the exhauts cam right then set the intake so it can rotate back 1 tooth so when you put the tensionre in it rotates it into positoin

Yeah, my cams are on upside down, should be rotated a full 180 degrees.... lol

It's my first day.

Woooo I think Ive got it! The timing marks still don't line up as you said they should....am I doing something wrong or is this just setup different? It looks exactly how it was before disassembly (checked previous pictures), so I think I'm safe.... got 15 links between sprockets which I had before disassembly as well. This is sitting at TDC, everything looks good to me...but what do you guys think?? I'm waiting on my valve cover gasket to get here (they sent the wrong one) so I can't put the top on yet anyway, so I'm in no rush! Want to get it right!

Internet fixing at it worst ,total break down in communication............------------.........-----------

So I did pretty good just fuckin eyeballin it eh?? LOL

When I FINALLY found the damn marks on the camshaft itself (I was looking at the sprocket) I noticed they were lined up perfect at TDC with the arrows on the caps.

GREAT SUCCESS! I LIKE!

So now, I check for valve clearance and then wait for my valve cover gasket before reassembly. Woooooo.

Next on the list now....

Fairings, chain, powder coat rims, and new tires.

Then I'll have a brand new 1986 bike! lol

Here are the proper camshaft marks for a 1986 FZ600 in case anyone wanted to know...

Fuck I can't wait for summer!! This is going to be a spectacular year, in terms of life and enjoyment, I think.... being my first full season riding. I only started late September last year.... oh I can't wait!!

nice, are those arrows on the cam caps supposed to point to the cam sprockets?

Yeah they just point in the direction they go from 1 - 4, in respect to the cylinders/pistons and stuff.

Here's my measured valve clearance...posting here for reference....they're all out of spec except for I4

nice, are those arrows on the cam caps supposed to point to the cam sprockets?

Drew the valve cover wont fit on if they are on wrong.And the off set of the bolt hole would be hitting the sprocket mount if on the other way around.

Clean the assembly lube off to measure them

Now did the feller gauge just slide in ? to get these measurments? what is the bigest feeler gauge you can get in all of them or are these measurment the bigest you could fit in,the feeler gauge should have resistance not just slide in easy.

Ok you get to play with you mic now and caulator ,you know how muck thinner you need for shims on each so go for loose on the setting as valve will tighten up over time not get looser.

all yours are now tight from re grinding the valves so hopefully you have some thinner ones they come in different thicknesses by .002 so you can mix and match them.example you might be able to take 1 from exhaust to fit in the intake and vise vs.

HAHAHA you will be a pro at R&R cams and timming them

Yeah that was the biggest gauge that could fit in...the next one up would not go in, I didn't try to force them in or anything but you could feel it wasn't going to go in.

Yup got some more work to do now! Woo hoo!

I did cams late last year and managed to swap an ex for an inlet and just purchased one shim.

you don't get a lot of thickness's so yam gives a range for the gap

also when the head settles and you re torque, guess what?

you do them again

Thats why I am saying set them to the loose side,your valves are old and pre stressed so it should work better,you just need to slap the valve against the seat a few hundred thousand time's and it will be fully seated again. And when you re check them hopefully they will all still be in spec.

Come to think about this you heated the barrels hot enough to release the sleeves, when you baked the cylinder head the valve seat's may have shifted as well But as all you clearnce's are tighter I would think it's all ok.Had they shifted I would expect them to be very loose measurments.

Drewpy I've got a bunch of extra shims from my parts engine too - hopefully I've got what I need, if not I may need to order a couple. Not a big deal to do while it's out at least!

Yeah hopefully Flip!

Did some calculating according to my manuals chart, then some swapping between a couple engines, and I only need 3 shims now! Woo!

i'm going to take some of the extra shims I've got down to the Yamaha dealer and see if they'll swap em for the ones I need.